What to do with my 360

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HOOCH

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Well im sure most of you have read my previous post about losing my motor. But now i get to start from scratch for a new build and i would like to build a pretty nasty lil SB. I plan on just pretty much streeting the car maybe one or 2 trips to the track but not that likely. So what are some possible motor configurations?

My thoughts...
.060 over
10.5:1 comp
.520-.585 lift roller cam set up
weiand xcelator intake
Demon carb 750-850
forged lower end
balanced, and knifed crank
tti headers
Should i stick with my "J" heads or different ones?
 
Porting J heads to that lift is a full porting and the head may not (IMO probably not) port out that well to take advantage of that much lift. I think at this point you would be better off with well ported Edelbrock heads.

I don see much in a knife edged crank cut for the street.

Roller cam? Solid or Hyd.?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Porting J heads to that lift is a full porting and the head may not (IMO probably not) port out that well to take advantage of that much lift. I think at this point you would be better off with well ported Edelbrock heads.

I don see much in a knife edged crank cut for the street.

Roller cam? Solid or Hyd.?
Click to expand...

That's another part I'm torn about, I know solid roller is the way to go but hydro roller so much less maintenance

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad
 
273's came factory with solid lifters. Were they really a ton of maintenance. Taking the valve covers off once a season is not a bad idea anyway. It'd be nice to catch that bad rocker, pushrod, etc before you grenade another motor. Maintenance is part of hot rodding. Don't be scared. Go Solid!!
 
Skip the knife edging and roller stuff IMO. Solid flat tappet, spend the coin on some head work instead.
 
moper said:
Skip the knife edging and roller stuff IMO. Solid flat tappet, spend the coin on some head work instead.
Click to expand...

There you go! Solid Flat Tappet and Head work is the ticket. Most guys run out of $$ doing the bottom end and cheap out on the Heads just to get it going sooner.

If you can swing a good set of heads it would be your ticket to power. These seem to make some good power. Nothing fancy but it gets it done on Pump Fuel. Pay no attention to the water pump not hooked up! Lol

[ame]http://youtu.be/OeX3LWkJKWg[/ame]
 
How fast do you want it to go or how much HP? Figure that out first then start accumulating parts.

A true 350hp will get most a-body cars in the 105mph range in the 1/4 which could run deep in the 12's with a good chassis/converter. 350hp is not hard to get out of a 360 with a mild hyd camshaft.

Simple piston is a KB107, no need for a forged crank in a 360.
 
If your dead set on that cam then don't run a forged bottom and and spend the money on eddie heads. Go with the flat tops and Eddie heads and your combo should get you in the 350 ball park. That cam seems pretty big for a street car though.
 
Heads are the best place to invest your money for power But saying that you said this is just a street engine and you already got ported J heads if there done right they should up there with most aftermarket heads and be able to support 450 + hp.

I agree with the others 360 has a pretty stout Bottom end, good pistons and rod bolts go along way.

I think your shooting for to much compression, on a street strip car especially if it see's a lot of strip time I can see pushing the CR but on 99% street car the extra 4-6% gain in hp ain't worth it. 9-9.5:1 will let you run most cams that you would want to use on the street anyways.

How much gear and stall are you willing to live with, will this car see a lot of miles, highway driving
?? Are things that need to be answered before picking the cam.

9.5:1 CR
Ported J heads
275 hydraulic roller
750
3.55
Would be my choices for a street driven 360
 
HOOCH said:
That's another part I'm torn about, I know solid roller is the way to go but hydro roller so much less maintenance

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad
Click to expand...

The mechanical roller isn't a high maintainace issue. Once you set it up, you'll tend to it yearly unde heavy driving conditions at worst. If taking the valve covers off and spending a short afternoon adjusting the rockers is to much , then the Hyd. roller is for you.

It takes me less than two hours while drinking beers with friends to adjust the rockers.
 
Def not gonna skimp on the heads, looking at a set of eddies that I'll have some nice port work done too. Just figure since I'll have it all at the machine shop might as well as knife the crank he won't charge me much to do so. I plan in doing it right and doing it once. Never been the type to half *** things, and I've got all winter to get this project done so I plan on taking my time. No rush here

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad
 
moper said:
Skip the knife edging and roller stuff IMO. Solid flat tappet, spend the coin on some head work instead.
Click to expand...

I thought I multi quoted this in the above reply. Anyway....

This is the best way to go IMO. Ethier way, adjusting the rockers is part of the scene. It's part of the big boy toy club.
 
273 said:
Heads are the best place to invest your money for power But saying that you said this is just a street engine and you already got ported J heads if there done right they should up there with most aftermarket heads and be able to support 450 + hp.

I agree with the others 360 has a pretty stout Bottom end, good pistons and rod bolts go along way.

I think your shooting for to much compression, on a street strip car especially if it see's a lot of strip time I can see pushing the CR but on 99% street car the extra 4-6% gain in hp ain't worth it. 9-9.5:1 will let you run most cams that you would want to use on the street anyways.

How much gear and stall are you willing to live with, will this car see a lot of miles, highway driving
?? Are things that need to be answered before picking the cam.

9.5:1 CR
Ported J heads
275 hydraulic roller
750
3.55
Would be my choices for a street driven 360
Click to expand...

3.55 are in it now
4spd
Minimal driving maybe 3000 miles a year, hwy and city mix
 
im gonna come out and tell ya that a nasty street car is fun for awhile. after i drive my car for an hour or so im ready to get outta the damn thing. its loud, vibrates like a **** and is actually exhausting to drive. is it a freaking blast to take out and beat on? hell ya. would i drive it cross country? no way in hell. if your not gonna take it to the track then why build a race engine? i say do a stock bottom end rebuild with a set of the kb107 pistons. throw in a MILD solid mech. lifter cam and your worked j-heads. that with a decent set of headers and say a performer rpm intake and 750 carb should get you well over 350 hp. that will get you a mid 12 sec car with a decent chassis. a real 12 sec. car is a fast car. most people have never been in a proper fast car. my boss has a 2012 vette. drives it every day. took him out in my dart making 400ish hp and the guy couldn't put a sentence together when he got out.
 
Words of wisdom,here^^^… A nice balance of aggressive, but not a back breaker. Stock rotating assembly+ good rod bolts& balanced. A near zero deck heighth ,KB pistons. Some good head work/Edelbrocks,your choice. A good small solid flat tappet. A simple budget build,that rocks.
 
I have built a low 11 sec 360 and my buddy has built several high 10 second 360 motors with KB hypereutectic pistons. My current ride is a street 410" SB that runs low 12's with a 2500 stall converter and 3.23's. Don't waste money on a roller unless you are planning on a late model 360.
Here is a guanteed low 12 second street combo.
360 bored .20 to .30 in an LA block, 9.0 to 9.5 compression KB pistons, .480 -.520 lift cam w 108 lSA, 225-235 duration @ .050 installed 4 degrees advanced, 3.55 gears with a clutch suregrip, SS springs or Cal Tracs, RPM or Air Gap intake with 750 Holley. Heads are a tossup. There are some very good iron heads out there. Don't buy factory heads and port them. A big cam will kill a good street engine. Headers are based on your pocketbook. All bets are off if you put the engine in a 4000 lb car
 
younggun2.0 said:
im gonna come out and tell ya that a nasty street car is fun for awhile. after i drive my car for an hour or so im ready to get outta the damn thing. its loud, vibrates like a **** and is actually exhausting to drive. is it a freaking blast to take out and beat on? hell ya. would i drive it cross country? no way in hell. if your not gonna take it to the track then why build a race engine? i say do a stock bottom end rebuild with a set of the kb107 pistons. throw in a MILD solid mech. lifter cam and your worked j-heads. that with a decent set of headers and say a performer rpm intake and 750 carb should get you well over 350 hp. that will get you a mid 12 sec car with a decent chassis. a real 12 sec. car is a fast car. most people have never been in a proper fast car. my boss has a 2012 vette. drives it every day. took him out in my dart making 400ish hp and the guy couldn't put a sentence together when he got out.
Click to expand...

Very well put:headbang:
My Cuda will dance anytime but an hour drive is about all I can take.
A low 12 second street car is fast and I have taken a few hell rides with guys that claimed they had 10 second cars and I will say when they got outta the Cuda they were a different skin tone:D
 
I agree with younggun2.0 and abodybomber
When you start going north of 400 hp you start throwing away under 3000 rpm hp and that's where a street car spends most of its time. I'm not a fan of 408 I'm a stickler for bore and rod ratios but a lot of people on here build and enjoy them, since you want to go forged crank anyways ever thought of going 408?? To build a streetable low speed hp engine
 
younggun2.0 said:
im gonna come out and tell ya that a nasty street car is fun for awhile. after i drive my car for an hour or so im ready to get outta the damn thing. its loud, vibrates like a **** and is actually exhausting to drive. is it a freaking blast to take out and beat on? hell ya. would i drive it cross country? no way in hell. if your not gonna take it to the track then why build a race engine? i say do a stock bottom end rebuild with a set of the kb107 pistons. throw in a MILD solid mech. lifter cam and your worked j-heads. that with a decent set of headers and say a performer rpm intake and 750 carb should get you well over 350 hp. that will get you a mid 12 sec car with a decent chassis. a real 12 sec. car is a fast car. most people have never been in a proper fast car. my boss has a 2012 vette. drives it every day. took him out in my dart making 400ish hp and the guy couldn't put a sentence together when he got out.
Click to expand...


I loved that last line!
 
Ya i def understand where you all are coming from, and by no means am i wanting to build a race car. I have a mid 10sec 74 AMC Hornet, a 10sec AWD eagle talon, and a 2000# 440ci 1932 dodge brothers rat rod. So when i have the need for speed i just hop in one of those.

I really appreciate all the advice and opinion from all you guys and pretty much have decided on my build....

Stock balanced bottom end
KB's .60 over if my block is still good? 9.5:1-10.5:1
Solid Roller Mech cam Int .523/Ext .521, 235 Dur (have this cam laying around)
Edelbrock RPM heads
Weiand Xcelator intake (also laying around)

So i think i should be able to be into this whole set up for less then 2500 including my machine work.
 
That should make for a nice driver with a bit of muscle to run around in. Gotta carb style & size for it?
 
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