Valve lift limits

-

rumblefish360

I have escaped the EVIL Empire State!
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
49,380
Reaction score
23,215
Location
Florida
Hum, just wondering, if anybody would know,

Whats the valve lift limit be on a stock J head before you hit the guide?
How far down can that retainer go?
Pretend theres no coil bind and piston to head clearance problem.
 
just checked a factory valve head & it's about .600 clearance without a stem seal between factory retainer base & guide top, will slide a seal on later & measure, hope it helps a bit in the mean time
 
Makes me wonder if you'd hit the piston crown before the guide.......
(not to mention the coil bind you told me not to mention....oh, wait...)
 
I use the .520 limit for stock stuff, but that's for piston to valve with no releifs..not retainer to guide.
 
Hey Mike;

I was just wondering about it. I never had a problem with it before. Then again, I have had low lift cams with stock heads.
Well, as time goes by, and not doing anything but MoPars for the last 20 years, parts tend to....well...pile up.
I have a few old parts and 3, 360's hanging around. I started to look at everything I have. I'm an oil pump and a rotating assembly away from another engine.
Heads are stock J's (2.02) with MoPars 847 spring (.480 - .530 lift), (2) later smogers w/ 1.88's, Edelbrocks.
Intakes are stock T-Q, TorkerII, LD-340 & the RPM air-gap.
Trannys are a 904 in need, A fresh 727. minus converter, shifter and rear seal installation.
I'll be looking for a Duster next year again I think.*
I should finish the one I have now.
Taking pictures of it for a post on "How to do on the cheap/mild build."
Alot of how to 318 questions sometimes. And since I have one hangin around......

Thanks Moper , ledfoot & outlaw.
Look foward to the seal/lift check later Ledfoot.
 
I had a stock 440 long block with a comp cams 305H in it. Its 252 @ .050 and .525" lift. It had valve marks on every piston when we pulled the heads and 3 bent valves. This was a 72 block with low compression.
 
on this head with a factory seal & retainer it shows .500 inch between retainer base & seal top, ( tight measurement )
 
Rumble, there's a very, very clean 74ish duster for sale locally. 318 wA/C, auto. maybe 2 small (under 3" diameter) patches needed in the 1/4s, that's it.
 
Duster? Oh boy, here we go again. I wish I had the $ to buy all the deals that come out of the wood work when you have no cash. Argh....
Anyone here know the clearance on stock modern magnum heads? I've got a hughes cam that is right around .520 IIRC, and with the 1.6 rockers I think I'm screwed, Also, no valve springs available.
 
moper said:
Rumble, there's a very, very clean 74ish duster for sale locally. 318 wA/C, auto. maybe 2 small (under 3" diameter) patches needed in the 1/4s, that's it.


I was gonna snatch that up but relized I dont have time for the one I already have.
 
I dont know if it's even advertised..lol. He emailed me a week ago, but I've got all the A body I want right now. It's only about 1/2 mile from my house, and it's one of the cleanest I've ever seen. I guess it's a southern car. I thought it was a 6 popper, but it's not. I'm talking about the brown one..
 
bummer Dusterdood, got a set of Magnums here but the valves are missing to check :scratch:
 
moper said:
I dont know if it's even advertised..lol. He emailed me a week ago, but I've got all the A body I want right now. It's only about 1/2 mile from my house, and it's one of the cleanest I've ever seen. I guess it's a southern car. I thought it was a 6 popper, but it's not. I'm talking about the brown one..


He had it on Moparts or theres another one for really cheap. Does it need a floor pan welded in ? This one has a new pan but needs to be finished welded. Said it was drivable. If I didnt just by a truck I would have picked it up for a driver.
 
Moper, thanks. I can't handle it right now. I gotta get this Duster up and running and weld in 2 floor pans and rear 1/4's. (I may skip the rear 1/4's) Also a frame cap. The drivers side sideways frame rail is thin, not rusted through. So I figured I would beef it up with a cap. Sand blast it clean, prep it and weld it then POR-15 it all. (Hey, it's on my shelf.)

After some time with it, I'll put it up for sale.
 
"they all look the same to me" :) . JK

rumble, sounds like you should bail on the one you got, and just get this clean one..lol.
 
I'd love to. But unless your willing to lay out the cash and hold it for me.......LOL!
This project is allmost done. I just need a shifter, driveshaft, swap kit and exhaust. (Headers and on back.) I hope thats it.
Small stuff not included.
I would have like a 8 cyl. car to start with, but it did not present itself earlier.
 
Well, I AM sending a trailer to Yonkers next weekend to pick up a customer's car..it would be an easy delivery..lol. But, I can think of 1 or 2 things to better spend my $$ on. Maybe in the fall ;)
 
LOL, yes, I bet you can.
My grail Duster would be one I used to have and upgraded.
I had a *I think it was a * '73 med. blue w/ a 318, 3 spd manual on the floor with buckets and sure grip equiped rear, ratio unknown, foward vinal roof with moon roof, fold down rear seat.
Man, thats one a miss.
Next time, I'll advertise what I need here!
(Psssttt, what does he want for it?)
 
He wanted around $3900, I think. Nice car, but a little high to buy sight unseen. Also, the dart sport grill seems to turn people off. I guess the brown int is a down side too. Still a nice looking car.
 
I believe the limit on magnum heads is around .520". Usually have to have the guides taken down for most of hughes cams when using 1.6 rockers.
 
-
Back
Top