What's wrong with just a hone and new bearings?

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Vamisk said:
I get what you're saying. I don't think it's worth sleeving a wasted 383 either so i may just have to find another engine. If that's the case i'll probably just get a 400 and be done with it.
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So then, you're going to let a 150 buck sleeve make the decision to scrap your engine? Seems counter intuitive. At least once the block is back in good condition, you KNOW what you have. Getting a completely different engine, you are starting all over from the unknown. Might end up with something worse.
 
That's a sleeve for one cylinder, at least one other piston overheated and there's another 6 cylinders that may potentially be damaged. If the block is fine then obviously i'm going to use it. How permanent is a sleeve anyway? If it's going to be there forever and has no chance of failure that might wake me up from my nightmare.
 
Vamisk said:
That's a sleeve for one cylinder, at least one other piston overheated and there's another 6 cylinders that may potentially be damaged. If the block is fine then obviously i'm going to use it. How permanent is a sleeve anyway? If it's going to be there forever and has no chance of failure that might wake me up from my nightmare.
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A properly installed sleeve is 100% permanent. In fact, it adds strength to the block, since you are adding additional metal.
 
Honing and bearings will work if the bore taper is in spec. If the bore is excessively tapered, the re ringer engine will burn oil. I suggest measuring everything, see if it is in spec, then decide if you need a machine shop.
 
there is a member on fortrucksonly thats selling a 74 440 long block with a intake n carb for 400 bucks pick up opnly in vermont ''ghostrider 67''.
 
rings bearings oil pump , hone n polish . lap the valves . thats a used car rebuild , or a claimer motor . it works for awhile but get it bored n squared up , is just a bit more , for a whole lot more fun times .
 
pomonamissel said:
there is a member on fortrucksonly thats selling a 74 440 long block with a intake n carb for 400 bucks pick up opnly in vermont ''ghostrider 67''.
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If only i didn't have $21 to my name right now. I start a new job on Monday though so i can finally make some progress.
 
I bet if you look at the valves for the cylinders that those bent pushrods came out of, you may find some bent ones. And you should check your freeze-plugs.And the areas just below the decks. That looks like it started with hydraulic lock-up, possible frozen but more likely the former.
With all the information you keep adding
I think I'm with sireland, that looks like a parts motor, and likely not a good one either
 
My high school auto shop would put the rods in a vise and straighten them with a crowbar and pipe wrench, roll the pushrods on the floor until they were trued up again and dingle ball hone the cylinders. Then they would reuse the rings AND head gaskets and fire it up. Just to prove it will run and not all engine rebuilds are the same. Ask me how I know cause I did a similar "stranded in hell" 350 rebuild in HBHS auto shop back in 85. Damn thing ran and didnt even smoke.
 
Most anything will run. For how long, and how well, only the guy tossing it back together could guess, and it will be a guess. My advice - if you don't have $21 to your name, you need to put down the wrenches and earn some cash first. Because one way or another you'll need at least $25 :)
 
RustyRatRod said:
A properly installed sleeve is 100% permanent. In fact, it adds strength to the block, since you are adding additional metal.
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Agreed. Think about it like this: Most aluminum automotive blocks are sleeved. Even if the sleeves are removable (HD VRod comes to mind), the block is fine, the sleeves are retained by the head. I'd sleeve every cylinder if I could.

That being said, only your dial bore gauge knows for sure. If you have a lot of taper or out of round, it'll wear out rapidly and burn more oil than you'd save $ by boring it.

If a rod's bent, it probably hydrolocked at some point. If a piston is cocked in the bore, that's certainly enough to seize it.
 
Vamisk said:
So as some of you may know i once bought a 383 that had seized. Today i went back and looked at the oil pickup which was covered in assembly lube. Maybe that was the root cause?

Anyway i'm not keen on boring this thing out a million over, what's the worst that will happen if i just hone it and throw some stocker pistons in there with fresh bearings and call it a day?
The rings on the seized piston are still springy so i doubt much damage was caused to the cylinder walls.
Honestly i just want an engine for driving on the road, not trying to build some race gas-sucking monster with more chrome then iron.
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Wait until someone responds with the answer you want......then do that.
 
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