what oil to use

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Machine lifter bores?

>That it?
>Big job?
>Where would I get specs?
>Would changing heads be easier?
 
OK NOT TO STIR UP THE POT BUT------ i just watched a show called how its made,,,,low and behold it was a story on the making of auto oil filters,,,,

and the brand showed,,FRAM,,, only card board was the inner filter,with a metal mesh tube screen to support the paper filter,both end caps were sealed with a sealant, and the ends welded to the drain back plate and screw on plate,
didnt see any card board end caps,,and it was the standard orange filter,not a tough guard

just passing along what i witnessed
 
Do some google searches and see what everyone is saying about Frams. I just did a few different searches..."how fram filters are made", "fram filters good or bad" and a couple other searches and found tons of car sites from LS1 sites to Kia sites about Fram and issues and horror stories. Here is a motorcycle guy who cut the ends off a bunch of filters and shows the inner workings http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml. Check out all the filters he cut open on the left.

I dont have anything against Fram or have they ever cause me any problems that I know of, but after having my engine builder tell me to stay away from them and reading everything I have on the web I wont ever personally use one.
 
Machine lifter bores?

>That it?
>Big job?
>Where would I get specs?
>Would changing heads be easier?

If you are asking if doing the actual work of changing a set of heads is an easier job then having your lifter bores worked for a roller set up... reworking the lifter bores is the more difficult.

The lifter bores are machined out then fitted with inserts (if it is done right). The reason is that you would now be using roller lifters and the tolerance specs for them are more precise.
 
Thanks for that info ... sounds reasonable to me. BTW - anyone use zMax oil or fuel treatment? I just saw it on two-guys garage last week and checked it out on the website. I am not much on additives, but I am curious.
 
i aslo seen the two guys garage on the Z MAX ,,looks intresting,,,but i two dont believe to much in aditives,, but it would be great if there was an additive that really worked,,,maybe ill buy a bottle of ZMAX,,, por it on a piece of flat stock,,se if it disappears in to it,,
 
Dave Reher of Reher & Morrison just wrote an article in the National Dragster on motor oil. For their sportsman engines they recommend 10W30. PennGrade, formerly Kendall, has a a synthetic blend that many engine builders recommend. They also carry a break-in oil. 55 passes and internals look great. Price is good too.
 
fstfish66 said:
i aslo seen the two guys garage on the Z MAX ,,looks intresting,,,but i two dont believe to much in aditives,, but it would be great if there was an additive that really worked,,,maybe ill buy a bottle of ZMAX,,, por it on a piece of flat stock,,se if it disappears in to it,,
Click to expand...

I don't know how you'd know whether or not it sunk in or not. You could pour a bottle of alcohol on a piece of metal and it would evaporate quickly, but of course, it would not sink into the metal.
 
On another note ...

I think that I had mentioned (I can't remember for sure, so I certainly can't expect anyone else to either ;-) that I put Rotella-T in my engine, on previous recommendation from others - only to be told that Rotella-T has been changed from CI-4 to CJ-4, thus lowering the ZDDT content and making it less desirable than previously.

Well I forgot to mention that I went and checked the container and it certainly is still CI-4!

Is this just an old container from an old batch?

Just in Advance Auto Parts yesterday picking up oil for my Concorde and noticed they had a good stock of Rotella-T ... and it's all CI-4. ~ $2/qt at that.
 
There is not much difference in the additive levels between CI and CJ HDEOs.

Ted, what part of the Allpar article do you believe has not been updated? The second paragrapgh starts out mentioning SM. API SM rating was introduced in 2004 and is NOT a diesel oil rating.

Mentioning SM and GF4 in the same sentance much less saying something like "SM/GF4" is misleading and inaccurate. API and ILSAC are two different, unrelated organizations. Their ratings are not similar at all and certainly not interchangeable.
 
Ace said:
There is not much difference in the additive levels between CI and CJ HDEOs.

Ted, what part of the Allpar article do you believe has not been updated? The second paragrapgh starts out mentioning SM. API SM rating was introduced in 2004 and is NOT a diesel oil rating.

Mentioning SM and GF4 in the same sentance much less saying something like "SM/GF4" is misleading and inaccurate. API and ILSAC are two different, unrelated organizations. Their ratings are not similar at all and certainly not interchangeable.
Click to expand...


If one uses an oil that is CI-4 rated one does not need be concerned about the difference btwn CI-4 and CJ-4, correct?
 
Ace said:
I repeat: SM is NOT a diesel oil rating.
Click to expand...

That is true but most of the diesel oils out there also have a gasoline rating. For example; Shell Rotella T with Triple protection besides being CI-4 it's also SM rated. Which means it has to meet all the requirements for both.
 
Ace said:
Not in a 60s-70s era gasser.
Click to expand...

I have no idea what you mean, why you answered that way or what you are trying to say by that statement - it's completely out of context.
 
dgc333 said:
That is true but most of the diesel oils out there also have a gasoline rating. For example; Shell Rotella T with Triple protection besides being CI-4 it's also SM rated. Which means it has to meet all the requirements for both.
Click to expand...

Which is the only reason it was suggested to me and that I am using it, thank you.
 
one thing i can say about this site, when you want to know about something i can find out anything in 5 mins, never thought this post would go this far
 
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