Water pump rotation in a big block housing?

[adriver]

Anyone run into this?
The first picture is the housing on a motor home 440. (1975)
The second picture is the housing on a 383 (69 date code).
So I've learned that MOPAR did change the housings in the 70s and put the return on the passenger's side.
The third picture are the respective water pump impellers.
Now notice the new one from Advance.
The vanes are "backwards"???
Every big block car I do a search on at Advance comes up with this same water pump for a big block.
I'm thinking that the vanes may not make a difference since they don't seem to be canted. Just straight up and down.
I'm also thinking I'll swap housings and use the 69 housing which will keep the return on the driver's side.
Non-ac car
Opinions?


As as side note, the radiator is a 17X26 core.
I checked it and the bottom is leaking all over.
Wow, has anyone priced OEM type radiators?
Brass must be high.
And inflation, of course.
$287 is the lowest and it goes up to the 500 dollar range for a B body.

At least A body radiators are still seem resonable at the parts store.
I just bought a heater core for a Dart under 50 dollars.

 

[67Dart273]

"I don't know"

Some possibilities:

Pump part number proves nothing unless you actually inspected the pump in the box, and who knows, that manufacturer could have screwed up.

They bought a whole shipload of the wrong impellers

or that particular pump has the wrong impeller

Did Ma make a reverse roatation (marine) version?

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

the one with the suction on the passenger side is a truck housing. they take the same pump as a regular housing. that pump with the inverted impeller must be some Chinese junk...

BTW the truck housings work pretty good, i have one on my RR. think they might cool better, but thats just my observation and opinion...

 

[adriver]

Thanks for the input.
I'm certainly going to return the pump then.
It has less impellers too.
Now what do I get for a OEM? hum.
I'll need a new radiator, and will have to figure which side I want the return on the new radiator too.
The new pump actually says "Japan" on the bag. wow.

 

[BillGrissom]

No clue on the impeller blades. Would probably work, but slightly less efficient. I wouldn't use either cast-iron water pump housing. You can get an aluminum housing and pump ~$120 on ebay. I may swap to that on my 65 Newport to take 25 lb off the front end.

Shop around for radiators. I recently got a new aluminum Pro-Cool one on ebay for $80. Was thinking of using in my 65 Dart, but would have had to cut off the frame rail lips to fit. I put in my Newport (w/ shorter battery tray). Has no trans cooler, but I prefer a separate cooler anyway to avoid water in the tranny. The original round-top radiator in my early Mopars tend to split at the upper seam. Yours is the better square-top. You could probably get it rodded for <$100.

 

[adriver]

Well Bill,
I put my foot in my mouth, again.
I found and took the radiator to a local radiator shop on Friday. ("Hole In The Wall Radiator Repair")
I walked in and Betty was on the phone with Nancy.
So she hangs up and I told her that I had a radiator in the truck which I had already pressure checked and the bottom was leaking all across the tank.
My thought on comming in was to get a repair quote and spend the money locally by getting it fixed if it was cost effective rather than "sending the money to Mexico" for a new one .
For practical purposes, it's a total rebuild.
Betty calls a guy out of the back and tells him to go with me to the truck and look at it.
Before I thought about it, I told him the same thing.
I wanted to spend the money locally if it was cost effective rather than sending money to Mexico for a new one.
Let's just say I then noticed the fellow had an accent.
But more to the point when we went the truck and he understood that it a total rebuild and the girl did a little research I was quoted the same price that I found a new OEM type one for online.
It's a toss up.

In the mean time I looked more closely and I leaned that a 22 inch core is what I need to fit the hole in car. Someone had put a 26 inch core in the car and I didn't notice it. The listing say both sizes were in big block cars.
This car was orginally a 318 car.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Well Bill,
I put my foot in my mouth, again.
I found and took the radiator to a local radiator shop on Friday. ("Hole In The Wall Radiator Repair")
I walked in and Betty was on the phone with Nancy.
So she hangs up and I told her that I had a radiator in the truck which I had already pressure checked and the bottom was leaking all across the tank.
My thought on comming in was to get a repair quote and spend the money locally by getting it fixed if it was cost effective rather than "sending the money to Mexico" for a new one .
For practical purposes, it's a total rebuild.
Betty calls a guy out of the back and tells him to go with me to the truck and look at it.
Before I thought about it, I told him the same thing.
I wanted to spend the money locally if it was cost effective rather than sending money to Mexico for a new one.
Let's just say I then noticed the fellow had an accent.
But more to the point when we went the truck and he understood that it a total rebuild and the girl did a little research I was quoted the same price that I found a new OEM type one for online.
It's a toss up.

In the mean time I looked more closely and I leaned that a 22 inch core is what I need to fit the hole in car. Someone had put a 26 inch core in the car and I didn't notice it. The listing say both sizes were in big block cars.
This car was orginally a 318 car.

a bodies had the 22in radiators. if you have a 26 stay with it, it'll still cool better. be even better if you open the hole in the core support. bigger is better with a big block!!

the rad shop probably has the potential to build a better radiator if they know what there doing and use good thick core's. think Detroit Cores are suppose to be about the best. but your looking at a easy 400 bucks or better. i was going to have the 22" for my cuda done up, and it was somewhere in that ball park for a good 3 core.

 

[pishta]

The pump impeller design is generic. As long as the blades are straight, it doesnt matter where the bend is. They all just fling water outboard from the center water supply. I had an old bakelite impeller that was a solid formed disk with fins on it. The number of fins used to be dependent on A/C or not A/C as the cars had different pulley sizes and the smaller pulley made the impeller faster so they reduced the number of fins to prevent cavitation. I think B/RB are all the same now. CAT and Milodon still use the cast spiral blades, all others used stamped impellers.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

that pump is a reverse rotation chrysler marine unit.