What oil?

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V

VegasJetta

65 Dart GT
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Oct 31, 2007
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Hey guys, what oil should I be running in my 65 GT with a 225?
I have been out of the loop for almost 10 years, and I can't remember what I ran in my old cars....
 
I run 15w 40 Rotella in mine. Bit thick on cold starts, but cheap and good stuff.
 
Whooo boy.
What motor oil?
Might be a can of worms.
Look, it's a 225?
We know that it will run on dogdishwater with sawdust in the pan.
The INDISTRUCTABLE MOPAR.
But if you want to pamper it: Synthetic.
Mobil One is the orginal. The Moble reps will tell you that syn doesn't ever wear out. But they make money on selling oil. Contamination is the killer.
The molecules of syn. are more consistant them petroleum based. Smaller too.
I just found today that Mobile has a "high mileage" syn on the market.
Bought a gallon of it.
A lube specilist told me about switching to syn after lossing a cam shaft due to extream cold and no flow of regular oil at start up.
And the most important thing I have read is to get the narrowest range of oil you can get by with.
The wider the range the more it has been "diluted" with viscosity indecies increasers.
That means less oil for the lube.

You didn't ask but use syn grease too!
You don't need the Valvoline brand.
It has the black Moly in it for EP.
Not necessary and messy.
Get red Mobile One at Auto Zone.

Syn grease is compatible with other all other types.
It is high temp, water proof and Extream Pressure.
So you only have to buy one type.
I picked that up in a facilities engineering mag.

Now go out and take on the day.
Drive that car.
 
ok, good!

Now, Adriver, you mention grease...
I totally forgot there are greasable zirks on these cars, is that the syn grease you are referring to?
 
just my personal opinion but i find that if you use synthetic oil and your car leaks any oil the synthetic leaks out much faster than conventional oil. If you have a new motor and run synthetic oil from the beginning then i believe in it but the other thing is you cant break in an engine on synthetic oil the manufacturers dont reccomend it so if you have an older /6 and it leaks a little oil like most do i would just run conventional oil myself but again that is my personal opinion. Justin
 
conventional

Mobil 1 is the #1 oil out there

i like castrol myself...i believe its ranked #3
 
When customers on the used car lot would ask what oil I recomend, I'd tell 'em "Johnson & johnsons' ...I don't care if you put baby oil in it long as you keep it changed."
 
jjr426 said:
just my personal opinion but i find that if you use synthetic oil and your car leaks any oil the synthetic leaks out much faster than conventional oil. If you have a new motor and run synthetic oil from the beginning then i believe in it but the other thing is you cant break in an engine on synthetic oil the manufacturers dont reccomend it so if you have an older /6 and it leaks a little oil like most do i would just run conventional oil myself but again that is my personal opinion. Justin
Click to expand...

Sorry Justin, you're close but no cigar. There was a problem with north american engines, 10 yrs. ago, that if you ran synthetic before the engine had 10K on it there was a possibility that the rings wouldn't seat completely. That's no longer a concern, or so says the Pontiac and Dodge dealers and as a matter a fact a lot of the engines are coming out with synthetic already in the engine right from the factory like my wifes new Accord. I've been running Mobil 1 in my vehicles since the early 80's primarily for the reason that as soon the engine starts you've got oil pressure especially in the winter when the wife forgets to plug the block heater in. As an example 5W30 mobil 1 has a pour point of minus 35 whereas conventional 5W30 is sludge at minus 35. Also since synthetics don't break down as easy as convential the engine stays cleaner longer internally, no nasty sludge build up under the valve covers.

Terry
 
Yes, use Mobil One syn grease.
Syn is compatible with all types that may be in the car.
Greases need to be compatable so not to break down.
Any syn is ok, but being from an aircraft background I like Mobil.
(MDouglas. Boeing uses green or black for high temp landing gear brakes assys. I think that is too much information though).

Now as far as syn oil leaking, it does not cause leaks.
Like I said the molecule is smaller and therefore it will FIND a leak worse that other oils.
But then figure it gets to the parts it needs to lube better for the same reason.
 
i agree I am not saying synthetic causes leaks but if your motor leaks conventional oil a little it will surely leak synthetic. As far as demon seeds response that may be true now but last i remember no break ins with synthetic so i am not sure. But i do agree with redfish oil type is not as big of a concern as just changing it every 3k. Justin
 
demon seed said:
. Also since synthetics don't break down as easy as convential the engine stays cleaner longer internally, no nasty sludge build up under the valve covers.

Terry
Click to expand...

I'm gonna take some demerits on this one.
I HAD a 79 Civic for years for a commuter :eek:ops:
I rebuilt the engine after 120 thousand.
After the rebuild I ran syn exclusively.
At 80k a main bearing went.
It was sludged up just as bad with the syn as the first time with regular oil.
What I THINK is going on is that engines are cleaner these days, period.
That was a carborated old tech engine and I just THINK it was less efficient engine. Loose clearances and all that.
Again, I just think this one.
 
adriver said:
I'm gonna take some demerits on this one.
I HAD a 79 Civic for years for a commuter :eek:ops:
I rebuilt the engine after 120 thousand.
After the rebuild I ran syn exclusively.
At 80k a main bearing went.
It was sludged up just as bad with the syn as the first time with regular oil.
What I THINK is going on is that engines are cleaner these days, period.
That was a carborated old tech engine and I just THINK it was less efficient engine. Loose clearances and all that.
Again, I just think this one.
Click to expand...

Actually adriver I had the exact opposite experience a few years back. I rebuilt a chev 350 and a toyota V6 a few years back and both had been running synthetics most of there lives (150K and 200K) and I was amazed by how clean they were inside. I happened to mention that to a Chemist with Exxon (I'm not dropping names I'm just telling the story) and he said that was normal. I think the biggest mistake made with synthetics is people think they can run it forever. The oil still gets dirty and contaminated with fuel and water and chicken **** and small stones LOL so it still needs to be changed regularily like 6-8K miles.

Terry

Terry
 
Just curious.
How many years is a few?
My civic story at at least ten.
In other words were they "newer" engines.

And was either or both of the engines injected.
I'm sure there are a variables.
How much ring blowby.

Temperature is a big factor as I recall.

Does the valve cover stay hot or cold?
I think that might cause the deposits we see.

And is the engine operating temperature a factor?
We know new engines run hotter.



And of course, syn just MAY cause less deposits.
Certainly plausible.

I'm running it now in my 86 318 with a Q-Jet. My rocker's sure look clean through the hole.
 
adriver said:
Just curious.
How many years is a few?
My civic story at at least ten.
In other words were they "newer" engines.

And was either or both of the engines injected.
I'm sure there are a variables.
How much ring blowby.

Temperature is a big factor as I recall.

Does the valve cover stay hot or cold?
I think that might cause the deposits we see.

And is the engine operating temperature a factor?
We know new engines run hotter.



And of course, syn just MAY cause less deposits.
Certainly plausible.
Click to expand...

I'm to old and my memory ain't so good but the 350 was 6 years ago and throttle body and the V6 was about 8 yrs ago and fuel injection. My main point was I've noticed on the back of some of the bottles of sythetic that they say it can go 15K - 20K between oil changes and think that's crap. The way it was explained to me, so I could understand it, is that "true synthetic" oil is made of identical carbon molecules whereas conventional has dissimmalar (not the same) , spelling sucks, carbon molecules. The bond between identical molecules is stronger so it doesn't break down as easy (sludge) and is more stable at higher temperatures and doesn't thicken up as fast at lower temeratures, at least that's the story.

Terry
 
Well, I live in Vegas where the temp never really goes below 40 degrees, so I am not really worried about 'cold starts' so much. I run Castrol 20W50 in my VW year round here, those motors demand it. I am guessing that as stated, the 10W30 of any brand will suffice for the 225 - 6.

Its been a while since I used a grease gun, are they readily available at stores still? I don't even know if my friends shop has one...
 
I had a '71 Chrysler 300 back in the day that had around 90,000 miles on it ... It used a quart of oil between changes, which I did at 2000 miles ... I switched to Mobil 1, about the time it came out I believe, and the car wouldn't go 500 miles w/o needing a quart ...

Just my opinion, but I think it's wise to stick with whatever type/brand oil you've always used, but most importanly just CHANGING motor oil on a regular basis is the cheapest insurance out there ....

That being said, with SOOO many choices out there today I'll still probably try using synthetic in the 340 just for the hell of it, and I'm sure it's better quality these days ... My SRT8 Charger came with Mobil 1 from the factory, and that't probably all I'll ever put into it, every 2000 miles .. (My Grandfather would be rolling over in his grave!! He used to give me crap about changing oil so often and threatened to take it from my motors and put it into his !!) :thumleft:
 
I only use Mobil-1 after years of trying almost all supposed high quality oils.

And as far as the leaking my 340 had a very small leak with conventional oil and after I switched it to Mobil-1 it quit leaking at all.
 
The 71 300 story brought back something an old time Mopar mechanoc told me 30 years ago. He said that the big block would always burnoff the top(5th) quart of oil. I looked at him funny and he said that the crankshaft picked it up(windage) and slung it up on the walls so the rings were overloaded. When the level dropped the windage was not a problem so it stopped using until the next change. He never added any oil to his engines and the cars rotted away before the engines died.

Back to now. I use 15/40 Rotella in the older "to work" drivers and Mobil 1 in the newer "Sunday" cars.

Having opened up all sorts of engines from all sorts of drivers and all brands of oil It is my opinion that there aren't any "bad" oils just bad changers. Around here Qu St oil has a very bad reputation. Havoline very good. Adjusting the change interval to the driver's driving habits and type of driving makes more sense than time or mileage specs do. For instance my Comanche goes 3 m to work and 3 m home twice daily. Hasn't been out of the city limits for several months. Town is 5 m long! 5K and it can be recycled as chassis lube.

Good post! Let's hear some more.
 
I used to use 10-40w Valvoline in most everything but with the old engines that depend on leaded gas and other heavy metals, I now use Rotella 15-40w.
 
Dart-swinger said:
I only use Mobil-1 after years of trying almost all supposed high quality oils.

And as far as the leaking my 340 had a very small leak with conventional oil and after I switched it to Mobil-1 it quit leaking at all.
Click to expand...

What weight Mobil 1 do you use in your 340 ??
 
I would use Mobil 1 synthetic with a bottle of the HUGES RACING EGINE ADDITIVE in there for protection also. That stuff from HUGHES is SLICKER THAN well I will let that slide but it is some GOOD STUFF! It sure made me a believer. I keep a whole case of it for all my older engines!
 
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