Where to get a front pump for a 42RH (A500)

-
I have also seen cracked converter lock up apply piston causing the lock up to come on.To be sure i would replace the solenoids and the converter.
Cleaning the vb and checking for stuck valves is a very good idea.


BTW;Thanks for the feedback on the non lock up 42rh,rebuild alot of o/d units back when the first came out.Never did remember a non lock up unit.
 
It's got two solenoids on it. And the spring that broke was the 3-4 accumulator spring that's in the valve body. Got one in town for a few bucks. Shouldn't make a huge difference, but maybe I'll get lucky. I figured I should probably blow apart the valve body, but haven't convinced myself yet since this rebuild is turning into a second full time job when I get home. 8 hours to pull the damn trans out, 5 hours to blow it apart and get the clutches swapped, and another 5 hours yesterday fighting trying to get it back together. Not looking foward to trying to get it back in the truck...

Where is the lock up apply piston? Is it just in the valve body somewhere? I did some reading up yesterday on similar issues and read about some possible electronic things to look at. Sounds like the TPS and speed sensor are about all the computer uses to determine lock up. Seems kind of weird though, the speedo works fine, so I assume the speed sensor would be okay and even if the TPS is flakey, it shouldn't be locking up at under 5 mph pulling into a garage. I guess worst case I may just pull the pin out of the connector for lockup if the rebuild doesn't fix things while I sort out the electronics. At least I won't have to drop the trans again to replace solenoids if it comes down to that.
 
The lock up piston is in the converter,i would HIGHLY recommened replacing the converter.
With the transmission out it is hard to diagnois the engine kill problem,that is why i recommened replacing the converter,every thing else can be replaced with out pulling the transmission out.
You can have a electrical problem or a mechanical problem,checking it would be test driving it until the engine kill happens the remove the 3 wire connector for the lock up and overdrive.
If the problem is still there you have a internal transmission problem,if it goes away i would get a scanner to watch the lock up command from the computer,but most people can't monitor live data with the cheap hand held scanners.
Besides the broken springs what have you found in the transmission wrong?
Be very care full in the overdrive section,there is a very large coil spring in there that has to be removed with a large press.
 
Overall the trans looked okay. The pan had a little metal in it and one clutch pack looked like it might have gotten a little toasty, but no friction material was flaking off or anything. Overall it seemed like it was in pretty good shape, fluid was still somewhat red, though maybe just a touch thick.

This may sound like a silly question, but do you know offhand what color the stock torque converter is? The one in there now is a light blue that looks an awful lot like the reman unit that I would be buying. And I learned all about that spring last night. Fortunately my fingers weren't in the way (like they have to be to pull out the snap rings, good job Dodge...). Put the whole thing together two nights ago, but when I went to drop the overdrive section onto the intermediate shaft I found out that the splines in the section that the intermediate shaft fits on weren't aligned. Got to take the whole gearset out again and try over. In the process of trying to press it back together the second time the block I was using to press with broke in half and made for quite an exciting event. Needless to say I think I'm missing a few heartbeats off of my lifetime.
 
Normaly the stock converters are natural steel color,light blue is rebuilt.I would still change the converter.
When you press the spring u need to line the splines while you press in.You can use the shaft to line it up while pressing it down.
 
I agree with Bee about replacing the converter. They are a known problem and as you know by experience their not easy to change. Don't know if you've found a deal on one yet but www.bulkpart.com has some pretty good prices on parts. I've ordered from them several times and had good luck with getting good parts and service.
 
I would also check the transmission cooler,it can also cause problems if it doesn't flow or is restricted.
When the converter comes on it releases fluid from the back side of the converter to apply the clutch,so if the cooler is restricted or plugged it can hydro lock causing the the converter to apply with out any electronic input.

The coolers in radiator are very problematic, if there was any debris in the transmission now or before it usually collects in the radiator where it is not see until the fluid is to operating temp and starts to break loose causing all kinds of issues,and with a mechanical governor it starts in the wrong gear won't down shift ect..
When in doubt, bypass the cooler in the radiator with an after market cooler.If the cooler is plugged or restricted you will see it in the overdrive housing (bolts on to case)or planets where the intermediate shaft goes through the case.
 
Hmm, would it be a bad idea to try to blow some compressed air through the cooler lines to see if they have any junk in them or would I be asking for trouble? Got the trans all back together tonight, hoping it will go in a little easier now that I know what to expect. Planning on just cutting the exhaust to get it back in. Disconnected it from the manifolds when I dropped the trans in the hopes that it would fall down some, but it really didn't make much difference. It's not necessarily hard to put the parts in, it's just that you can barely turn a wrench on any of the bolts, you have to go one flat at a time on a bolt that is snug the whole time it tightens.
 
They make a cooler flush that comes in a pressurized can with a 1/4 clear tube and a screw on plastic fitting on the end.Some auto parts stores sell them i think it's made by Lube Guard.
I would use that if you can find it,brake clean is another option but cooler flush is better.If you have any paint strainers blow the lines threw the strainer and look for contamination.
If you see any evidence of metal or friction material,bypass the cooler!!

Hope this is helpful,and your transmission works out well for you.:blob:
 
map63 when I did my buddies I had to drop the exhaust too. I used a 1/2 impact turned down to low/medium with a long wobble extension and socket on the bottom and a buddy holding the top with a socket and extension. Went right back together. Do you have any wobble extensions? Real handy for light duty stuff like that. Sears sells them pretty cheap.
 
Yeah, I've got some universal/wobble joints. The exhaust bolts actually weren't too hard to get out aside from one rounding the head. It was mainly the stupid gussets they put on the front end of the trans that were the major pain. It's a 4WD, so I have a full size front axle in the way and Dodge apparently thought this little V6 was so powerful they had to the brace the front bottom of the trans bellhousing to the front axle AND the MOTOR MOUNTS in one bracket per side that makes it a little hard to reach any of the bolts on. Got the trans all reassembled yesterday though, hoping to at least get it under the truck and mounted after work today. Probably won't get all the other pieces back on so it's driveable till tomorrow or this weekend pending how long it takes to get the trans lined up and bolted in.
 
I hate to say it,but dropping the front diff out is the easist way out.It takes longer but you will hve more hair when finished:violent1:
 
Yeah, that was certainly going through my head when I was trying to pull the thing out. Luckily I still have pretty flexible hands and could get wrenches on bolts just enough to get them to go, not sure how easy it's going to be to try to fish them back in though. Gravity is helpful when removing stuff, not so nice when you're trying to put it back in...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top