What RPM Will a stroker Crank hold?

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The aluminum rods are great parts. They'll work in anything. However, you have to build with them in mind. They do stretch at high rpm which is no big deal. They need to be handled carefully to avoid any nicks or marks on thier surface. They should be warmed up fully (if you're in a cold climate) Personally, in CT, I can't see them having issues even on the street over a few years. They and the bearings SHOULD be checked (involving disassembly and careful measurements) yearly IMO.
 
Yeah that would be the deal breaker for me.

I want to build the bottom end once! and play with the top end of the motor the rest of it's life.

Good point about care/handling of the alu rods.
 
i think iv had my 426 engin up to 8000 on the rev limmiter but i spent the exstra $$$ on balicing everthing 10,000 rpm and i like h beam rods better then i beam both are way better then stock , running your engin at theys rpm will shorten it life span a little after all you did not put out 12,000$ to run 5000 rpm did you if want to do that find a stock 360 throw 200 shot of spray at it and see how long it goes for .
 
Cudafever said:
Yeah that would be the deal breaker for me.

I want to build the bottom end once! and play with the top end of the motor the rest of it's life.

Good point about care/handling of the alu rods.
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If that is the case then over build your engine! I always over build my motors for the intended use. Example of this is my current 340 motor for my duster. This motor is so far from stock (the only thing stock is the block and the timing chain cover) I got:
Aluminum Ross Racing pistons
Eagle forged H-Beam Rods and Eagle forged Crank (with their ESP Armor)
Stud girdle (some argue you don't need it but it's cheap insurance and I use them in every build)
Crank scraper (Teflon bladed up and down stroke)
Milodon road race oil pan
Hyd roller cam (231/239 at .050" lift 110/106 lobe), roller lifters, comp pro mag roller rockers
Ferrea stainless steel valves, inside Edelbrock closed chamber heads (60779), Edelbrock air-gap intake, aluminum m/p valve covers, SFI balancer, SFI flexplate, timing chain tensioner, double roller timing chain on billet gears, hardened intermediate shaft, msd e-curve dizzy, and total seal gapless piston rings which is all bolted to together using the strongest arp bolts that are able to bolted in (I'm sure I missed some stuff but you get the idea).
Point is, this motor is built to withstand 1000+ but is only making ~400, this way I never have to worry about the breaking the motor.
 
1970Duster said:
If that is the case then over build your engine! I always over build my motors for the intended use. Example of this is my current 340 motor for my duster. This motor is so far from stock (the only thing stock is the block and the timing chain cover) I got:
Aluminum Ross Racing pistons
Eagle forged H-Beam Rods and Eagle forged Crank (with their ESP Armor)
Stud girdle (some argue you don't need it but it's cheap insurance and I use them in every build)
Crank scraper (Teflon bladed up and down stroke)
Milodon road race oil pan
Hyd roller cam (231/239 at .050" lift 110/106 lobe), roller lifters, comp pro mag roller rockers
Ferrea stainless steel valves, inside Edelbrock closed chamber heads (60779), Edelbrock air-gap intake, aluminum m/p valve covers, SFI balancer, SFI flexplate, timing chain tensioner, double roller timing chain on billet gears, hardened intermediate shaft, msd e-curve dizzy, and total seal gapless piston rings which is all bolted to together using the strongest arp bolts that are able to bolted in (I'm sure I missed some stuff but you get the idea).
Point is, this motor is built to withstand 1000+ but is only making ~400, this way I never have to worry about the breaking the motor.
Click to expand...

Yup that's how i fill too.

Look like a "Brick **** house" would have to start with R3 48* Bricks:D
that one will have to wait for a day that i have money to spare

For the power that i will make with this stroker, a cast crank will be plenty strong enough.....and Brian makes sence with it being a lighter rotating asembly.......and i really should do it!!!

I'm old school
Cast Cranks are not for racing!
It will be a forged stroker.........H or I beam rods, I'm still in the thought prosses.
and like robert 68 cuda said: both are way better then stock.
 
1970Duster said:
If that is the case then over build your engine! I always over build my motors for the intended use. Example of this is my current 340 motor for my duster. This motor is so far from stock (the only thing stock is the block and the timing chain cover) I got:
Aluminum Ross Racing pistons
Eagle forged H-Beam Rods and Eagle forged Crank (with their ESP Armor)
Stud girdle (some argue you don't need it but it's cheap insurance and I use them in every build)
Crank scraper (Teflon bladed up and down stroke)
Milodon road race oil pan
Hyd roller cam (231/239 at .050" lift 110/106 lobe), roller lifters, comp pro mag roller rockers
Ferrea stainless steel valves, inside Edelbrock closed chamber heads (60779), Edelbrock air-gap intake, aluminum m/p valve covers, SFI balancer, SFI flexplate, timing chain tensioner, double roller timing chain on billet gears, hardened intermediate shaft, msd e-curve dizzy, and total seal gapless piston rings which is all bolted to together using the strongest arp bolts that are able to bolted in (I'm sure I missed some stuff but you get the idea).
Point is, this motor is built to withstand 1000+ but is only making ~400, this way I never have to worry about the breaking the motor.
Click to expand...
Well this all sounds pretty close to my stroker build.I,m not sure if it matters how much you spent on good parts,the right parts,well known parts.It only takes 1 second for catistrophic failure.On saturday I went to the track and on my first pass,I hit second gear and Kapoot!!Thats right,my H-beam Eagle stroker kit came out the pan and block.Now there was no early notice,no noise...nothing.It just happened in the blink of an eye.This is after 192 passes in the 1/4 mile at W.O.T.I will report my findings once I pull it and disassemble.I,m sure glad its the end of race season.:wack:
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 375.jpg

View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 373.jpg
 
Interesting I wanna see what happened to the motor (also looks like you're going to need a new block).
 
ouch too...now i know why you need another block. If you don´t mind let us know what happened.

Good luck fixing this problem!

Michael
 
Not a pretty sight. My stroker runs out of power at 6000 so I doubt it will get revved much over that. I'll put in a 6500 pill.
 
ou812 said:
K1's 3.79 crank is a great piece for that!
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Im using a K1 3.79 crank, K1 6.125 rods and an off the shelf Diamond Forged Piston thats designed for a chebbie 383. The K1 crank has 2.1 chevy rod journals. The K1 rods have a .927 chevy pin. The 6.125 rod length was perfect for the pistons comp height. This nets me 387ci in a 360.
 
Well Scott you should take pride knowing you did make 192 pass trouble free.John Force would kill for that record.
 
pettybludart said:
Well this all sounds pretty close to my stroker build.I,m not sure if it matters how much you spent on good parts,the right parts,well known parts.It only takes 1 second for catistrophic failure.On saturday I went to the track and on my first pass,I hit second gear and Kapoot!!Thats right,my H-beam Eagle stroker kit came out the pan and block.Now there was no early notice,no noise...nothing.It just happened in the blink of an eye.This is after 192 passes in the 1/4 mile at W.O.T.I will report my findings once I pull it and disassemble.I,m sure glad its the end of race season.:wack:
View attachment 273117

View attachment 273118
Click to expand...
I don,t think it was the blocks fault,definetly a spun bearing.I have H-beam rods and ALL solid roller topend.Upon disassemble,first thing to see is my bend Manley pushrods,pulled the intake and down in the cam area I noticed what looks to be a wrist pin?:vom:Can,t really tell until I pull the engine and remove the pan.Hopefully I can salvage most of it for the next build:tard:
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 376.jpg

View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 380.jpg

View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 379.jpg

View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 377.jpg
 
Vary close examination, as you take it a part will hopefully tell you what happened.
Some times it's a "what came first the chicken or the egg."

Strain out all the junk in the pan and lay it on a rag, it may give you some more clues.

looking forward to the crank and head pictures.

hate seeing that happen!!
 
that really suck *** i hate seeing good engines destroyed just wondering did you have a stud girdle and studs or bolts.
 
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