Want to do suspension..

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Want to upgrade my 73duster suspension..what is recommended..it was always bottoming out and low in frontdont really want to raise just maybe stiffin up and handle well..
If its a 340 car to begin with, then my first guess is shocks. A stock suspension should not bottom out - especially one with a 'HD' package like would come with a 340 car. So as ZKx14 wrote, it depends on what you mean, but shocks is what I suspect. Make sure nothing is loose, and then set the front hieght to factory specs. After that, if you want a better handling package, plenty of good suggestions already made. But I'd start with fixing what is wrong - that's probably shocks and ride ht.
 
I installed Hellwig front and rear sway bar , Mancini XHD rear springs and good ole rubber bushing with Moog offsets in upper control arms.

It handles and rides great. Super tight !
I cant imagine I will ever corner hard enough to need more.
 
I installed Hellwig front and rear sway bar , Mancini XHD rear springs and good ole rubber bushing with Moog offsets in upper control arms.

It handles and rides great. Super tight !
I cant imagine I will ever corner hard enough to need more.
I'm getting shocks .sway bars.leafs .possibly tbars..and see how it goes
 
Definitely get the torsion bars! I did Torsion bars, sway bars, UCAs, LCA stiffening plates, Bilstein RCD shocks all from PST. No more bottoming out or wallowing around in corners. As stated before, you don't have to do all that, but if you can, you will likely be happy you did. Also, if you have to chose 1 over the other, I'd recommend torsion bars before sway bars.

Cley
 
I'm going with MOOG stock replacement rubber parts, with tubular uppers and 1.03 torsion bars on a 1970 Duster, along with reinforced lower control arms. It's gotta handle better than original!
 
Yes stock suspension...will be doing poly and t bars will need shocks possibly springs been sitting long time road very low and didn't handle bumps at all

OK "what is" stock..............?

Is your car originally 340? Or slant? Have you measured the T bars?

Generally heavier T bars and AT LEAST a factory anit-sway bar, "go up" from there

Then good shocks, tires, bushings etc.
 
I believe some 318 cars had same bars as 340s. Im pretty sure my 68 Barracuda did.
 
I believe some 318 cars had same bars as 340s. Im pretty sure my 68 Barracuda did.

318 cars with AC had the same torsion bars that the 340 cars did.

Doesn't really matter, even the 340 bars are too small.
 
He has an original & real 340 car.
Thanks. Then definately what I wrote above. Somethings not right. That was a very decent package. Where it will fall down by today's sports car standards is the roll resistance especially with today's overall better grip on performance tires. But as far as bottoming out - it should not be doing that.
 
My front end had no issues as far as spring rate but the rear springs were shot.
The bigger front Helwig and addition of the rear Helwig sway bars seemed to make all the difference in handling.
I dont autocross but I do live in the mountians... so there are plenty of curvy roads. The body stays pretty darn flat. Nothing like the 911s and NSXs I sell but I really dont drive those cars all that fast either.
 
Definitely get the torsion bars! I did Torsion bars, sway bars, UCAs, LCA stiffening plates, Bilstein RCD shocks all from PST. No more bottoming out or wallowing around in corners. As stated before, you don't have to do all that, but if you can, you will likely be happy you did. Also, if you have to chose 1 over the other, I'd recommend torsion bars before sway bars.

Cley
OK "what is" stock..............?

Is your car originally 340? Or slant? Have you measured the T bars?

Generally heavier T bars and AT LEAST a factory anit-sway bar, "go up" from there

Then good shocks, tires, bushings etc.
Yes original space 340..has front sway.... didn't measure t bars..just got on road..and going to get leafs and shocks..t bars and sway bars.. bushings aren't horrible but going to replace as I'm in their..in process off looking for someone to weld in floor pan..and do frame connectors..got price for 1500-2 k.. not with parts so I'm looking around..will put other parts on while I'm waiting unless I find someone who can do the welding first..most places are month out..
 
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Thanks. Then definately what I wrote above. Somethings not right. That was a very decent package. Where it will fall down by today's sports car standards is the roll resistance especially with today's overall better grip on performance tires. But as far as bottoming out - it should not be doing that.
Yes that is true ..the free shocks ...I got what I paid for..nothin..lol drove again today and actually drove bit better ..but still bottom in out ..and have to do intake it got worse..
 
Yes that is true ..the free shocks ...I got what I paid for..nothin..lol drove again today and actually drove bit better ..but still bottom in out ..and have to do intake it got worse..
Also noticed that my traction bars front braket is off the leaf ..don't remember that being like that ..the snub end is also worn bot not enough to make up the gap I don't think..when I jack the bumper the front bracket of traction bars are back on the leaf..so that's bad shocks and leafs??
 
Dump the traction bars for new springs and never worry about it.
 
I’ve only tried the MP - S/S springs and a set from “Springs and Things” - AKA espo.com which worked really well on my old Duster. I ordered them with a 1 inch overbend for a modest rake for the hot rod look.

Between the two, I would use the espo.com springs in stock or 1 inch overbend. They road nice and the car always went pin straight on launch.
 
I’ve only tried the MP - S/S springs and a set from “Springs and Things” - AKA espo.com which worked really well on my old Duster. I ordered them with a 1 inch overbend for a modest rake for the hot rod look.

Between the two, I would use the espo.com springs in stock or 1 inch overbend. They road nice and the car always went pin straight on launch.
All my front end bushings look pretty good and all greasable joints are good no movement..still going to replace at some point..sway bar links are totally shot tho..car settled in pretty good ..not bottoming out in back anyway ,front always hit headers and squeaks went away..still getting Bilstein shocks and pst sway bar..leafs along after..but have to do the floor pan and some metal work to make safe..
 
I carry t bars that I feel work best in an updated situation. 1.08s. I also make Delrin lca bushings which out perform urethane all day long. Bilstein shocks are a good choice as they are mono tube. Vikings and Qa1s are twin tube which is generally cheaper type construction. I offer personalized service wih tons of experience. Bergmanautocraft.com
 
@Originalowner73 340duster

See below for a local goodfella
He gets my vote


I carry t bars that I feel work best in an updated situation. 1.08s. I also make Delrin lca bushings which out perform urethane all day long. Bilstein shocks are a good choice as they are mono tube. Vikings and Qa1s are twin tube which is generally cheaper type construction. I offer personalized service wih tons of experience. Bergmanautocraft.com
 
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