What parts are worth keeping off of a /6

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71DodgeDemon340

71DodgeDemon340

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Hey guys i had to pick up my /6 and transmission from my dads work where it has been sitting since we pulled it out of the demon. It has been sitting under a tarp for the past 6 or 8 years, not sure the condition of the internals but it ran when it was pulled from the car. My question is what parts are worth keeping? I have no immediate plans for it but i was going to at least tear it down to the bare block and put it on a engine stand so its easy to move. Its a date 10-10-70 block. I figured only thing worth keeping is the crank? Intake and exhaust manifold im assuming arent worth keeping? Cam, push rods, valvetrain, pistons all probably not worth hanging onto?

IMG_1652.jpeg


IMG_1653.jpeg
 
Valve train,& cover , brackets, Carb, manifold hardware , kickdown linkage, rest is boat anchor
 
Carb is toast lol it is completely white inside with corrosion, i did open the oil fill cap and there is definitely heavy rust on the rocker arms. I should of pickled the engine when we removed it. I know if it was to be rebuilt that everything minus the crank would need to be replaced
 

71DodgeDemon340 said:
Hey guys i had to pick up my /6 and transmission from my dads work where it has been sitting since we pulled it out of the demon. It has been sitting under a tarp for the past 6 or 8 years, not sure the condition of the internals but it ran when it was pulled from the car. My question is what parts are worth keeping? I have no immediate plans for it but i was going to at least tear it down to the bare block and put it on a engine stand so its easy to move. Its a date 10-10-70 block. I figured only thing worth keeping is the crank? Intake and exhaust manifold im assuming arent worth keeping? Cam, push rods, valvetrain, pistons all probably not worth hanging onto?

View attachment 1716459182

View attachment 1716459181
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Actually, wrong on most counts, cam is a good core to have a performance regrind, lifters are keepers for sure & can be refaced. Rockers & shaft, straight pushrods as well, really the whole thing maybe ready to run with a little prep. I'm not sure if Shane would be interested in it, if He's still in TN, & He doesn't frequent here anymore but I'll tag Him... @dart19666
Put it in the Mechanical Parts for Sale Forum & offer it whole or parts, most times it's proximity to those interested that is the hangup.
 
71DodgeDemon340 said:
Carb is toast lol it is completely white inside with corrosion, i did open the oil fill cap and there is definitely heavy rust on the rocker arms. I should of pickled the engine when we removed it. I know if it was to be rebuilt that everything minus the crank would need to be replaced
Click to expand...
Lol, well, that's all fixable I doubt that it's that bad...unless water was pouring into the head & into the crankcase, then the crank could be screwed as well.
 
Im hoping thats not the case, it does still have oil in it, i will update with pics when i do the tear down
 
Just remember nothing for that engine is being made anymore. I would keep any thing I had room for. Even bolts and other hardware. Granted some of the stuff can be replaced with aftermarket (high dollar) stuff, but for a stock or low performance rebuild, stock parts (low dollar) are fine.
 
There was a guy here that was quite insistent that he HAD TO HAVE Specifically a 1971 engine for some crazy reason. That's a 1971 engine. We keep telling him that they were all the exact same for so many years and a /6 powered car isn't critical to be " numbers matching"... See if he wants it. Other than that if it has a big "BH" cast in the driver side of the block there's something "special" about those, more nickel or something... Supposed to be the "strongest" block or something... I don't remember exactly what it was about them. Definitely a forged crank engine...
 
volaredon said:
There was a guy here that was quite insistent that he HAD TO HAVE Specifically a 1971 engine for some crazy reason. That's a 1971 engine. We keep telling him that they were all the exact same for so many years and a /6 powered car isn't critical to be " numbers matching"... See if he wants it. Other than that if it has a big "BH" cast in the driver side of the block there's something "special" about those, more nickel or something... Supposed to be the "strongest" block or something... I don't remember exactly what it was about them. Definitely a forged crank engine...
Click to expand...

Yeah
I think he’s in NY and is adamant about wanting a 71 engine

Tommy
 
Thanks for all the replies, i just figured if it was to be rebuilt that i would have it bored over which would require new pistons, im assuming aftermarket cams and valve terrain parts are available still for the /6? I will definitely keep all the internals, i need to get it at least up on a engine stand and remove the water pump and other stuff, i would like to tear it down to see the condition, so it does have a forged crank?

My long term dream would be to find a duster or dart to put it in and turbo it but thats not in the cards at the moment
 
The numbers stamped on the deck of the block were the alternator bracket attaches to the block, clean it off with some brake clean and give us the numbers, if there are no stampings then it may be a rebuilt and they machined the deck, or a service block has been used while it was under warranty.
 
71DodgeDemon340 said:
Hey guys i had to pick up my /6 and transmission from my dads work where it has been sitting since we pulled it out of the demon. It has been sitting under a tarp for the past 6 or 8 years, not sure the condition of the internals but it ran when it was pulled from the car. My question is what parts are worth keeping? I have no immediate plans for it but i was going to at least tear it down to the bare block and put it on a engine stand so its easy to move. Its a date 10-10-70 block. I figured only thing worth keeping is the crank? Intake and exhaust manifold im assuming arent worth keeping? Cam, push rods, valvetrain, pistons all probably not worth hanging onto?

View attachment 1716459182

View attachment 1716459181
Click to expand...
Look at the large rib behind the water pump housing o the block. That's how you tell it's a forged crank. The cast crank block is different there and has a less pronounced rib. The cranks are not interchangeable from cast crank block to forged crank block. That's a forged crank block. .....also, look at the pad where the cylinder head meets the block right behind the alternator. There's a pad of the block that sticks out with some stamped numbers on it. It will be something like "D225XXXX" if it's a 225. If it's a 198 it'll have 198 there. Same for 170. You can eliminate a 170 real quick by looking at the water pump bypass hose in the front. If it's about 4" long, it's a raised deck. A 198 or a 225. If it's only about 1" os so, it's a low deck. A 170. BUt look at the stamped numbers on that pad and you'll know for sure what it is.
 
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