What kind of horsepower to expect 383 build

Discussion in 'Big Block A body Tech' started by 340dartley, Apr 27, 2018.

  1. moper

    moper FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    It means that unless the engine was carefully blueprinted during machining, the pistons you have will not be yielding "as advertised". Nothing personal meant - it's just one of the problems of building a barnstormer 383 vs a 383. If the compression ratio was verified by measuring the chamber size and calculating the volume based on the piston in the bore, and the volume of the compressed gasket, then it was blueprinted. I think the choice of cams was unfortunate. I've run a .509 in a "plain" 383 and even with a 4* advancing it was not what it could have been. I would suggest you not worry about the power level at this point. It's fresh, put it in and in an A body you will have a smile on your face.
     
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    • 340dartley

      340dartley Well-Known Member

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      I didn’t take offense to the statement. I did not understand what you were saying. Thought you were saying since it has 11.5 it won’t run.
      Anyway the compression ratio I calculated using an online calculator. It has been some time since I went through my compression ratio figures but I have my head cc at 88ccs. I was looking for the dome volume specs but with the age of the pistons I was not able to find it. I estimated dome volume between 19 and 20 ccs. With the calculator I used it came through at 11.3 to 11.4 to 1.
       
    • 340dartley

      340dartley Well-Known Member

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      As far as cam choice, If I was selecting a new cam then I would have gone with something else. I had this one and I got tired of having this motor partially assembled. I will probably change the cam and heads at a later date as funds allow. The car has been down for 8 years. Currently sitting in my driveway with engine out about a year. At this point I want to start it and drive it.
       
    • B3RE

      B3RE B³ Racing Engines

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      I used to run that exact combination in a 68 Dart GTS back in the eighties. The car was about 3000 lbs with me in it, and ran 11.80's @ 108 with a 4.56:1 gear and 28" slicks. There was a lot wrong with that car, and it probably had a bit more in it, but I pretty dumb at 19.

      I have a fresh version of that motor, with a modern cam and some other parts, and with the TRWs at zero deck, 906s with a .030" cut (don't remember the ccs), and 1009 gaskets, it measures exactly 11.8:1 CR.
       
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      • General Disarray

        General Disarray Active Member

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      • Marcohotrod

        Marcohotrod Well-Known Member

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        maybe 435. ignore the negative nancys and run it. start with the 750 carb, 35 or so total advance. it may run on pump gas, depends on weight, trans, rear gear etc. my car is a blueprinted 11.4 and runs on 92 octane, with quench, open chamber iron heads
         
      • Abodybomber

        Abodybomber Breaking street machines , since 1983.....:)

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        The 19 year old combination, sounds like Direct Connection recommended recipe. ..
         
      • B3RE

        B3RE B³ Racing Engines

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        Yeah, I got the motor with the car. Someone followed the recipe for sure.
        The chassis was laughable on that car. Super Stock springs moved inboard, and ladder bars welded solid to the rear. I had to run 8lbs of pressure in the slicks, and steer the car all the way down the track. Pretty scary ride. I found out later the relocated frame rails were about to break apart from bad welds. I'm lucky to be alive.
         
      • 340dartley

        340dartley Well-Known Member

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        I will be running it. I wound up getting pulled away from it today but hopefully will be lowering the engine in tomorrow. Still a few small details to work out aka pullys and what not but once the motor is in the start will come soon. Here is a pic of the engine sitting ready in my garage. Excuse the mess.

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        • 340dartley

          340dartley Well-Known Member

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          The carb is just there to block the hole in the intake. Not the one I plan to run.
           
        • 340dartley

          340dartley Well-Known Member

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          Well after installing the engine today and hooking most things up, I have run into a snag. Threads pulled out of one of the torque converter boss. So now I have to either attempt to repair the threads in the vehicle or pull the transmission and swap out the converter.
           
        • 340dartley

          340dartley Well-Known Member

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          I got it installed this week and started it up. The good news is it runs and sounds very good. The bad news is the radiator started to leak after running for 10 minutes or so. 2 cracks developed in the top tank. I have to pick up some acid core solder and repair the radiator. I have a few bugs in the tune up to work out and some more things to fix before she is ready for a test drive. I need to drain and clean the fuel tank. I thought I drained it a long time ago but I shined a flashlight in the filler and saw some fuel still in the tank. It is currently running off of a rubber hose into a gas can full of 100ll av gas.
           
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          • Dartswinger70

            Dartswinger70 Well-Known Member

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            Oh, I cant be really sure, but Im thinking 10,000 horsepower, and 8,000 Ft. Lb of torque...
             
          • 340dartley

            340dartley Well-Known Member

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            Would be cool but I will probably come up a bit short. Lol
             
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            • Marcohotrod

              Marcohotrod Well-Known Member

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              What did u do about the converter bolt?
               
            • 340dartley

              340dartley Well-Known Member

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              I made some home made taps out of some bolts. Cleared the threads deaper in the mounting pads and sourced some slightly longer bolts. It is all tight now. Here is my home made tap

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            • 340dartley

              340dartley Well-Known Member

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              My biggest concern now is the radiator which is cracked in the upper tank. If I can either get it repaired or replaced I will have it running soon. This is 1 of the 3 cracks I have. I attempted to soldier it but was unable to get it to seal. Time to take it to a radiator shop.

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