where to buy rear shackle u -bolts? anyone got a used set?

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I would not use used ones after seeing what happened to the ones that were used for mock up purposes in my car. The threads are sort of rounded off. As to it being a sales pitch, well, I guess you can believe what you want.....
 
If you look closely at the nuts the factory used on those U bolts you should see 2 small square indentions on opposing sides. The nuts are scored so the scar on the outside is reflected on the inside. Basicly it's a primative but most effective locktite. No lock washer required. To back those nuts off again will damage the threads on the bolts and often twist the steel too. All of this degrades the U bolt to the point it cant be trusted.
 
I've always bought new ones at Orielly's and just had em get a set built for me for my 2 ton dump truck. It was obvious that i wasn't going to re use the old ones. They were 39 yrs old. Please by all means, error on the side of caution.
Small Block
 
If you look closely at the nuts the factory used on those U bolts you should see 2 small square indentions on opposing sides. The nuts are scored so the scar on the outside is reflected on the inside. Basicly it's a primative but most effective locktite. No lock washer required. To back those nuts off again will damage the threads on the bolts and often twist the steel too. All of this degrades the U bolt to the point it cant be trusted.
Exactly- If indeed your bolts has these nuts they`re a 1 time shot. Spring shop replacements may not be the lock type.
I learned the hard way if your mocking up, use regular nuts, then use the lock style or loctight.
 
Ok guys, here's the deal. You may be able to get away with reusing u-bolts, but it is not recommended if you want to do a quality job.

I worked in an engine factory for one of the big three. We had some bolts that we torqued to yeild (stretched) each time that they were tightened. We tracked these bolts so as not to use them more than three times. After that, we threw them away, even though they had good pistons and rods attached.

Fastener Engineering only allowed us 5 cycles for torquing the bolts period. We were able to use three and save two for service. This was no sales pitch, it was mandated by OUR OWN FASTENER ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT who was responsible for determining the torque for each fastener/joint on the whole vehicle.

When the bolts are torqued to yield, they have a permanent stretch for each cycle that they are torqued. I have measured this on the bolts when I set up the machines to torque them. After so many cycles, they will "neck down" where they were yielded and that will become the stress point where they will eventually fatigue and break.

So if you want to reuse bolts in a high stress application, it is your call. In some cases you can get away with it if they were only torqued once before. But if it was MY car and I was putting it together, I would replace the bolts with new ones. It is not worth a measly $30 for new u-bolts for me not to replace them and potentially have my axle fall off when my car is going down the street. Then you have to gather up your parts and call a tow truck and wait to get a ride home and then fix all the colateral damage from the axle falling off. Your call... Do you want to do it CHEAP or RIGHT???

Also, adding any other lubricants to the nuts and bolts can throw off the torque to clamp load that was used to put the parts together. Fastener Engineering test the nuts and bolts to be used as they are shipped in from the supplier with the coatings that were specified on the bolt/nut blueprint. Adding extra lubricant will affect the torque needed to reach the proper clamp load that was determined by Fastener Engineering. The excess lube will cause you to overtorque the bolts and put excess load on the fastener (bolt) where it will fatigue and break faster.

Mancini carries two types of u-bolts. One with knurling on the inner radius (to help clamp them and keep them from "creeping") and ones without the knurling.
 
**How much axle wrap did that trailer have on accelleration

***First you want us to follow the instuctions of the Pros. and replace the u-bolts and nuts to their spec. Then you contradict yourself and say we should use Home depot grade 8 nuts.

****I haul my case alot. My axle sits under my springs on one trailer and there is no stress on the u-bolts at all. My other trailers have torsion axkes. no u-bolts.

**None on accelleration but one hell of a lot in twisting when backing in to some locations. It also had a major drag when using the trailer brakes which I am quite sure would more than equal your launch at times. Idiots tend to jump in front of you and cause you to have to do a quick brake shut down. It also traveled over some real rough terrain getting in and out of job sites. We originally had a triple axle singe wheel trailer and it kept tearing out the side walls on the rear tires so how much stress was put on those U bolts? Our trailers were DOT inspected and believe me they will ticket you for substandard equipment.

I think we have someone here named krazykuda that is in the field and gave you very good details in the post above.

***On your second comment maybe you need to reread the entire thread and quote where I said that statement.

**** If you are using over slung axles to haul a Case extend-a-hoe then you aren't real smart unless you are using a semi and a semi trailer. If you are using a semi set up then you aren't even talking about the same thing. DOT would love you in Oklahoma.

This is a set up like we had on the axles. Our trailer was solid steel with an open channel in the center because it was a true backhoe trailer with the built in spot for the bucket to rest and be tied down. Now can you see how much taller a trailer would be with over slung axles?

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