Which stroker kit for 470" b-engine

-
Old Man Mopar said:
Trick Flow quoted me "less than" $1900 per pair. I'm hoping that these will be all I ever need on my
470 low-deck stroker street motor that I have under construction. Compression ratio will be 10.09:1.
I'm considering either the largest Comp hydraulic roller (.544 int lift) or a small solid roller in the area
between .570 and .620 lift. Opinions on the camshaft selection will be much appreciated. I
probably won't be going to the race track.

Link: http://www.trickflow.com/pressreleases/powerport240cylinder/
Click to expand...

I will never run another hydraulic roller cam without bushing the lifter bores. So, maybe this cam? Comp Cams XR292R solid roller, 254/260 @ .050, .620/.627 lift with 1.6 rockers.

In a 451 stroker, 9.5:1, ported 452 iron heads.......588 lb-ft and 621 HP

Oh yeah, I forgot. The 452 heads were flowing 290 cfm @ .700 lift. With the TrickFlow heads you should be able to run a smaller cam for the same results.
 
Thank you for the info......Why is bushing the lifter bores necessary on the hyd roller?
 
The old lifter bores are so worn that they release the oil pressure around the hydraulic roller lifter and the lifter collapses, especially with higher spring pressures and rpm's. We get hydraulic roller lifters in big blocks that rattle their brains out after runs to 5000 rpm or less.
 
Ok.....then....

A. Not necessary with solid rollers (for obvious reasons) but recommended nonetheless?

B. Hydraulic roller operation completely satisfactory after the lifter bores are bushed?

C. Average ballpark cost to bush the lifter bores in a 400 block (and is it a permanent fix)?

D. Any other reservations about running a hydraulic roller in this application?
 
To this point in time, for me personally, I have never bushed the lifter bores and gone back to the hydraulic roller lifters. I have simply switch over to solid roller lifters/cam. The reason being, the $800 I was quoted to bush the bores. None of my customers wanted to spend the money. I run only solid rollers in my own engines.

Here is the discussion I default to. Information from someone else who has been there. Easier for me to point this out than play it back all here again.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,114997.0.html
 
Old Man Mopar said:
470 low-deck stroker street motor. Compression ratio will be 10.09:1.

I'm considering either the largest Comp hydraulic roller (Part Number 23-713-9, 242/48 @.050, .544 int lift, 110LSA) or a small solid roller in the area between .570 and .620 lift.

Opinions on the camshaft selection will be much appreciated. I probably won't be going to the race track.
Click to expand...

Here are 3 solid roller cams I like for your engine, the first of which falls within or close to your desired spec. The 3rd one is a unique grind I just think is a sweet grind I'd love to try someday.

Cam #1
Crane #688531
Duration [email protected]
Lift .561
LSA 112

Cam #2
Crane #688651
Duration [email protected]
Lift .681/.693
LSA 112

Cam #3
Crane #688681
Duration [email protected]
Lift .675/.638
LSA 114
 
to the OP- I have had the RPM heads- fully ported & beehive springs in a stroked 440- to 489; running a solid cam 260@50 & .650 lift. #3400 E-body ran 10.15's all day & made 650HP.

Get those heads opened up a little, that's the key. On the bottom, run the Chevy 6.535 rods with a 2"big end & .990 pin. A world of difference in clearancing the block! I just built a 496 RB for a friend who already had the mopar 6.76 rods on a 4.15 crank & let me say- I thought I was mining for gold- clearanced to piss from the counterweights, pickup boss, rod ends, etc. Save yourself the hassle & go with the Chevy stuff.

My current build- a 10/1 dish piston- 470 low deck will be getting the new Trickflow heads. We have these custom grind solid CompCams (nitrided)- specs: 252/260 @.050; .541/.559 lift. I'll be using a 1.6 rocker to put it to .598 lift.

the beast should make an easy 600HP/ 600 FTLBS. Mine will also be a mostly street car. Going in a '55 Coronet "Black Betty", modern suspension, 9" rear on 4-link, R&P steer, no idea on the weight yet, but probally #3500. :glasses7:
 
chrisnben said:
My current build- a 10/1 dish piston- 470 low deck will be getting the new Trickflow heads.
We have these custom grind solid CompCams (nitrided)- specs: 252/260 @.050; .541/.559
lift. I'll be using a 1.6 rocker to put it to .598 lift.
Click to expand...
I'll be watching and listening. That build and intended use sounds just like my own. Shooting for
a solid street roller approx. 300/.600. Given the choice, would you rather make that extra .050
lift at the cam or at the rocker? Do you use/recommend lash caps?
 
Im in the process of gathering parts for my own 470 stroker motor ive decided to out source my parts instead of going with one of the kits offered by 440 source,or muscle motors,my budget doesnt allow me to drop that kind of coin at one time. Ive been watching this thread evolve for the last couple weeks and im impressed by what ive been reading.
Where are you guys buying your pistons ive scored the net and 440 source has one of the better prices on pistons and I may go with there brand enless someone can point me in the right direction for a decent set of pistons at a good price id much appreciate.
Heres the cam i choose pretty close to what chrisben and old man mopar have posted

This is going to be a low boost mill that sees street time. Any and all help is always appreciated
Aaron
 
srixon4406 said:
Heres the cam i choose pretty close to what chrisben and old man mopar have posted

This is going to be a low boost mill that sees street time. Any and all help is always appreciated
Aaron
Click to expand...

I can't read the specs clearly in the picture. Can you post them?
 
I may have to defect to a standard solid lifter camshaft. In checking, I was even looking at the $1100/set
Morel solid bushing roller lifters (no needle bearings) and was willing to pay that to eliminate wear concerns
but they still advise pulling them and having them checked every 1500 miles (rebuild if necessary approx.
$600). This is totally not in the picture. I want to drive this car, probably at least that many miles a season;
maybe twice that.
 
Couple things here- I went with the 440S platinum set-up (dished). What they dont mention is that it's a stepped top, so when you zero deck the block, you go to that higher step- which leaves alot below deck (bottom 1/2) plus the dished portion. These are a dual-purpose piston for also using an open chambered head- so you can get quench with that step up into the chamber. Well- I'm running the closed 78cc Trickflow, so we should end up around 10.1 to 1 CR.
Regarding the cam- I like the smaller cams and to add lift at the rocker. More selection in the duration department IMO.
 
Great Thread , I am Looking At A Low Deck stroked 383 was thinking of the 496 ??, I have Indy Heads And Rockers and External Oil Pump , Have not Got Round to it yet As I need A Plan , Would Love 700hp But How To Achieve Reliable Horse Power Is The Question ???
 
IRISH RT said:
Great Thread , I am Looking At A Low Deck stroked 383 was thinking of the 496 ??, I have Indy Heads And Rockers and External Oil Pump , Have not Got Round to it yet As I need A Plan , Would Love 700hp But How To Achieve Reliable Horse Power Is The Question ???
Click to expand...
the cost is vertually the same for 383 or 400 block to build. the 400 has the biggest stock bore of them all. the 383 will run into valve to cylinder wall clearance issues eventually
 
IRISH RT said:
Great Thread , I am Looking At A Low Deck stroked 383 was thinking of the 496 ??, I have Indy Heads And Rockers and External Oil Pump , Have not Got Round to it yet As I need A Plan , Would Love 700hp But How To Achieve Reliable Horse Power Is The Question ???
Click to expand...

It's not a question. You just have to spend.
Three potential qualities of every engine build:
Cheap
Powerful
Reliable.

Pick any two.
Of the three, reliability is the most expensive and subjective.
 
the very long stroke of 4.25" for a 383 really is too much for the bore size, plus the piston is super short. All out racing-sure; street time- would not do it.

Go buy a 400 block for $100 & have it done to 512. It uses the same stroke crank & rod length, but get's the C.I. from the bore size- which is more equal to the stroke.

700HP would be easy with a solid cam north of .600 lift or better yet- supercharge the beast and make it purr like a cat with a smaller cam. As Moper said: 3 variables to consider.
 
chrisnben said:
to the OP- I have had the RPM heads- fully ported & beehive springs in a stroked 440- to 489; running
a solid cam 260@50 & .650 lift.
Click to expand...
Are these the standard Comp Beehive springs (I only see one choice)? Those are pretty strong cam specs.
What are the limitations for those springs (lift, camshaft type)? It's good to hear they work with your setup
as I am considering a slightly milder solid flat tappet grind and may want to use the same springs you have.
 
I'm in the process of building a 470 engine also. I have ported RPM heads on hand but I'd like to run the TF heads if they are available. Lots of piston choices for the 470 engine. I made up an Excel file with all the choices I found I'll see if I can attach a PDF on this forum.
 

Attachments

  • 470_Stroker_Kit.pdf
    111.8 KB · Views: 319
I'm thinking I can make 600 hp with the RPM heads and maybe 650 hp with the TF heads. That is with 10.5 or 11:1 compression and a smallish solid roller cam.

To make that kind of power you need some fairly serious valve lift which gets a little tough to do with the 1.50 rocker arms. I think I can do it if I go with .700 lift but we'll see. PipeMax says it is possible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top