Which Intake

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spark plug

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I'm new on here. I have just aquired a 68 Dart. Motor is a 360 with a mopar purple shaft 296 duration .557 lift 110 lobe seperation solid lift. from what i understand it's stock heads, dunno what casting, with 1.92 valves. 9.5 compression. currently has a weiend accellerator intake. with a holley 750 hp. i want to change the intake to either a mopar m1 single plane or a victor 340. anyone have any experience with these intakes? i used to have a 95 dakota with the m1 4 barrel intake and it ran very well. (11.92 @ 114) 4000 lb truck with a/c, stereo, 17" r/t rims. anyway, i plan on making this car alot faster. guy i got it from said it runs mid 12's. i am plannin on a 340 stroker. so whatever intake i get will go on the new motor. goal hp is around 800 on nitrous. mid 9's is the goal. so any suggestions?
 
With nos use the victor as it doesn't have distribution problems, if without nos then use the M-1 as they'er very close in performance N/A. Then if your wanting to make 800hp with the nos then you need to get a better block and crank to start with. Let alone the heads won't get you there, you would need at least W-5s or better and preferably P-5s or P-7s. But now your talking $10,000 plus IMO.
For the money spent you would be better off buying a old Pro Stock truck engine for a few $$$$ more.

BJR Racing
 
ok, i was leaning toward the victor. dunno exactly what motor yet. i think i can get the car in the 9's with a 340 stroker. haven't weighed the car yet. 800 might be a bit much, but i've seen chevy small block 408 cu in. make around 800 hp with a stock block. it was 600 n/a with 200 shot of gas. so if a chevy can do it. a mopar can do it better. ;) oh and it'll be on pump gas and streetable.
 
Having a few freinds run both intakes, the Victor has a higher RPM ceiling and a edge on HP up top. They said, combo depending that the M-1 was more suited for a N/A engine and the Victor makes a great oval track manifold being the engine /car is running sustained HI RPM.
 
wish RPM ranges are these manifolds in the real world?
i´m running a holley stripdominator and it realy likes high rpm and i am pretty sure it will take alot more cubic inches than the 340 i have...
 
well the car will be street legal but i want it more race. so the victor is more of the race intake. i'm guessing the victor is more open then?
 
I don't know if "More open" is a correct thing to say about the plenum or to sugest it has larger runners.

Duster 340. The Strip Dom. is the forrunner to the MoPar M-1 single plane. MoPar did offer this intake in there books years ago.
Off hand, I can not remember what there RPM ranges are. The Victor is to 7500 I think.
 
spark plug said:
well the car will be street legal but i want it more race. so the victor is more of the race intake. i'm guessing the victor is more open then?
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*big smile* street legal is in the eyes of the guy lookiing at it, a lot of guys says that a 340 with a big cam(i mean big like 0.630 lift´) its not big, i consider it a streetcar if it is posible to drive it on streetfuel;)


rumblefish360: thanks for the info, maybe i should bur a edelbrock victor manifold insted and sell this holley stripdominator manifold to some guy who has more displacement or likes to rpm even higher than i do then...
 
Victor

IM000613.gif
 
rumblefish360: thanks for the info, maybe i should bur a edelbrock victor manifold insted and sell this holley stripdominator manifold to some guy who has more displacement or likes to rpm even higher than i do then...
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I think you'll be trading 6 for a half dozen here.
If your car is street bound with a reasonable cam, the current intake or M-1 is better off for it. The RPM may even suite.
What the engine specs, cam specs important here. What gear ratio and weight of car?
 
No I haven't, but heard good things also, not many racers around here run them. They'er more into brute HP and over powering there respective catagories, so the need isn't as great. Alot of guys build big CI engines and then back them off, I would have to say that 80% are fuel injected on alcohol or carburated alcohol, not much race gas around here anymore as the cost is too great.


BJR Racing
 
I have a modified unit for a T-Q. I like this intake. Works very well. If you find it cheap,
it's worth the grab modified or not. The RPM is a hair better.

100_0467.jpg
 
Spark, to run 135 mph (roughly 9.60s depending) you need about 700hp at the crank. You will need a MP block. The factory wont do it. You can stroke it easy, if you're not intimidated by the prospect of spending, you'll need serious heads too. Not Edelbrocks. A few of the W series can support that number. Dont know about the Indy offerings, I'm sure they would need a ton of work in anycase. Roller cam is the way to go, and a small "street" roller wont do it. So, you'll be changing valve springs fairly often. Pump gas is out unless you're boosting it, and not with NOS. All in all, very doable, but not in a streetable package, and certainly not without spending twice what BJR said before it's running. Then you'll need the cage, the rear axle and suspension, brakes, one of two fuel systems, and the trans. I would suggest you do a LOT of research into it, or do a little research, hook up with a racer who is doing it, and buy a done car. It will be much cheaper, and you'll be happier in the long run.
 
7172 duster said:
BJR have you tried the super sucker carb spacer I hear they are worth about 10 -18 hp on a race motor
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I have a super sucker and some back to back dyno tests on my motor. I'll find them. I think at peak I made only a few extra HP. but it picked up a good amount under peak if I remember right.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I think you'll be trading 6 for a half dozen here.
If your car is street bound with a reasonable cam, the current intake or M-1 is better off for it. The RPM may even suite.
What the engine specs, cam specs important here. What gear ratio and weight of car?
Click to expand...

340 .030 over 11:1 compresion very solid bottom end MSD igntion heavily ported J heads with 2.02 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust valves...
cam is a solid roller cam cant remember the spec have the camcard in my garage but its rougly 270 degres at 0.050 and total valve lift is .630"
gear ratio is now 3.91:1 but will bee changed to something like 4.10 or 4.56 when i get my other rearend done
weight of car is 3285 pounds with me in it and a full tank of gas and a pretty big toolbox so i gues it will be a litle lighter when i take the car to the strip;)
 
Duster340, With that cam, and ported heads, trying to use a smaller or dual plane intake to get mroe low end is a crutch. Add the gear, and it will wake right up. The M1 is prob your best choice for power, but you might feel a little "soft" under 3000 because of the rest of the engine. he lower gear will get you past that quick tho.
 
moper said:
Duster340, With that cam, and ported heads, trying to use a smaller or dual plane intake to get mroe low end is a crutch. Add the gear, and it will wake right up. The M1 is prob your best choice for power, but you might feel a little "soft" under 3000 because of the rest of the engine. he lower gear will get you past that quick tho.
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great then i will try to get that 8 3/4 done with some lover gears, maybee i should even try that ancient edelbrock tunnelram for a singel carb i have lying around (real sceap swapmeet find) just for fun, but i gues its totaly outdated or totaly useless for a streetcar or am i wrong?
it may bee worth trying?
 
I dont know.lol..Try it...I like tunnel rams. There's a reason Pro Stock uses them..lol. It wont fit under the hood tho. It's an afternoon of setup. Might be fun...Just remeber you'll need to retune almost everything about your carb with it in place. I'd change gears first...
 
yeah iknow but im trying to get the money togheter to put all the right parts into that other axle so that its is basicly bulletprof;)

i think i have a pretty good deal on another fiberglass hood since i dont want to cut up my sixpackscoop, i gues i will try that old singelcarb tunnelram some weekend when i have time over to do the swap i can always swaap back to the holley stripdominator again before i decide if it is worth buying another hood for the tunnelram, need two hoods becuse of the state requires the car to be inspected every two years and they wont like the tunnelram fore some strange reason *lol*
 
340 mopar now that i see it on a complete engine it does not look that tall, i have just had my tunnelram standing on a 318 in my garage and that 318 does not have any valvecovers on it and that makes it look real tall from the pictures you have compared to my memory it seems possible to actualy get all of this in under my sixpack scoop, thanks alot for those pictures!

tunnelram nära.jpg2.jpg
 
have measured some now and that tunnelram is realy tall, it wont even slip under the sixpack scoop without an aircleaner on the carb, but that is not a problem at al now i just need to figure out a way of making all this work with my kickdown linkage and trhotle cable, gues i will have to fabricate something:)
 
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