Valve / Piston Clearance in 383

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rumblefish360 said:
As a base cam recommendation, MoPars 292 Hyd. cam and then bowl port the heads with a gasket match.
?
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Hi Rumblefish, Which one of these would you recommend?

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-383-440-CHRYSLER-MOPAR-292-PURPLE-PLUS-CAM-LIFTERS-/200926167104?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8220040&vxp=mtr"]Comp 383 440 Chrysler Mopar 292 Purple Plus Cam Lifters | eBay[/ame]

[ame]http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUNATI-383-440-CHRYSLER-MOPAR-292-292-BRACKET-MASTER-HYD-CAM-CAMSHAFT-LIFTERS-/360766015433?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ff5487c9&vxp=mtr[/ame]

[ame]http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-CAM-MOPAR-CHRYSLER-292-292-501-501-MAGNUM-HYD-CAMSHAFT-SK-KIT-383-440-/200954012514?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec9cae362&vxp=mtr[/ame]
 
A lot of what you're experiencing in the leave IMO is in the rear suspension. That car makes enough torque to warrant 002 and 003 SS springs in the rear. They will aid tremendously in straightening the car out off the line. Also as moper suggested, have the front end aligned. That in itself can add to the ET and MPH because if the car is scrubbing the tires down the track, it could certainly be faster.
 
I bet you can. How far is the piston in the hole at TDC? With no valve reliefs, I bet it's a long way.
 
That chassis needs work... Were the frame connectors in? I'm thinking you need a chassis check out. When was the last time any of this was checked out. I have seen,similar cars ,run low 12's/high 11's no twist.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I bet you can. How far is the piston in the hole at TDC? With no valve reliefs, I bet it's a long way.
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Damn good question. I can't even remember as I didn't build the bottom end. Here's a pic I just found (which I didn't even think I had) that I got from the engine builder...

normal_camera_078_zps3d770c2c.jpg
 
Abodybomber said:
That chassis needs work... Were the frame connectors in? I'm thinking you need a chassis check out. When was the last time any of this was checked out. I have seen,similar cars ,run low 12's/high 11's no twist.
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Yeah, it's got 3" x 2" tube connectors in it that have been in it for around 6 months..
 
That looks at least like .100". Remember, it's not how much the valve opens, but when. The duration has tons more to do with piston to valve clearance than lift because as the piston is coming up, the valve is closing. It's going to have to be something that needs to be measured for sure. Damned if I wouldn't cut reliefs in those pistons if that's what it takes to run more cam......but I doubt you will need them.
 
Yeah, sometime in the new year I might get the heads off and do playdoh test and see what clearances I've got and see how big of a cam I can get in there and do some head porting/bowl cleaning while I'm there..
 
I don't think it's anywhere near that far down. What you're seeing is the taper on the edge of the piston, and the taper on the edge of the bore. It looks more to me to be .020-.030" down if that. I'd imagine that engine had to have some work done to get it like that but it's a good thing as long as the stock type pistons don't hit anything.
I agree in keeping the lift and duration conservative - and modern profiles tend to run less piston to valve clearance than the older stuff.
I'll also add - you may want to get some cylinder pressure readings. If the cam is in retarded (grind poorly) or straight up it will be soft on the bottom and you will see lower cylinder pressures from it.
 
moper said:
I don't think it's anywhere near that far down. What you're seeing is the taper on the edge of the piston, and the taper on the edge of the bore. It looks more to me to be .020-.030" down if that. I'd imagine that engine had to have some work done to get it like that but it's a good thing as long as the stock type pistons don't hit anything.
I agree in keeping the lift and duration conservative - and modern profiles tend to run less piston to valve clearance than the older stuff.
I'll also add - you may want to get some cylinder pressure readings. If the cam is in retarded (grind poorly) or straight up it will be soft on the bottom and you will see lower cylinder pressures from it.
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Yeah, I'll do a comp test and see what's happening there. Ideally I would love to put a more modern cam grind in it and a set of Stealth heads or give the 516's a bowl and port clean and polish.
 
So let me ask you.....how in the world do you KNOW what "I" see? Get over yourself already Dave.

moper said:
I don't think it's anywhere near that far down. What you're seeing is the taper on the edge of the piston, and the taper on the edge of the bore. It looks more to me to be .020-.030" down if that. I'd imagine that engine had to have some work done to get it like that but it's a good thing as long as the stock type pistons don't hit anything.
I agree in keeping the lift and duration conservative - and modern profiles tend to run less piston to valve clearance than the older stuff.
I'll also add - you may want to get some cylinder pressure readings. If the cam is in retarded (grind poorly) or straight up it will be soft on the bottom and you will see lower cylinder pressures from it.
Click to expand...
 
Let me just add to to some of this. The goal is that I want to go well into the 12's. Where should I start? Cam and Ally Heads?

The SS springs, these will be a hard one to purchase in Australia. Can anyone recommend where to purchase from in the US? Is there a specific model of these springs to suit Duster.
 
a 275/60 tire, 4.30 gear and SS springs should put you deep in the 12s.
Mancini racing and summit sell the springs.
you need a better 60 ft, the car needs to hook.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So let me ask you.....how in the world do you KNOW what "I" see? Get over yourself already Dave.
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You're right. Total assumption on my part. I also assumed you weren't a douchebag to everyone. I'm 0 for 2...:finga:
 
moper said:
You're right. Total assumption on my part. I also assumed you weren't a douchebag to everyone. I'm 0 for 2...:finga:
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Lighten up Francis. I was just poking fun at ya.
 
fishmens67 said:
a 275/60 tire, 4.30 gear and SS springs should put you deep in the 12s.
Mancini racing and summit sell the springs.
you need a better 60 ft, the car needs to hook.
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Found the springs from Summit but freight is a killer to Australia. Will have to see if I can figure out another option for them.
 
Any Mopar clubs in Australia ? Sometimes,a group buy in,gets a lower price. Any Mopar dealerships there? Over here (for me anyway....) Mopar dealerships,beat Jeg's & Summit. And no freight. It might take some waiting time,it would be worth it. Looking at you combination as a whole: This would wake up,with a Stealth/Air -Gap,a modern dual plane .Two considerations: Hood clearance,and the old school look.
 
Abodybomber said:
Any Mopar clubs in Australia ? Sometimes,a group buy in,gets a lower price. Any Mopar dealerships there? Over here (for me anyway....) Mopar dealerships,beat Jeg's & Summit. And no freight. It might take some waiting time,it would be worth it. Looking at you combination as a whole: This would wake up,with a Stealth/Air -Gap,a modern dual plane .Two considerations: Hood clearance,and the old school look.
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Yeah, theres Mopar Car Clubs. Not a bad idea actually. Might look into that or I might get them shipped thru work.
 
Check local spring shops, maybe they can help set up springs same as the S/S. I think you have a good combo going and just need to dial the rest of the package in.With 103 trap speed, you have the MPH for 12 second passes.Best of luck to you, you will get there !
 
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