What is this? (Paint related)

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73AbodEE said:
i said something in my post about it yesterday.i guess i should have been more clear. oh well, too late now, nothing that cant be fixed, i bet it turns out great next time !!
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I missed that thread!

I would suggest soaking the floor with a water hose to help keep the dust down!!
 
Almost everything ive done Ive gotten a crash course in. I didnt expect this to be much different. On the P sheet for the paint they dont even give you a mix ratio for reducer. But I have emailed them to find out exactly what that is. I have about half a gallon left im going to order another quart and hardner. All I have is medium reducer. What "Ideal" weather should I shoot in?
 
CUUDAK said:
I missed that thread!

I would suggest soaking the floor with a water hose to help keep the dust down!!
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thats exactly what i did. i also used a piece of chain as a ground from the body to floor to keep any static electricity from turning the car into a giant dust magnet. dont know if it really works....
 
72ScampTramp said:
Almost everything ive done Ive gotten a crash course in. I didnt expect this to be much different. On the P sheet for the paint they dont even give you a mix ratio for reducer. But I have emailed them to find out exactly what that is. I have about half a gallon left im going to order another quart and hardner. All I have is medium reducer. What "Ideal" weather should I shoot in?
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is this TCP global paint? if so , they have a tech sheet PDF that you can look at.

this is what i used. when i bought mine, there was no mention of optional reducer, i always use reducer

Acrylic Enamel - AE2506

Complete Ready-To-Spray Kits


Each Kit Includes:
  • 1-Gallon Acrylic Enamel Color 2.8 voc
  • 1-Pint Wet Look Hardener
  • 5-EA Quality 190 Micron Nylon Automotive Strainers
  • 5-EA Wooden Paint Mixing Sticks
  • No Reducer Required (Optional)
[ame="http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/docs/techsheet_ae.pdf"]Tech Sheet PDF[/ame]
Acrylic Enamel Products & Additives
 
72ScampTramp said:
Almost everything ive done Ive gotten a crash course in. I didnt expect this to be much different. On the P sheet for the paint they dont even give you a mix ratio for reducer. But I have emailed them to find out exactly what that is. I have about half a gallon left im going to order another quart and hardner. All I have is medium reducer. What "Ideal" weather should I shoot in?
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Be sure to mix the quart with what you have left before you start using it so the color will be uniform. I have seen different shades when different batches were used seperatly.
 
Yes that is it. But I used the Urethane not the Enamel. I do have a copy of the tech sheet but it did say optional and not required. This next time around I will do so. Yes I had already thought of that Okla. But thanks for reminding me.
 
Yeah I just looked at the tech sheet and it does say the reducer is optional. But then it tells you o mix it 4:1
 
when i got mine there were fast medium slow kits for the different temps. i dont know why it has changed. i mixed mine 4 paint 1 reducer 1/2 hardener
 
72ScampTramp said:
Almost everything ive done Ive gotten a crash course in. I didnt expect this to be much different. On the P sheet for the paint they dont even give you a mix ratio for reducer. But I have emailed them to find out exactly what that is. I have about half a gallon left im going to order another quart and hardner. All I have is medium reducer. What "Ideal" weather should I shoot in?
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Medium at 70* will work.

If you have a half a gallon of paint left put a half a pint of hardener and a pint of reducer then mix thoroughly.

Slow your roll and be sure to get consistant speed and overlap.

Practice on some paper to get your speed and overlap nailed first! For giggles see how slow you can go before it runs then adjust your movement from there.
Then spray away....

It will turn out nice!:cheers:
 
72ScampTramp said:
Does it hurt anything to do short sections rather then walking the panel?
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The only thing I walk the length with is candies.

Do a panel at a time but be sure to flick your wrists in the direction you are moving at the end of each stroke and release the fluid trigger at the end keeping the air flowing through the nozzle.(First part of your trigger is air, second is fluid) Move your overlap and work in the opposite direction on the panel in the same steps as above. This will keep the materials from building up on the ends of the panels causing runs in most instances.

Really hard to explain. Wish you were closer! I would show you.
 
He is using a pressure pot for sure! He hauls azzzz too!
He is spraying Urethane S/S..

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upJ5m5xkg-g"]How to paint a car. It's easy. Paint job painter and HVLP paint gun. - YouTube[/ame]
 
wow he was laying it down fast. First step is to get it back down. Ill work on that this week. And get it ready for next weekend to paint.
 
73AbodEE said:
Daaamm is right , mine didnt dump on like that !
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One coat wonders! LoL!!

Thats Maaco for ya! Another reason the job doesn't last! I was just using it for reference. Just slow down to a pace that fits.
I bet he is using a 1.8 tip. Hosing it on! LoL...
 
CUUDAK said:
One coat wonders! LoL!!

Thats Maaco for ya! Another reason the job doesn't last! I was just using it for reference. Just slow down to a pace that fits.
I bet he is using a 1.8 tip. Hosing it on! LoL...
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LOL that and 95 PSI !!
 
I know I put it on dry. Sitting here thinking about the process and watching some videos. I tried to be too careful not to run it. But instead ended up not getting enough on and overlapping more like I should have. Ill try it again what the heck its only money right! I might go back to the harbor freight gun. I didnt like the TCP Global gun I used.
 
72ScampTramp said:
I know I put it on dry. Sitting here thinking about the process and watching some videos. I tried to be too careful not to run it. But instead ended up not getting enough on and overlapping more like I should have. Ill try it again what the heck its only money right! I might go back to the harbor freight gun. I didnt like the TCP Global gun I used.
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i got my gun adjusted, pressure and technic down on an old trunk lid before i shot the car. it really helped so i wasnt flying blind when i started. the underneath of your deck lid looked great, did that turn out all right?
 
73AbodEE said:
i got my gun adjusted, pressure and technic down on an old trunk lid before i shot the car. it really helped so i wasnt flying blind when i started. the underneath of your deck lid looked great, did that turn out all right?
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Yes it did actually. And that was done with a different gun.
 
73AbodEE said:
i was worried yesterday when he said he wasnt using reducer.
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me too, but all my experience is with acrylic enamel so I don't know the way urethane's work- whether some may come pre-reduced or something...


...you know, like the 'pre-mixed coolant' you can buy, so you can pay extra for the water:D


edit- and I figured the 'ripples' mentioned in the first post were spray strokes, but I wasn't sure...best part is, it's an easy fix and the cut and buff on the final coat will still look great.
 
95teetee said:
me too, but all my experience is with acrylic enamel so I don't know the way urethane's work- whether some may come pre-reduced or something...


...you know, like the 'pre-mixed coolant' you can buy, so you can pay extra for the water:D


edit- and I figured the 'ripples' mentioned in the first post were spray strokes, but I wasn't sure...best part is, it's an easy fix and the cut and buff on the final coat will still look great.
Click to expand...

i didnt realize TCP changed up their single stage recipe. why , i have no clue. i always thought the urethane and acrylic were the same mix with their respective reducers. it must be a one mix sprays all type of deal now lol
 
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