Originalowner73 340duster
Well-Known Member
Wasn't rushing you just wanted to make sure I did it rightYup just sent you a long PM with many options to read over.
Thanks
James
Wasn't rushing you just wanted to make sure I did it rightYup just sent you a long PM with many options to read over.
Thanks
James
If its a 340 car to begin with, then my first guess is shocks. A stock suspension should not bottom out - especially one with a 'HD' package like would come with a 340 car. So as ZKx14 wrote, it depends on what you mean, but shocks is what I suspect. Make sure nothing is loose, and then set the front hieght to factory specs. After that, if you want a better handling package, plenty of good suggestions already made. But I'd start with fixing what is wrong - that's probably shocks and ride ht.Want to upgrade my 73duster suspension..what is recommended..it was always bottoming out and low in frontdont really want to raise just maybe stiffin up and handle well..
I'm getting shocks .sway bars.leafs .possibly tbars..and see how it goesI installed Hellwig front and rear sway bar , Mancini XHD rear springs and good ole rubber bushing with Moog offsets in upper control arms.
It handles and rides great. Super tight !
I cant imagine I will ever corner hard enough to need more.
Yes stock suspension...will be doing poly and t bars will need shocks possibly springs been sitting long time road very low and didn't handle bumps at all
I believe some 318 cars had same bars as 340s. Im pretty sure my 68 Barracuda did.
Thanks. Then definately what I wrote above. Somethings not right. That was a very decent package. Where it will fall down by today's sports car standards is the roll resistance especially with today's overall better grip on performance tires. But as far as bottoming out - it should not be doing that.He has an original & real 340 car.
Definitely get the torsion bars! I did Torsion bars, sway bars, UCAs, LCA stiffening plates, Bilstein RCD shocks all from PST. No more bottoming out or wallowing around in corners. As stated before, you don't have to do all that, but if you can, you will likely be happy you did. Also, if you have to chose 1 over the other, I'd recommend torsion bars before sway bars.
Cley
Yes original space 340..has front sway.... didn't measure t bars..just got on road..and going to get leafs and shocks..t bars and sway bars.. bushings aren't horrible but going to replace as I'm in their..in process off looking for someone to weld in floor pan..and do frame connectors..got price for 1500-2 k.. not with parts so I'm looking around..will put other parts on while I'm waiting unless I find someone who can do the welding first..most places are month out..OK "what is" stock..............?
Is your car originally 340? Or slant? Have you measured the T bars?
Generally heavier T bars and AT LEAST a factory anit-sway bar, "go up" from there
Then good shocks, tires, bushings etc.
Yes that is true ..the free shocks ...I got what I paid for..nothin..lol drove again today and actually drove bit better ..but still bottom in out ..and have to do intake it got worse..Thanks. Then definately what I wrote above. Somethings not right. That was a very decent package. Where it will fall down by today's sports car standards is the roll resistance especially with today's overall better grip on performance tires. But as far as bottoming out - it should not be doing that.
Also noticed that my traction bars front braket is off the leaf ..don't remember that being like that ..the snub end is also worn bot not enough to make up the gap I don't think..when I jack the bumper the front bracket of traction bars are back on the leaf..so that's bad shocks and leafs??Yes that is true ..the free shocks ...I got what I paid for..nothin..lol drove again today and actually drove bit better ..but still bottom in out ..and have to do intake it got worse..
Which leafs do you prefer rumbleDump the traction bars for new springs and never worry about it.
All my front end bushings look pretty good and all greasable joints are good no movement..still going to replace at some point..sway bar links are totally shot tho..car settled in pretty good ..not bottoming out in back anyway ,front always hit headers and squeaks went away..still getting Bilstein shocks and pst sway bar..leafs along after..but have to do the floor pan and some metal work to make safe..I’ve only tried the MP - S/S springs and a set from “Springs and Things” - AKA espo.com which worked really well on my old Duster. I ordered them with a 1 inch overbend for a modest rake for the hot rod look.
Between the two, I would use the espo.com springs in stock or 1 inch overbend. They road nice and the car always went pin straight on launch.
I carry t bars that I feel work best in an updated situation. 1.08s. I also make Delrin lca bushings which out perform urethane all day long. Bilstein shocks are a good choice as they are mono tube. Vikings and Qa1s are twin tube which is generally cheaper type construction. I offer personalized service wih tons of experience. Bergmanautocraft.com