I totally rebuilt the front suspension last summer including all new ball joints.
I took apart the CalTracs last night. This and the axle are the ONLY things I haven't gone through or redone since I bought the car as a roller. First, I measured the space between each bar for preload. Neither side had any preload. Lh was like 0.050" and Rh was like 0.090"clearance. So next I started disassembly and found the Lh side was essentially frozen up and the Rh side was barely able to move. That doesn't seem right so it's all coming off. A few bolts gave me a workout but I got them out. I'll clean it all and grease it up and make sure it's all free and able to move. Then I'll start with a tad of preload on the Lh side for the next time I take it out. The rods ends on the transfer bars are also pretty frozen so those will get addressed as well. So more work under the car for the next few evenings. Then get the shift light in so we can see if ole dummy here can learn to shift on command instead of just randomly!
You guys know your stuff too well! These are MT ET Drag 28/10.5-15W's. Wheel wells front-to-rear can handle maybe 1 more inch in diameter. Springs are inboard and could maybe handle more width but at this power level, shouldn't really need it.
Converter is an 8" ATI Treemaster. This is my first experience with one if these. So far, from what I can tell, it seems to be doing as advertised. The only thing was I had asked for about 4800 flash stall and it's getting right at 5000. I doubt you can guess them much closer than that when you're welding the thing together. You could obviously tighten it up from here but before I did that, I think a 4.10 axle might drop it a tad anyway. And if not, ok too as I need less axle for dropping rpm out the back door. But THAT hinges on whether we're going to run 1/8 mile or quarter mile. Don't need it for 1/8 mile. Decisions, decisions, decisions....
What is the thought behind that suggestion? Thx!!
