Where to start on repairing this Demon???

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demon34071

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So here is my 3rd Demon I picked up this summer on a package deal that I couldn't live with out, LOL… its a 72 Dodge Demon real 340 Car bucket seat seats, console, locally sold in Pittsburgh, and at the same dealership (that no longer exists) as another on of my demons. Factory black with factory black stripes….

issue… previous owners got over zealous on the project and removed more sheet metal than they should have without welding in new… So here is how I got it… and I have plenty of AMD sheet metal in stock to repair, but I really do not know the best way to approach it… or should I cut my loss and find a new shell and use this one to patch up a new shell?

The upside… from the rest seat forward the shell is amazingly clean and straight… from the seats back its missing, LOL… but there is a new trunk floor and trunk extensions already welded into the car….

Any thoughts on the best way to do the following:
*Repair the rusted out and cut 1/4 window channel areas
*Hang the rest of the sheet metal both 1/4's and tail end with keeping it sq and aligned
*Or find a new clean shell rebuild from there

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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Oh it will never get cut up for parts… Saving it is the only option… my question is how is it best to do so. with the whole *** end of the car missing for reference…. or do you do a "re-shell"
 
You really need a jig to get it square and lined up before you start hanging sheet metal. You should be able to find help here with measurement points on uni body. If not right you never will get straight. I would stick with this body and not re body as that just hurts the hobby.
 
67cudafb said:
You really need a jig to get it square and lined up before you start hanging sheet metal. You should be able to find help here with measurement points on uni body. If not right you never will get straight. I would stick with this body and not re body as that just hurts the hobby.
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I kinda agree with you the same approach… Luckily I have (2) demons sitting right here for reference… I think what I really need is some approach to the pcs to square up first, 2nd, 3rd, etc…

Ie do you put in the new AMD side trunk gutters first and tie them to the tail panel…and then move to the 1/4's etc… there should be a method to which pcs to start with…can you square up the trunk hole opening and then hang everything from there…

There's gotta me a body guy out there who knows the best sequence to feather this all back together…
 
First off another car can only be used for idea's, anything under 1/2" clearance (compared) is worthless as these cars are so different...

If i were going to do that i think i would remove the deck lid, and install the rear panel (just tack) and then see where the 1/4's lay.

Also before you do anything you need to fit the hood to the body, then the front panel and fenders, rebuild the door hinges and gap the doors to the fender and rockers. With this you can not hang the 1/4 and adjust IT to the rest of the body and tail section.

Something to think about is that is about what the factory started with, a body in white...
 
also dont gap for 1/8"! these cars were usually closer to 1/4" so keep that in mind.
 
Email or call AMD they have a repair center I'm sure they can help you out
 
yep what these guys said.. looks like there is a decent amount to work with.
you could always take measurements from one of your other demons to verify its going together ok.
 
vitamindart said:
yep what these guys said.. looks like there is a decent amount to work with.
you could always take measurements from one of your other demons to verify its going together ok.
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nope... his gaps will tell him everything... no two cars are close enough to trust...
 
that looks like a daymare....worth a try tho,it'll be a cool car once finished.
 
Lots of clamps, sheet metal screws, and patience. I'd leave the deck lid attached to help line everything up before you start welding. Once you have everything lined up and held in place with a clamps and screws, then take your time and start welding. I'd recommend welding in a rotating sequence (like you torque head bolts etc). Stop frequently to take measurements to be sure you stay square.
 
It's not as bad as it looks. Buy a crap load of sheet metal screws and screw the whole back end together before doing any welding. Make sure the car is sitting on its suspension . Hopefully the guy lined up the doors and trunk before he removed the quarters .
 
805moparkid is right you start with the front and work back.ive done a boat load of these old mopars and still doing them. amd is the metal to work with but there full quarter's on a,b,e body at time's have to be tweaked.The worst thing they did was welded in the trunk floor extensions before quarter's were fit in place you can drop those in after everything is screwed in place and leave the deck lid on.
 
In my humble opinion you couldn't have started with a better project! You have the luxury of coating all those inner panels! Yumm!
 
Don't know if this would help? [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Dodge-Dart-Demon-Swinger-GTS-NOS-Frame-Dimensions-Wheel-Alignment-Specs-/221195841956?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33804cb1a4"]1971 Dodge Dart Demon Swinger GTS Frame Dimensions Wheel Alignment Specs | eBay[/ame]
 
thats the easiest one to work on yet, take out a few sockets unbolt the doors and trunk lid and call the junkyard!

I wouldn't fix that heap; and I'm from canada, where cars will rust right in front of you
 
It's not as bad as it look's fix the car.I've done one's 10 time's worse than that..
 
66plyValiant said:
thats the easiest one to work on yet, take out a few sockets unbolt the doors and trunk lid and call the junkyard!

I wouldn't fix that heap; and I'm from canada, where cars will rust right in front of you
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A Heap??? Then your idea of a heap and mine are totally different… Especially since the Orginal scoop hood is mint, the original fenders are mint, I have a mint replacement drivers door for the car, and the original passenger door is really straight and rust free…
 
tdart said:
805moparkid is right you start with the front and work back.ive done a boat load of these old mopars and still doing them. amd is the metal to work with but there full quarter's on a,b,e body at time's have to be tweaked.The worst thing they did was welded in the trunk floor extensions before quarter's were fit in place you can drop those in after everything is screwed in place and leave the deck lid on.
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I actually like that plan of attack with starting from the front…. I know the doors are original and at least were not off the car from the last owner (who knows prior to that.) But I can easily hang the hood, fenders, valance, etc on the nose, rebuild the door hinges on the car and re-adjust the doors if needed, and that will get me lined up to the back edge of the door.

What are you thoughts on the following for the rear:
I have new AMD left and right trunk gutters that came with the car. They utilize the same factory panel alignment holes. I could line these and clamp them in at the rear window and align them and clamp them to the tail panel. Using the deck lid as a guide since the previous owner said he left it on to use as a guide…This should line up the trunk box and give me a frame work to start the 1/4's?
 
challengergary said:
Lots of clamps, sheet metal screws, and patience. I'd leave the deck lid attached to help line everything up before you start welding. Once you have everything lined up and held in place with a clamps and screws, then take your time and start welding. I'd recommend welding in a rotating sequence (like you torque head bolts etc). Stop frequently to take measurements to be sure you stay square.
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do this.
 
I would hang,adjust and alighn all the front sheetmetalto where it fit perfectly then see what can be done to make the rear sheet metal come out as nice as you did on the front sheetmetal...nobody says you cant do it better than the factory yo might check fit the 1/4's during this process using lumber to support the rear panels. you have the makings of what could be an exceptional car
 
good call 805. I was just thinking that would get him close.
I definitely like the idea of using screws to get it all lined up before welding.
 
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