What Products are Needed in the A-body world?

-
Well, I brought the 71 Valiant home. Finally found a complete car I can use for mock-up, and its not in too bad of shape really. 318 car, so it has the right Kmember already. It will be slow coming, but eventually I will be able to spend some time on this thing. First thing is to bomb it with a spider killer...YUCK!
I have a good idea of what you guys need/want. I'll do my best to meet peoples expectations. I need to get a couple customers cars out, and make some room. Pull the motor, and start bending some tubing. Thanks to all who have given their input. I'll do my best to fulfill and needs I am capable of.
Heres a couple pictures of the Valiant.
valiant.jpg


v4.jpg


v2.jpg


v3.jpg


v6.jpg


v7.jpg
 
Since I've seen alot of the torsion bar mounts rust out, why not, instead of having the stock type replacement frame peice that goes from driver to passenger subframe, a tubular peice that weld in with flat mounts on the ends, and flat sections to weld to the floor pan also? Kind of hard to explain just typing. That may help stiffen these cars up? Also, the torsion bar mounts themselves would be less prone to rusting, and be stiffer/stronger. (at least I would think so? lol). You could make a tubular transmission crossmember that could use the poly bushings, and even incorporate a built-in driveshaft loop? Just some ideas, it might make it more appealing to save cars that have some rust if you could not just repair it, but make it better than stock. I'm sure something like this would work hand in hand with Badarts products as well.

I also think the sway bar for relocated springs is a great idea.
 
Thanks guys. The floor pans have very slight surface rust, and the trunk floor looks perfect. I am a bit nervous about seeing whats under the vinyl top but it will have to be fixed at some point. Wheres the best place to buy sheetmetal panels?
metallidart- I emailed you back. I really like the idea...something I will look into as soon as I can get the car to my place and up in the air.
Keep the ideas coming! Im excited about all the ideas, and wish I didnt have to bring money in for the household...then I could do nothing but work on this thing and get products moving. I need to be retired, but at 23...that wont be for awhile. LOL.
Thanks to everyone!
 
A number of people have adapted turbochargers to the slant six engine, but a high threshold to fabricate the exhaust manifold. Some have cut-off the end of the factory cast iron manifold and welded an adapter. A tubular exhaust to a turbo mounting flange would make it much easier since people could take it from there with many aftermarket parts on the intake side. I don't know how standard turbo mounting flanges are. Nice if it would work with used turbos one can get cheap at the junkyard. Might be a nice market if you could get the price to <$300.

With a turbo, some run 11 sec 1/4 mile, which is really cool in a 6 cyl. It would also provide power while saving gas for daily drivers. Many people buy a slant six and install a V-8, but that usually entails changing the whole drivetrain and sometimes the whole suspension. For mockup, you can get a complete slant six engine almost free.
 
Kyle if you could build a small block thick flange, shorty, ball flange style header that actually fit these cars, then you would be busy for a very long time. Seriously. But then they would have to clear power steering, Z bar, torsion bar, mini starter, steering linkage and after market oil pan. Wow.
 
Badart said:
Kyle if you could build a small block thick flange, shorty, ball flange style header that actually fit these cars, then you would be busy for a very long time. Seriously. But then they would have to clear power steering, Z bar, torsion bar, mini starter, steering linkage and after market oil pan. Wow.
Click to expand...

Something I thought about as well. When you say shorty, do you mean something thats like the really short "block hugger" type headers that have the collector facing downward? Or something that still will snake through everything, and then be looking towards the back of the car?
I enjoy building headers, but they take FOREVER! I would have to piece them together out of multiple J-bends...so it would be really difficult to keep the price down.
 
How much interest would there be in a tubular transmission/torsion bar crossmember? I was told they rot out usually and need to be replaced anyways. I wasnt sure if people would like to drill all the factory spot welds or not? But then again, even if replacing the crossmember with a sheetmetal piece, you'd be drilling spot welds.
I would use poly bushings, and it would bolt in place. Would have to have plates cut for the torsion bar mounts, but that shouldnt be an issue.
Just thought Id see what everyone thought.
Thanks in advance!
 
Honestly the only missing part to a good front suspension is true fast ratio steering. A drivers header that will clear a fast ratio arm will do. A steering box with proper internals is a sig investment as I have looked into it already. I don't think the market will bear a steering box that is 8-900. The Thorley/TTI design and the Schumacker all neglected this.
 
Thanks guys! I appreciate it. Im glad to know someone else thinks the crossmember would be a good product. Does anyone else have any thing to say about that? Would it be the end of the world if you had to drill out all of your old spot welds to remove the factory crossmember?

If I were to build a K-member, with all aftermarket control arms and such...would everyone be against using all Mustang components? The parts for the Mustangs are RIDICULOUSLY cheap when compared to everything else out there...and parts are plentiful. It would use a Mustang spindle, and then I would build control arms from the Kmember, to the spindle. This would also allow for many brake setups, etc. This would incorporate the Mustang II rack and pinion also. Let me know what people think...

Thanks FABO! :)
 
the mustang deal would be nice except for the guys who have bought aftermarket brakes already but I think with the wilwood stuff you can buy just the hub and mounting brakets. I thought about doing this with my dart and putting the late model stang stuff with the struts. then you have no upper arms to deal with. and save some weight.
 
Worst part of the MII setup is the geometry within the spindle is not the best for handling. Can be made to work, but there are better platforms. On the other hand, not many guys here are going to be driving these cars to their handling limits and the benefits you mention likely outweigh the alternatives, particularly when it comes to cost.
 
curleysracecars said:
Thanks guys! I appreciate it. Im glad to know someone else thinks the crossmember would be a good product. Does anyone else have any thing to say about that? Would it be the end of the world if you had to drill out all of your old spot welds to remove the factory crossmember?

If I were to build a K-member, with all aftermarket control arms and such...would everyone be against using all Mustang components? The parts for the Mustangs are RIDICULOUSLY cheap when compared to everything else out there...and parts are plentiful. It would use a Mustang spindle, and then I would build control arms from the Kmember, to the spindle. This would also allow for many brake setups, etc. This would incorporate the Mustang II rack and pinion also. Let me know what people think...

Thanks FABO! :)
Click to expand...

Yes But there is a price thing involved here as well. RMS makes a kit that is pretty nice but it's huge money but includes everything you need for the swap so it's worth it. if you could make something that is able to be built in pieces instead of hey you need all this or it wont work then you have a winner.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I will have to look into it...as of now, I am having trouble with DMV and registering this Valiant...why does it always have to be so difficult?!!? LOL. What geometry is bad about the Mustang? I am not questioning at all...just trying to learn. What about using a Dakota spindle? That would allow you to use "Mopar" stuff, and finding the disk brake setups shouldnt be too hard. However, I do like the idea of some how reinforcing the inner fender, or making some sort of tubular mount and not having to build an upper control arm. Would just aid in keeping the costs down.
I need more input on the transmission crossmember...would this be appealing to people? I wouldnt question it so much, except the idea of having to drill out all of your current spot welds, removing the factory piece, and then have to weld some sort of mounting tabs on the factory subframe. Let me know.
 
Just wondering...what would everyone consider a "reasonable" cost for a tubular K-member and complete new front suspension similar to what MagnumForce sells? Dont tell me $500 either...LOL.
This would be everything including R&P, Mustang II spindles, tie rod ends, Strange single adjustable coilovers, upper and lower tubular control arms, tubular K-member...am I missing anything? I think it would be everything Magnum Force sells for $3500...

Tell me what would be reasonable. I have an idea of what I can do them for but dont want to scare people away, so I thought Id get others opinions.
Thanks!
 
Do you think think k-member, and A-arms could be made at a price close to what lets say the fox body mustang stuff goes for. Now on that same note a fox body mustang doesn't use upper a-arms so you have to figure that in. The alter-k kit isn't a bad price when you break it down to all the parts you get, but I do believe it is still alittle pricey. so lets actually break it down part wise for someone to realize just what you need or would get in a complet kit.
 
K-member break down of parts I know I will most likely miss something and everyone can shop and see what prices are on parts.

1) k-memeber
2) lower control arms
3) upper control arms
4) upper ball joints
5) lower ball joints
6) Brake kit
7) coil over shocks
8) rack and pinion
9) tie rods
10) steering column adapter
11) spindles
12) all mounting hardware depending on the use of heim ends or bushings

and this would be the parts list for a manual steering system no power which would increase the cost more.
I think that covers all the parts

now do the math on the parts and you will be amazed at how fast the bill will climb
 
I can come up with $1500 worth of parts fairly easy...just so people know. I thought about using the later model Mustang stuff, because it eliminates the upper control arm...but that would require some sort of reinforcement to the top of the shock tower to handle the load. I couldnt locate many spindle options for the later Mustangs either...any help?
 
How about putting together 4link kits for a bodies. As someone earlier mentioned about using Mopar parts how about a brake caliper bracket to user late model charger calipers.
 
I noticed a thread on here about how someone was using some really thick torsion bars, and they just ripped the socket right out of the subframe. That the factory welds weren't nearly strong enough. Couple that with the rust issues alot of our a-bodies have in that area, and in my opinion, its just going to keep getting worse. We are making the bodies much stronger and resistant to twisting, etc, but it is going to give somewhere, and that has to be one of the weak spots. I still think a stronger, tubular torsion bar crossmember is a great idea. I know I wouldn't be afraid to drill out some spotwelds, and not only make the car stiffer, like alot of our modifications are doing, but also improve the safety as well.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I will probably put the "entire front suspension" setup on hold...seems people dont want to pay for something. We'll see how it turns out. Anyways, I will have to look into the brackets for the charger rear brakes...that stuff is actually fairly easy, and should be relatively cheap once the R&D part is done.
As for a 4-link...I have pondered this as well. I'll have to get under my car and look, but I really dont think you could make anything that is "bolt-in", but building a kit that had everything included may be a hit. I would probably do something along the lines of a triangulated 4-link, because the standard 4-link setup is fairly easy to put together by anyone with a few magazines.
The idea of an aftermarket torsion bar crossmember, something tubular has come up before...I like the idea alot. It will just take a little time...getting the factory one out of the way, etc. This may be a seller once I can get them moving.
I also have thought about an anti-roll bar for the rear of these cars. They are made for the Camaro's, Mustangs and just about anything other cars out there that people race. This would have brackets that weld to the housing, as well as a bronze bearing housing that would bolt or weld to the inside of the rear frame rails. I am not sure how these would sell...but we'll see.
Thanks again guys! I really appreciate the input!
 
I think a bolt-in 4-link is do-able, although naturally anything welded in is better. The upper shock mount could be bolted in just like a tubular crossmemeber. The 4-link tabs could be done using 4 bolts to hold them in (yes, I know welded ones are best) & the tabs on the rear-end could be weld-on deal or have an extended tab that's contoured to the axle tubes & held on with U-bolts. Again not ideal, but do-able.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top