using drum MC on front disc setup

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Muscley MOPAR

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is there any reason why i couldnt use my drum brake MC on my swaped over front disc setup on my 69 cuda
 
I remember hearing something about having to use the disc style proportioning valve to do it.
I'm sure someone who knows for sure will chime in.
 
Easy. The later (dual) drum units normally have what is called a residual pressure valve built into each line fitting. This is the brass seat you see when you remove the line. You can find a small sheet metal screw, thread in there, and then pull out with a claw hammer. Remove everything behind it, then reinstall the brass seat. Leave the one in for drums. Normally, the rear line goes to front brakes, front line goes to rear (drum) brakes

master.jpg
 
Get the right MC...We're talking brakes here...No time to skimp.
 
The reservoir is to small to supply the calipers with fluid. You will run out very quick. And if you add fluid the next time you put pads on you will push it out the top.

Rule of thumb is when the master is low on the big/rear side you need pads. A drum brake master will run out before the pads are worn.

Newer style masters share the reservoirs and is what I used to replace my original disc Master in pic below
 

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Disc brake master cylinders have a larger piston in them , thus they push more fluid.

You can use a disk master cylinder on a drum car but not the other way around.

Buy a new mastecylinder , my advice would be to buy the adapter plate and use one with a plastic resivoir, late 70's volare or aspen is what I used
 
Thanks for the info i kinda figured the reservoir and mc insides would be quite a bit smaller i planed on getting a decent MC im just using it to drive it in nd out of my garage for body work and engine swap and all that stuff....where and what do i need for a MC adapter?
 
For a manual disc/drum setup use a MC from an early 90's B1500 van or similar vehicle. Correct bore size and cheap at RockAuto! That's what I use works great on the Duster and previous two A body's 67 Dart and 71 Scamp. Lighter than the old junk too! You do need the adapter as mentioned above.

Got mine (and all this info) from Ehrenberg and it works great. No pwr brakes needed! E-berg as the adapters for sale cheaper than the MP one from Summit too.....check his ebay listings or email him.

As well if your converting from power to manual you'll need a manual brake pushrod! They aren't too hard to fin here on FABO or Moparts etc....

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the info i kinda figured the reservoir and mc insides would be quite a bit smaller i planed on getting a decent MC im just using it to drive it in nd out of my garage for body work and engine swap and all that stuff....where and what do i need for a MC adapter?

I've used both early and late style MC's and honestly the only difference is the weight of them. Both function about the same.For what your doing, I see no need for you to switch over to the late model MC.

Go down to your local Oreilly,Pepboy,etc and pick up a disc brake MC from a 73 Dart. You can buy new or rebuilt,it's up to you. Slap it on and away you go.
 
Sadly, the parts store master cylinders are often drum brake MC's with one residual valve removed. In other words you don't get the casting with the larger resevior. Does it work? Sure. I'm using one right now. Ideal? No. OldManMopar explained the reasons Chrysler didn't do it that way..
 
Sadly, the parts store master cylinders are often drum brake MC's with one residual valve removed. In other words you don't get the casting with the larger resevior. Does it work? Sure. I'm using one right now. Ideal? No. OldManMopar explained the reasons Chrysler didn't do it that way..

True, a lot of the parts listings fail to discriminate correctly between the drum and disk MCs, particularly for the years 67-69. But all A, B and E body MCs are bolt-in interchangeable, so you can certainly find the right big&little reservoir type, just by trying different years and models.
 
I simply have not found the small reservoir to be that big a deal. Yes, you might have to add fluid in the next 5 years, LOL. Yes, when you change pads you might have to remove a little bit.

Between myself and friends, not all Mopars, we've done at least 4 conversions this way, and find this to be less than a minor inconvenience

Now, I admit I haven't dont this with some of the gigantic late model 4 piston setups. Those might be a different color of a horse.
 
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