Where are all the running hot posts?

-
Stop leak sucks especially Barr's except- I use pepper or aluma-seal. if absolutely necessary.

MUCH less clogging potential.
 
Book idle spec is different for AC cars.

They take into consideration the drop.

Split the difference between too much drop and too high without AC on.
 
YY1 said:
Stop leak sucks especially Barr's except- I use pepper or aluma-seal. if absolutely necessary.

MUCH less clogging potential.
Click to expand...
I absolutely detest any kind of potion in the cooling system... It's a temporary Band-Aid at best and always has potential for worst things to come and having to replace everything and clean the block out...
 
...and factory bend hoses with silicone bypass hose.
 
YY1 said:
...and factory bend hoses with silicone bypass hose.
Click to expand...
Well this suggestion is a bandaid at best but a little 12-inch Pusher fan like I'm about to install that comes with my aftermarket radiator kit activated when the AC comes on...
I understand that it should work correctly but in order to do that everything needs to be rechecked.. radiator needs to flow correctly, the thermostat needs to be completely opened and checked, and a high-volume water pump needs to be double check. Possibly overdrive pulleys..
Fan shroud?..
 
I find some things interesting about this car as it came from the factory.

AC car with no clutch fan, and no shroud.

I'm pretty sure both of those things were in vogue at the time.

I'm also currently looking for a suitable shroud to try ans well as contemplating a late model donor clutch fan, like from a Dakota.
 
YY1 said:
I find some things interesting about this car as it came from the factory.

AC car with no clutch fan, and no shroud.

I'm pretty sure both of those things were in vogue at the time.

I'm also currently looking for a suitable shroud to try ans well as contemplating a late model donor clutch fan, like from a Dakota.
Click to expand...
The sounds like a good direction...
 
YY1 said:
I find some things interesting about this car as it came from the factory.

AC car with no clutch fan, and no shroud.

I'm pretty sure both of those things were in vogue at the time.

I'm also currently looking for a suitable shroud to try ans well as contemplating a late model donor clutch fan, like from a Dakota.
Click to expand...
Also was there ever a time when you didn't have this problem?....
 
Good question.

I think right after I got it charged up is when I had my freeze plug issue that rapidly worsened.

So I think that's inconclusive.

I do remember driving it enough times to be happy the AC worked.

...and now I remember I didn't have the aftermarket temp gauge installed then either.

Another thing I'm recalling is that the radiator has been replaced.
It looks like a factory Mopar but doesn't have a part number on the tank.
I need to check to see how many rows a 73 318 AC car is supposed to have.
 
1969383S said:
Has everyone resolved their issues or is Covid-19 dampening things?

Went out last weekend in 90+ and all good for me.
Click to expand...

Maybe some stupid's wearing off? No.......that caint be it.
 
YY1 said:
Mine normally runs about 170.
...unless the AC is on. Then it can go to 210 or more.
Still trying to figure that out.
Click to expand...
Very same condition in nephews 2002 4.3 ltr Blazer. Bad fan clutch was the main issue. My advise was, While at rockauto for the clutch, get a thermostat, upper rad' hose (looked to be OEM), and a serpentine belt (it was cracked up badly and going to come off to get at this thermostat anyway). Found rubber gasket around thermostat broken up so it was likely OEM too. The problem is cured and some maintenance done.
I didn't overheat while sitting in the shade coaching his labor. I can pretty much predict his radiator to be the next failure (OEM, put together with rubber gaskets also).
for what its worth, our 73 318 Valiant factory a/c had 26 inch radiator with fan clutch and shroud.
 
So.....

It's a 3 row 26", and there is a shroud.

Drove it almost all day without AC, and never got above 170.
In fact, it never moved unless I was in someplace long enough for it to cool down.

Next day I tried the AC and within the time it took to cool down, it was 185-190.

I'm researching fast idle solenoids and the info is kinda scarce.
WAY more info on idle stop.
Interestingly it looks like there's an older design unit that can be used for both.
Edelbrock sells it for...wait for it...$200!
If you shop, you can find it new for as low as $35!

I've got a factory one and BBx carb mount from a 5th Ave, but it's shot.
At least I have a mount. Looks like there's an added lever on the throttle to accommodate it.
Might need to be fabbed.
Getting the old solenoid out of the mount looks "interesting".

Maybe I'll cough up the $35 and experiment.

I also noticed a 5th Ave at my local U-pull.
Maybe I'll go have a look at that.
 
Last edited:
Here's my running hot post/thread. I put it in the wrong category on the forum because I'm new here and didn't scroll down far enough. :(

Got a couple of days off, will try to get a new thermostat from my local AutoZone and get it in there. Looks like it will be fun with the A/C compressor right there. :D

I'm just trying to decide between the Duralast, the Failsafe, and the "race only" Mr. Gasket.
 
Chris Nicholson said:
Here's my running hot post/thread. I put it in the wrong category on the forum because I'm new here and didn't scroll down far enough. :(

Got a couple of days off, will try to get a new thermostat from my local AutoZone and get it in there. Looks like it will be fun with the A/C compressor right there. :D

I'm just trying to decide between the Duralast, the Failsafe, and the "race only" Mr. Gasket.
Click to expand...

A little off topic , but I finally got my recovery system to work , hasnt for about 9ish yrs. finally got around to making a couple of shims , cutting them at a severe angle an screwing them under the rad., caps rubber seal , creating more pressure on the seal. Worked great , recovery system works , engine running a little cooler , was either that or start buying rad. caps . Didnt cost a thing !
 
@YY1
YY1 said:
Idle is set at book spec (IIRC 750 and drops to 600 with AC on).
Click to expand...
That's a lot of rpm drop, on A/C engagement;
what idle-timing are you running?
your refrigerant pressure may be too high.

Rather than the Idle-speed booster solenoid, you can achieve similar results by hooking your vacuum advance can to full-time manifold vacuum.
 
Last edited:
My idle is set book spec for an AC car and behaves like I'd expect- 50-ish high without AC and 75-ish low with it on.

My timing is also book spec at 0*.

If I set it any further advanced to pings.

I will investigate your suggestion.
 
MVIMG_20200729_193308.jpg

I think I found a clue.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Is your engine as delivered from the factory?
Click to expand...

Pretty much.

Just 2" dual exhaust added and a more open air cleaner without the manifold heat tube.

Drove it to work this morning and it stayed about 158, even with the AC on for about 15 miles.

Got real lucky and only had to stop for 1 of the 8 traffic lights on the trip.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top