What trans should I run?

What to do

  • Buy just the trans and pedals for 550 and buy performance clutch and bell

    Votes: 19 20.2%

  • Buy the works and sell what I don't use

    Votes: 34 36.2%

  • Keep what you got. Your name will never be Mr. 4 Speed

    Votes: 13 13.8%

  • Wait for Mopars In The Park swap meet and see what you can find

    Votes: 28 29.8%
  • Total voters
    94
-
skep419

skep419

No show, all go!
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
5,937
Reaction score
5,049
Location
Minesoooota
I have a 400+ hp 360 with a 727, 2800 converter, turbo action full manual valve body, B&M ratchet shifter, 8 3/4 3.91 suregrip.

A buddy of mine located a a833 4 speed from a 68 dart 318 car. The guy wanted $400 for what I thought was everything. Turns out 400 bought the just the trans. With the bell housing, flywheel, linkage, z bar, pedals looking closer to 700. The trans worked when it was parked. What would have to be done to make it hold up?
 
You won't have to do much to an 833 to get it to hold up to 400 hp. That's a pretty tough transmission to break, especially on a street car. $700 sounds pretty high for the setup though. $500-$550 would be a little more reasonable.
 
i voted to buy the works as mopar shows usually seem high priced, so you might not get any better deal and will regret it.however, if you are doing alot of drag racing then you should stick with the auto. 4 speeds are so much fun though.
 
I havent voted yet, but maybe try to ask him if he will take any less? 4 spds are fun for the street. i dont have mine in my car yet, but i just love to drive manual tranny cars. its just so much fun!
 
Imo a 4 speed car going through the gears just sounds cool not to mention a whole lot of fun. I don't think you would regret it.
 
I haven't voted, but since I'm working on getting my own stuff together for a four speed swap I figured I'd give you my two cents. I'm about 1100 dollars into my own parts accumulation, and I'm looking at about 100-200 dollars more to be COMPLETELY done. I'm going from an auto on the column to the four on the floor, and I can tell you that there are a ton of pieces involved [obviously] when you get down to the nitty gritty of it. I have a spreadsheet I could send you detailing every last piece I've bought and cent I've spent getting stuff together to prove that this whole swap isn't cheap!
But to my ultimate point, I would say wait patiently for Mopars in the Park and see what kinds of treasures you can find at a swap. I personally think that at a swap people are looking to really move parts, so prices should be pretty fair [not to mention free of shipping!]. I'm down to the last few parts that I wouldn't consider buying new online, so I'll see you at Dakota County Fairgrounds when I'm looking through the swap for my own four speed bits. Don't be snatching up everything, now!
:-D
 
id say run the 4 speed set up as it is....there pretty tough as has been mentioned.

But hey....if you end up doing the switch ...let me know...I have first dibs on the ratchet shifter if its for sale!
 
Make the switch! I LOVE the four-speed in my Dart. I think the price is high for the transmission. I know I'm gonna get blasted for this but I only paid $100 for an A833 last year at a swap, and it came with a bellhousing, shifter, & rods. YES I KNOW IT'S NOT THE NORM (before the forum police show up again:roll:).

$200 to Brewers for a rebuild kit for the transmission, which my husband did himself, a good quality clutch and pressure plate for around $450, misc. parts found at swap meets (Z-bar, reverse rod $25), transmission hump and shifter pedals found online ($100 total) and around $200 for a 360 flywheel, rebuild kit for the Z-bar, shifter boot for $65 etc etc it quickly adds up. It took me months to accumulate all the parts though. I wouldn't buy a part unless it was a good or decent deal, so it took a while.

I estimate around $1300 - $1,500 for the switch (haven't added it up yet), and I think we got off pretty cheap. Man, was it worth it though.
 
dustergal said:
Make the switch! I LOVE the four-speed in my Dart. I think the price is high for the transmission. I know I'm gonna get blasted for this but I only paid $100 for an A833 last year at a swap, and it came with a bellhousing, shifter, & rods. YES I KNOW IT'S NOT THE NORM (before the forum police show up again:roll:).

$200 to Brewers for a rebuild kit for the transmission, which my husband did himself, a good quality clutch and pressure plate for around $450, misc. parts found at swap meets (Z-bar, reverse rod $25), transmission hump and shifter pedals found online ($100 total) and around $200 for a 360 flywheel, rebuild kit for the Z-bar, shifter boot for $65 etc etc it quickly adds up. It took me months to accumulate all the parts though. I wouldn't buy a part unless it was a good or decent deal, so it took a while.

I estimate around $1300 - $1,500 for the switch (haven't added it up yet), and I think we got off pretty cheap. Man, was it worth it though.
Click to expand...

IMHO you got a good price. Most guys overpay for thier stuff because they want it right now and dont want to put in foot work etc to find the better deal.

Good price! Congrats on being a smart shopper.
 
MN1968Valiant said:
I haven't voted, but since I'm working on getting my own stuff together for a four speed swap I figured I'd give you my two cents. I'm about 1100 dollars into my own parts accumulation, and I'm looking at about 100-200 dollars more to be COMPLETELY done. I'm going from an auto on the column to the four on the floor, and I can tell you that there are a ton of pieces involved [obviously] when you get down to the nitty gritty of it. I have a spreadsheet I could send you detailing every last piece I've bought and cent I've spent getting stuff together to prove that this whole swap isn't cheap!
But to my ultimate point, I would say wait patiently for Mopars in the Park and see what kinds of treasures you can find at a swap. I personally think that at a swap people are looking to really move parts, so prices should be pretty fair [not to mention free of shipping!]. I'm down to the last few parts that I wouldn't consider buying new online, so I'll see you at Dakota County Fairgrounds when I'm looking through the swap for my own four speed bits. Don't be snatching up everything, now!
:-D
Click to expand...
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...orqueflite_transmission_conversion/index.html

This is the link I have been looking at. I am not in any hurry to get the 4 speed. Although in the past at swap meets I buy stuff like its going out of style. Oh how I love swap meets...........:love7:
 
I'm going to be the loner who says you should keep the auto.
I would much rather have the reverse manual 727 hands down.
MUCH stronger than the manual...not like it matters so much in a lighter car, but maybe!
 
i don't think thats a bad price for everything. one call to Brewers for a Z-bar and misc stuff will really dent the pocket book. i know first hand. 400 hp with a small block shouldn't be an issue for parts breakage. the key is to drive it as fast as a good auto/converter at the track. offer him $600 cash :glasses2:
 
I agree with alot of people here, on the cost to convert. i was in the $1200.- $1500. and then a year later I put more $ into it for a rebuild on the Tranny. If I had to do over I would of just went to a Keisler 5 spd. or something similar.
 
I,m lucky enough to have one of each(4 speed and auto)It,s nice to row the gears in the 4 speed on nice cruise days,but gets tiring after alot of stop and goes.It,s nice to just put in gear and go.8)
 
get the stick! i think 700 bucks is a little steep, maybe try 600 or 650? either way, you will need to factor in all the little things like bushings, clips, seals, etc....its the little stuff that adds up quick. and if i was you, if this guy is really confident in what he has, ask him to pop off the cover for you. It doesnt take long to do on an 833 and hell then you'll really know what kinda condition its in internally and if it will need any other parts

oh, and from what i have heard many others say, that 833 will be fine...your not even testing it with that kinda power

good luck!
 
Leaning towards just keeping the auto. Plan on bringing it to the strip alot this year
 
If you are gonna race it a lot the auto is the way to go. You can always collect parts for a 4-speed conversion as you find them, that's what we did. :)
 
You're better off piecing it together, a 68 318 Dart 833 has a small 904 sized output shaft and a 9.5" clutch, the bell/flywheel is specific to a 67-68 273/318 A body, the pedals also have plastic bushings instead of metal bearings like a 340/383 car.

The Z bar and clutch linkage pieces would be worth grabbing but everything else isn't anything special.
 
I voted buy it all.
The price isn't all that bad and you will have a complete set up to install in the future if you wish.
I would go through the trans and at least reseal it before using it and buy a new clutch and rebuild kit for the linkage unless you luck out and everything is really good.
You will never go wrong getting a complete set up from a car all at once.
Just my 2 cents.
 
MoparJoe20 said:
You're better off piecing it together, a 68 318 Dart 833 has a small 904 sized output shaft and a 9.5" clutch, the bell/flywheel is specific to a 67-68 273/318 A body, the pedals also have plastic bushings instead of metal bearings like a 340/383 car.

The Z bar and clutch linkage pieces would be worth grabbing but everything else isn't anything special.
Click to expand...

'68 A833 does NOT use the small 904 yoke. It uses the small 904 yoke U-joint. ALL A-833 4-SPEEDS USE THE SAME YOKE DIAMETER/SPLINE AS THE 727.
 
Stop and think ahead. I'm 59 years old, and the manual got real old to me, a long time ago. Just swapped to a 727, reverse man, with 3400 converter.
13 runs on it. Got a almost new hurst 1/4 in here, then just a custom driveshaft. (had the auto rad left from the Swinger).

Best $1100 I every spent. Car so much easier to drive, and faster.
 
Outsider said:
'68 A833 does NOT use the small 904 yoke. It uses the small 904 yoke U-joint. ALL A-833 4-SPEEDS USE THE SAME YOKE DIAMETER/SPLINE AS THE 727.
Click to expand...

67-68 383 ,68 340 and all 69+ Use the 727 yoke, 66-68 /6, 273 and 318 833's use the 904 sized slip yoke and a different tailshaft housing, I'm talking about A body 833's so that may be part of the confusion, all B&E 833's use the 727 sized yoke.

I didn't know there was a difference either until I got my Dart which was a '68 273/833 car, it was real fun finding a tailshaft seal for it because the O.D. of a 904 seal is about .200" larger and will not fit.
 
MoparJoe20 said:
67-68 383 ,68 340 and all 69+ Use the 727 yoke, 66-68 /6, 273 and 318 833's use the 904 sized slip yoke and a different tailshaft housing, I'm talking about A body 833's so that may be part of the confusion, all B&E 833's use the 727 sized yoke.

I didn't know there was a difference either until I got my Dart which was a '68 273/833 car, it was real fun finding a tailshaft seal for it because the O.D. of a 904 seal is about .200" larger and will not fit.
Click to expand...

All 833 4-speeds have the same yoke diameter/spline as 727. The yokes have the small U-joint...that is all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top