What else should I grab?

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shovhd

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Looks like I'm getting a 360 from a 74 D100 this weekend. It will eventually be going in my 72 Dart. Is there anything else useful I could be grabbing?

Thanks
 
If this is a slant 6 conversion, grab the trans if it's a slip yoke type, take the slip yoke and kickdown linkage too. If it has an 8 3/4 rear, it would be good for a narrowing project. If it's not an 8 3/4, don't bother with it. Of course, none of the motor mounts or oil pan/pickup stuff will fit your Dart so keep an eye out for the car versions of those parts. Same with the LH exhaust manifold if you're not using headers. If the truck has that tall air cleaner, you might have hood clearence problems. Grab the electronic ignition module and wiring for it if your '72 is still points.
 
EVERYTHIGN POSSIBLE!!!!!!!!!

From the rad to the rear of the driveshaft. Allways good to have a spare driveshaft. Engine mounts to the wing nut of the air cleaner, fender to fender everything inbetween.

Also, the brakes, rotors, caliper, knuckles, rear drums from baking plate to lug nut, portioning valve, booster even. Tranny linkages! Don't forget the linkages!
 
Also you can use the elect ingnition wires, balistic resistor ECU voltage regualtor and all that stuff. I would recomend leaving all wires connected to the motor and just unbolt from the firewall and inner fenders. When you put in the car make sure they reach where you want them before you drill any holes for mounting them.
 
cudamark said:
. . . . If it has an 8 3/4 rear, it would be good for a narrowing project. If it's not an 8 3/4, don't bother with it.
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74s should still have the 8.75. If so the axles are perfect fore shortening and resplining to A Body 8.75 size. Other rear ends it could have would be an 8.25 or 9.25.
 
Is it FREE or are you having to buy the parts??? If it's FREE get everything that's any good, interior parts, glass, dash, grille etc (you can always sell or trade good parts).. If you're having to buy the parts, I'd do it the same way, let a few other parts pay for the parts you really need, if the person isn't breaking every part down seperate and chargein ya... If I'm having to buy the parts, I try and make a lump sum offer on "everything" I need and everything I know that I can re-sale...
 
Thanks everyone. Do anyone even do FREE anymore? LOL. I am paying for this, but the prices are reasonable (for Vancouver Island, BC). Would the power brakes and power steering parts work on the Dart or on my 67 Belv? I will grab the proportioning valve.
 
If he's that's reasonable, I'd try and buy the whole truck and part it out myself.. Strip it then send it to the scrap yard, scrap prices are pretty good here in the states right now (china doesn't want the U.S. dollar thay want our metal for payment on our debt).. I've seen auto scrap metal as high as $12.00 a hundred (In North Carolina)... The hull would bring about $300.00 after stripped... Ofcourse I don't know what scrap goes for in Canada..
 
shovhd said:
Thanks everyone. Do anyone even do FREE anymore? LOL. I am paying for this, but the prices are reasonable (for Vancouver Island, BC). Would the power brakes and power steering parts work on the Dart or on my 67 Belv? I will grab the proportioning valve.
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Unless you have someone who actually needs those truck parts, I wouldn't bother buying them. The brakes, suspension, steering, are truck only parts. Same with body, glass, and interior. The stock driveshafts came with a 4" tube which I don't like in a car but that's up to you. Complete overkill for a driver and too big for a driveshaft loop on a race car.
 
shovhd said:
Thanks everyone. Do anyone even do FREE anymore? LOL. I am paying for this, but the prices are reasonable (for Vancouver Island, BC). Would the power brakes and power steering parts work on the Dart or on my 67 Belv? I will grab the proportioning valve.
Click to expand...

Play your cards right and sometimes ya get stuff for free.. I'm going tomorrow to cut out an entire floorboard out of a 74-Valiant for FREE... Let us know what you score and how the price per part break down went.. I hope you get some good stuff and don't get and nickle an dimed to bad...
 
rumblefish360 said:
EVERYTHIGN POSSIBLE!!!!!!!!!

From the rad to the rear of the driveshaft. Allways good to have a spare driveshaft. Engine mounts to the wing nut of the air cleaner, fender to fender everything inbetween.

Also, the brakes, rotors, caliper, knuckles, rear drums from baking plate to lug nut, portioning valve, booster even. Tranny linkages! Don't forget the linkages!
Click to expand...

Rumble you sound like me. hell I even save vacuum lines.
 
Well here what I ended up getting for $800:

18jun2010119.jpg
18jun2010118.jpg
18jun2010117.jpg
18jun2010116.jpg
18jun2010115.jpg



So a 360, 727, A-Body 8.75 w/741 non-SG, Holley Street Dominator, 6AL MSD.

I think I did ok.

Now to start taking it apart. :-D
 
You can sell that transmission.....it's not going to work in a car. Use the money to build up a 904.
 
cudamark said:
You can sell that transmission.....it's not going to work in a car. Use the money to build up a 904.
Click to expand...

Well, I'm learning stuff already. Good thing it was basically thrown in for nothing. Could you explain why it doesn't work in a car? I have another SB 727 out of a 67 Belvedere, but I was thinking of finding a 904 for this build anyway so I wouldn't have to shorten the drive shaft. Speaking of which, will the drive shaft from a /6-904 work with a SB-904 without shortening it? Thanks for the input.

Also, can anyone tell me whether the Holley Street Dominator intake and MSD 6AL will be any good for a 350-400hp 360 build? I also have a Holley 770 Avenger carb. Too big?

Thanks
 
shovhd said:
Well, I'm learning stuff already. Good thing it was basically thrown in for nothing. Could you explain why it doesn't work in a car? I have another SB 727 out of a 67 Belvedere, but I was thinking of finding a 904 for this build anyway so I wouldn't have to shorten the drive shaft. Speaking of which, will the drive shaft from a /6-904 work with a SB-904 without shortening it? Thanks for the input.

Also, can anyone tell me whether the Holley Street Dominator intake and MSD 6AL will be any good for a 350-400hp 360 build? I also have a Holley 770 Avenger carb. Too big?

Thanks
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The transmission you got with the engine is one with a fixed putput flange that uses a 2 piece driveshaft with a center bearing. I guess you could modify the car to accept one but that would be a lot of work. If it were me doing this changeover, I'd want to use a one piece driveshaft with a slip yoke. A 904 in a 6cyl is the same length as a 904 behind a V8. Near as I can tell, they all use the same u-joint also (as long as we're talking the '66-up slip yoke version). The '67 S.B. 727 will work if you don't need the backup light feature of the '69-up transmissions and you're willing to get a 727 yoke and shorten the driveshaft.
Thanks, Mark
 
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