upgrading regulator

[oldmusclelover]

No you want the relay in the "run."

so whatever color IGN1 (usually dark blue) where it comes out of the bulkhead, that is 12V in "run" position of key

Electrically cut that, use the bulkhead end coming from interior to trigger a relay. Feed the relay through a fuse/ breaker off the start relay big stud (battery) and take the engine harness end of the cut blue and connect that to the load contact of the relay

"How it works." When there is voltage drop in that circuit, the feed going to the VR power (IGN terminal) is also the SENSE wire. It senses voltage is low, and ramps up the alternator until that point (the VR ign terminal) is 14V. "Whatever" the voltage drop is through that circuit to the battery, resistance in that path causes drop there at the VR. So now it is 14, but the battery, which is isolated by the drop, is now seeing 14 + whatever the drop reading is

again, forgive my ignorance. how do I decipher IGN1? coming from the interior, so I assume it is not the yellow off the starter relay. you say the 12 volt run position of key, would this be the wire going to the ballast resistor? if so, just replace that with new packard clip, so it's fresh, and that is brown on my schematic and car. I'm confused.....again, LOL. I thought the regulator was supposed to tell the alternator to amp up with load? again, appreciate your time/knowledge/and most of all.....patience.

 

[67Dart273]

No brown should be IGN2. That is the way they are normally labled at the switch. Let me dig up the factory diagram............

You say you have a 67?

OK lol, I forgot they didn't label those wires ign1/ ign2 back then. J2/ J3, here is right out of "the book"

The one that is "run" is "N" down at bottom left in the bulkhead connector J2-16DBL is the wire, this goes right through to the ignition switch. J2 is the run circuit. J2 does not "stand for" anything it is just a number, but that is the number they use for that wire

 

[67Dart273]

The ignition switch is really very simple

J1, coming in from bottom, is a big no12 red and is hot at all times. This is UNFUSED power coming in to the switch FROM the big welded splice in the black ammeter wire

Q2, at bottom left is a big no12 black and feeds off to the accessory buss in the fuse panel. This is hot both in "run" and in "accessory"

J2 is the Dark BLue "run" or IGN1 on some diagrams. This is hot ONLY in run and supplies all your underhood "stuff" in the run position

J3 is the BROWN this is the coil resistor bypass for starting and is hot ONLY in start. This contact is a SEPARATE SWITCH from the start contact.........

S2 is the yellow "start" wire going out to the start relay, and like J3, above, is also hot ONLY in start

 

[oldmusclelover]

No brown should be IGN2. That is the way they are normally labled at the switch. Let me dig up the factory diagram............

You say you have a 67?

OK lol, I forgot they didn't label those wires ign1/ ign2 back then. J2/ J3, here is right out of "the book"

View attachment 1715218505

The one that is "run" is "N" down at bottom left in the bulkhead connector J2-16DBL is the wire, this goes right through to the ignition switch. J2 is the run circuit. J2 does not "stand for" anything it is just a number, but that is the number they use for that wire

ahh, didn't see it at first, missed the splice and only saw the brake lamp. so, I put a relay in between the bulkhead and the ballast resistor?

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

OP. You need to buy the book called
"Chrysler performance upgrades"Has very easy yet detailed wiring illustration for ign and charging system.

 

[MoparLeo]

The purpose of the Dielectric grease is to seal the connection from moisture and air. Oxidation/corrosion requires both. Read the specs here to get a better idea.
Dielectric Grease for Sealing Electrical Connections | Waytek, Inc.

 

[oldmusclelover]

OP. You need to buy the book called
"Chrysler performance upgrades"Has very easy yet detailed wiring illustration for ign and charging system.[/QUOT

OP. You need to buy the book called
"Chrysler performance upgrades"Has very easy yet detailed wiring illustration for ign and charging system.

just ordered, thanks for the recommendation.

 

[oldmusclelover]

OK Gentlemen, here's where it seems to go bad. new alternator, new regulator (switched from single field to dual), added wire from second field to ballast run side (with IGN1, dark blue with laser). thought maybe with the bad results I had a bad battery, so I bought new. 700 CCA.
seem to have 'zero' drop from battery to black wire at alt (unhooked, 12.57/12.57).
turn key to 'run' position, has a .07 drop
12.48 at battery, w/key in 'run' position: 12.42 battery, 11.92 at run/IGN1 side of ballast
with those numbers, 10.73 at ballast 'start' side while cranking.

now, with engine running:
12.38 at battery (12.10 when fan kicks in), 12.30 at alternator, 12.10 at ballast, 9.8 at coil (9.56 w/fan running). respectively, the negative side of the coil goes from 4.75 to 2.9 w/fan.
red from starter relay was 12.29 at bulkhead, couldn't check black as I had to put a butt connector in place (bulkhead wouldn't hold clips, burnt). relay numbers stay solid with battery.
with old battery, the reading at battery while running was 12.16, and at alternator 12.10
I know the new parts could be bad, but this is the same problem I was having with the lower output single field alternator, but now that I have done all the work of changing out bad wires, cleaning again, it's worse.
new alternator is shows the individual test at shop at idle: 72, cruise: 85, top end: 108.
any help appreciated, in any shape or form. thanks again all

had to edit because of another check, here's what I found. @1500 rpms, checked negative terminal to alternator-zero, to block-zero, but when I went to the ground strap from engine to firewall-16 volts! now, the ECU is bolted to the firewall WITH the ground strap on it. is that a problem? should I change that? is that causing the problem? could the ECU unit be bad? because of this?
thanks again

 

[oldmusclelover]

The ignition switch is really very simple

View attachment 1715218506

J1, coming in from bottom, is a big no12 red and is hot at all times. This is UNFUSED power coming in to the switch FROM the big welded splice in the black ammeter wire

Q2, at bottom left is a big no12 black and feeds off to the accessory buss in the fuse panel. This is hot both in "run" and in "accessory"

J2 is the Dark BLue "run" or IGN1 on some diagrams. This is hot ONLY in run and supplies all your underhood "stuff" in the run position

J3 is the BROWN this is the coil resistor bypass for starting and is hot ONLY in start. This contact is a SEPARATE SWITCH from the start contact.........

S2 is the yellow "start" wire going out to the start relay, and like J3, above, is also hot ONLY in start

question sir: is it alright to tap into the blue "run" wire? I found the tach and the volt/oil/temp gauges are tapped into this wire. I ask because I am still having problems after finishing the wiring under the hood.