what oil to use

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dgc333 said:
That is true but most of the diesel oils out there also have a gasoline rating. For example; Shell Rotella T with Triple protection besides being CI-4 it's also SM rated. Which means it has to meet all the requirements for both.
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Exactly. So what isn't true if it is also SM rated, Ted?
 
"Ive spent countless hours Reading many forums & website & Mags on these issues & ive come to the Conclusion that its ALL Propaganda each company just trying to out do there opposition & sell there product!!

I Think All ive learnt now is that Im more confused than ever on this subject..

One thing we can be sure of is Regular oil & Filter changes at more regular periods has to be Good,Keep that oil looking clean all the Time..LOL

One thing i do know I Dont Blame any oil for any engine damage if engine damage occurs its more likely to be caused by a Number of other issues,ie Bad Assembly incorrect measurements within engine like Bearing gaps,Poor block prep & cleaning,Metal filings still hidden in oils galleries,etc,Or just wear & Tear..

Over here on the otherside of the World in New Zealand,We dont see half the Brands yor've mentioned like i.e Shell Rotella etc,Unless its Under another name,But I can get Kendall & Amsoil just not to sure what label they trade under here,But ive been Using a Fully synthetic oil like Castrol EDGE for the last few years in All my V8s & Never had a Problem & I change oil & Filter Very Regular & always do All Together usaully at 2500 to 3000Ks. & I dont really care if i use a Fram or Valvoline or Ryco oil filters,I just use whats avalible."Beggers cant be Choosers you Know"LOL
"Just my 2 cents":thumblef:
 
I am sure all the pro racers are just throwing their money away on racing oil and filters. After all, any oil from any store is cool as long as its clean :dontknow:
 
Pro Racers are looking for any edge that will help them win a race. If using an oil or filter that would absolutly ruin an engine in 3000 miles of road use they would gladly do it if it reduced friction enough for a 0.001 reduction in lap times.

Your statement is akin to saying apples make better pies so oranges are junk.
 
Racers are using very fast high lift cams, you ask any of them if zinc is needed for the cam to last they say of course.

This same topic has been on speedtalk-were pro racers are on-they think these oil company's are full of it saying non roller cams are fine using the smog oil sold in the stores today, even for everyday cars.

I been using not street legal oil in my motor for a year and a half, have no problems at all, maybe I am wasting my money, maybe not. I rather be safe than sorry. My motor gets rev to just over 6000 rpms almost everyday too.
 
I can't think of any pro race series where they use a flat tappet cam, it's all rollers which the zinc or lack there of is a non-issue.

Nothing wrong with using race oil as long as you are changing real often since they don't typically have the same level of detergents and other additives needed for the oil to last in a street car application.

Also, if you are getting your "race" oil at a local part store chain it likely has an API service rating like Valvoline VR1 which comes in "off road" and API version. I have never seen VR1 on the shelf of a parts store that didn't have the API SM rating which means it doesn't have any more zinc than any other SM rated oil.
 
Actually the ZDDP levels in Shell Rotella T drop a considerable amount from the CI-4 to the newer CJ-4 (triple protection stuff that is also rated "SM")!
 
I did see some Kendall GT-1 oils at my local Advance Auto Parts store, it was stocked in 10w30, 10w40 and 20w50 weights and all were rated as API "SL" .

Does anyone know if these are any good?
 
Nope, I get it off Amazon and its the not street legal Valvoine. You are right about pros using roller cams but they also build motors for their customers and them selfs not everybody can afford a roller cam or think its neede for a street motor.

Some of these guys claim they can run 12-1 compression too with pump gas with the right cam and they are talking 250 @.050 for a nice "mild" street motor.

I am just say what I seen, they won't touch these oils you can buy at a reg. store anymore. Maybe they are nuts, maybe I am too.

I leave the oil in 4-6 months too, like I said, no problems so far.
 
dodge freak said:
I use Valvoline "not street legal" oil, might be over kill but better to be safe than sorry.

My motor been rebuilt 6 years old and like 30,000 miles on it. When a swap heads last month I looked at the cam-did not remove it,just looking at it, seemed it look fine. All lobes seem to look the same.

Amazon sells it but they get sold out now and then.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_g...ds=Valvoline+"not+street+legal"+oil&x=13&y=21
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Bump for those who do not read old posts, I was using VR-1 until like a year and a half ago.
 
"Don't care".

I use Amsoil in everything I own, in whatever grade it needs. So far I have had no problems. I live near a regional warehouse and have access to people who have worked for them for 20+ years with lots of personal experience.

If it's good enough for the manager to run in his personal Lola chassis SCCA car (185+ mph go kart :-D ) I think it'll work just fine in my 360.
 
Summitar said:
Actually the ZDDP levels in Shell Rotella T drop a considerable amount from the CI-4 to the newer CJ-4 (triple protection stuff that is also rated "SM")!
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As per my post # 139 ...

"Just in Advance Auto Parts yesterday (ed: that was the 7th of Jan, 2008) picking up oil for my Concorde and noticed they had a good stock of Rotella-T ... and it's all CI-4. ~ $2/qt at that."
 
dodge freak said:
Well heres a 4 oz bottle that you can add on each oil change--for us who believe the motors could use it--I think it would not hurt to use in ALL motors but $10 a tiny bottle is not too cheap..

http://www.zddplus.com/
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Found it for a little cheaper then 10 dollars a bottle but still have to pay shipping and handling. http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock...gine&mscssid=00CD3BA2844DAA4E6B9631EFDFE45C4D

Also about the FRAM filters, I looked at a cartridge filter made by FRAM and one by Purolator and they look the same and they felt the same. Those you can look at where as the spin on type unless you cut it open you don't know.
 
i love this thread i never thought i could learn half this much when i posted it thanks to everybody for your effort in finding good oils, filters and additives , this site and its members rock!
 
I use Mobil 1 for the cold weather start up protection and superior high heat durability. My VW burned 1 qt every 2000 miles when I bought it used. I switched to Mobil 1 and after 2 oil changes, it only burns a quart every 6000 miles.

Go to Walmart. Mobil 1 in a 5 quart jug for $22

You can't beat it.
 
dodge freak said:
I use Valvoline "not street legal" oil, might be over kill but better to be safe than sorry.

My motor been rebuilt 6 years old and like 30,000 miles on it. When a swap heads last month I looked at the cam-did not remove it,just looking at it, seemed it look fine. All lobes seem to look the same.

Amazon sells it but they get sold out now and then.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_g...ds=Valvoline+"not+street+legal"+oil&x=13&y=21
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Bump once again, this time from page 4
 
NO BUT MOST diesel oils also met SM spec for gas engines

Ace said:
There is not much difference in the additive levels
between CI and CJ HDEOs.

Ted, what part of the Allpar article do you believe has not been updated? The second paragrapgh starts out mentioning SM. API SM rating was introduced in 2004 and is NOT a diesel oil rating.

Mentioning SM and GF4 in the same sentance much less saying something like "SM/GF4" is misleading and inaccurate. API and ILSAC are two different, unrelated organizations. Their ratings are not similar at all and certainly not interchangeable.
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any one using mobil 1 experienceing more then usuall oil leaks or gaskets seaping ???
 
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