Welding woes...frustrating!!

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^^Here's the thing^^ it might not JUST be the extension cord. You could already have drop from the breaker box due to marginal wiring between the breaker box and your outlet. You need really, to start clear back at the breaker box (or have a friend who knows wiring) see what the breaker is feeding it, figure what the wire footage is from the box, and what size wire.

One last scary thought AND THIS IS REAL

Friend of mine years ago had a then-new manufactured home, AKA double wide on a permanent footing. Forgot brand of breaker box installed by manufacturer. Remember this thing is NEW and all electric, AKA electric heat, range, water heater, dryer. One these items, forgotten which, was giving him trouble, and "he smelled" so I went over there. THE CLIPS ON THE BACK OF THE BREAKERS which make contact with the buss in the box were so poor quality, they were loose and arcing and heating and damaging the breakers and the buss!!!!! YOU ARE TALKING HOUSEFIRE, here friends. I was flabbergasted, and remember to this day.

So let's add this what you need:
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Quality of the fuse panel and contact with breakers and buss

Good connections to wire feeding outlet

Not too long wire to outlet and good connections

Proper outlet IE 20A say, and no GFI unless rated for that high current

Proper size and minimal length extension from outlet to welder.
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There have been several breaker panels recalled do to poor design.

I had a recalled "Zinsco" on my shop. Had been there from 1977 until 2012.
 
Glad to see you went back to the outlet and verified it is indeed the extension cord. I think once you get the proper 10 gauge cord and a bit more practice you will really start enjoying it.
 
Five pages! Might as well keep it going :)
Here's a tip to add to the confusion.

Try a stop start pattern. It's much easier than a running bead. Use a high amp setting for good penetration and just put blob on blob. Pause enough to prevent burning through, usually just a second or so.
This method allows you to really see the puddle. It is much harder to see the puddle with a continuous arc.
Your pics show you are not seeing it well. Lighting and helmet setting are important. Focus HARD on that puddle.
Once you are seeing the puddle better, you will have more success with a continuous bead.
Others I've shared this with have had immediate results.
 
Idaho said:
Five pages! Might as well keep it going :)
Here's a tip to add to the confusion.

Try a stop start pattern. It's much easier than a running bead. Use a high amp setting for good penetration and just put blob on blob. Pause enough to prevent burning through, usually just a second or so.
This method allows you to really see the puddle. It is much harder to see the puddle with a continuous arc.
Your pics show you are not seeing it well. Lighting and helmet setting are important. Focus HARD on that puddle.
Once you are seeing the puddle better, you will have more success with a continuous bead.
Others I've shared this with have had immediate results.
Click to expand...
Thanks I will try that. I am having a hard time seeing my bead I have played with the settings on my helmet some I am afraid of going to low and hurting my eyes. Mine has two settings 1-8 and 9-13 then a dial on each setting I keep it on 9-13 and usually run it on 9 or 10.
 
I would try the 8 setting if you are welding out in the sunlight.
The lens has uv protection so welding flash is near impossible.
However, prolonged exposure may cause damage, headaches are also possible.
Honestly i would try welding at night, with a bright light directed at the area you are welding.
 
If you cant see what you are doing,you arent really welding.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I would try the 8 setting if you are welding out in the sunlight.
The lens has uv protection so welding flash is near impossible.
However, prolonged exposure may cause damage, headaches are also possible.
Honestly i would try welding at night, with a bright light directed at the area you are welding.
Click to expand...
I will try 8 and see if it helps. I just worry because I wear contacts I have had flash burn when I was in trade school it was awful I couldn't imagine it with contacts in.
 
Had flash before also, flip up helmet. Scary ****.
Reading helmet owners manual, even if it doesent darken it offers some level of protection.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Thanks I will try that. I am having a hard time seeing my bead I have played with the settings on my helmet some I am afraid of going to low and hurting my eyes. Mine has two settings 1-8 and 9-13 then a dial on each setting I keep it on 9-13 and usually run it on 9 or 10.
Click to expand...

Clean and tight gaps for an amateur to have success welding. I have used the start stop method. Crank up those amps and if you in the ballpark it will almost look like tig welding.

I also use an air gun to cool down thin welding. I don't weld often so if I don't use everything I can it looks like Fido's *** lol...

JW
 
Tooljunkie said:
Had flash before also, flip up helmet. Scary ****.
Reading helmet owners manual, even if it doesent darken it offers some level of protection.
Click to expand...
Yep that's how I got mine stupid flip up I didnt get it down in time haha
 
Can't see the weld when welding ???

Flux core welding produces smoke in the process of covering the weld with slag to keep the atmosphere and impurities out of the weld till it cools.

The smoke produced at the weld is limiting your ability to see and control the molten puddle.

Another advantage to gas shielded welding, you can much easier see the molten weld puddle.

Also for those that are talking start stop stitch welding, this works best with gas shield welding, no flux to roll down and create porosity in the weld when you stop and start.
 
George Jets said:
Can't see the weld when welding ???

Flux core welding produces smoke in the process of covering the weld with slag to keep the atmosphere and impurities out of the weld till it cools.

The smoke produced at the weld is limiting your ability to see and control the molten puddle.

Another advantage to gas shielded welding, you can much easier see the molten weld puddle.

Also for those that are talking start stop stitch welding, this works best with gas shield welding, no flux to roll down and create porosity in the weld when you stop and start.
Click to expand...

I have only done it with Gas... You guys knows this stuff way more than I do. I used the method on less than stellar material also...

I have not read all the thread however if he is having a hard time seeing the puddle that's a huge problem. I am average at best but saw the Puddle when I first struck an Arc welding and the guy I got my Mig from said that was the most important thing....

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
I have only done it with Gas... You guys knows this stuff way more than I do. I used the method on less than stellar material also...

I have not read all the thread however if he is having a hard time seeing the puddle that's a huge problem. I am average at best but saw the Puddle when I first struck an Arc welding and the guy I got my Mig from said that was the most important thing....

JW
Click to expand...
It's not that I cant see the puddle I just have a hard time moving it in relation to where I need to be haha. Now before on page 1 I wasnt seeing the bead because it was nonexistent after I got rid of the cord it was night and day. I had to do some tack welds on my truck today I broke a bolt off in the axle housing removing the cad cover so I threaded a nut on the remainder of the bolt and tac welded the nut to the bolt. I had to use the extension cord for that and just the tac weld done fine its just not getting enough amps to run a bead. I'm gonna buy a 20 foot 10 gauge and try that and see if it improves. I'm gonna get some more scrap and keep practicing hopefully next week I can weld my dart axle housing back together.
 
To get a little more duty cycle out of your welder blow a household box fan at it while you are welding.

That will help pull the excess heat out of the welder so you can weld a little longer, like when welding your rear end.

Use a drop cord from some other house circuit to power the fan, so the welder is the only thing running on it's circuit while you are welding.

Also don't run other heavy appliances in the house while welding either, drawing power away from your weld.

Save cooking your "Pizza" in the oven until after you are done welding. Lol . .
 
One thing that helps me in order to see the weld/ bead is to get a BRIGHT big flood and illuminate the weld area. Be careful to not get in shadow, or position it to shine into the back of your hood.
 
I'm finally figuring out this welder I'm getting better. Did some cab corners for a buddy today. Flux core isnt appropriate for body panels ah? Challenge accepted! Haha

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I dont think I updated my rearend on this thread but I got it welded up too.

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Just saw this thread. Not a pro weld **** type here. I'm proficient with mig, tig and even gas welding. Material prep and proper fitment are huge factors. HOWEVER if you cant see the puddle none of it matters. I have a few different helmets, I like the #10 on them all. For me its really about getting my body/head into a position that will allow me to see the puddle. If your running a bead and the gun or torch is blocking your view, your probably in the wrong position. Yes, flux core makes alot of smoke and does make it little more difficult to see. For me, once I can SEE the puddle and my material I have a much better chance of putting down in good bead with deep penetration.
If your welder is down on power, using a torch to put some heat into your weld joint is one way to work around it.
 
Gearhed73 said:
Just saw this thread. Not a pro weld **** type here. I'm proficient with mig, tig and even gas welding. Material prep and proper fitment are huge factors. HOWEVER if you cant see the puddle none of it matters. I have a few different helmets, I like the #10 on them all. For me its really about getting my body/head into a position that will allow me to see the puddle. If your running a bead and the gun or torch is blocking your view, your probably in the wrong position. Yes, flux core makes alot of smoke and does make it little more difficult to see. For me, once I can SEE the puddle and my material I have a much better chance of putting down in good bead with deep penetration.
If your welder is down on power, using a torch to put some heat into your weld joint is one way to work around it.
Click to expand...
Iv found that my number 9 setting is working best for me. I don't remember who said it but the flashlight trick has been a huge help too. I want to get a big led light bar to put up when I'm welding but for now im just setting up a spot light and shining it where I'm welding its helping alot.
 
Dont know about that.. you will get the hang of it. You dont have to be dead nuts when you light it off, just close enough to get onto the joint quickly. It takes sometime to get used to it.. so dont beat yourself up. When I was younger doing lots of body panels I'd basically have my hood up and as I lit it off id just drop my head to shield my eyes. Thats where the auto dark
hoods are nice.
 
Gearhed73 said:
Dont know about that.. you will get the hang of it. You dont have to be dead nuts when you light it off, just close enough to get onto the joint quickly. It takes sometime to get used to it.. so dont beat yourself up. When I was younger doing lots of body panels I'd basically have my hood up and as I lit it off id just drop my head to shield my eyes. Thats where the auto dark
hoods are nice.
Click to expand...
Yea I remember doing that in auto shop in high school we didnt have auto darkening helmets I also remember getting flash burn in my eyes that **** hurt!
 
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