which stroker to build?

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Might want to upgrade the fuel system if you start turning up the HP. 1/2" line, better pump 140 GPH + at least, return style regulator so as to not kill the pump on the street.
 
Talked with Bryce at dr. J's about the air wolf heads. He is putting together a stroker kit combo for me that will make 630hp and 575 tq from a 408 on 91 octane.
 
3.79 stroke / 2 = 1.895 + 6.50 = 8.395

9.60 deck height...- 8.395 = compression height of 1.205....

Siamese bore?.....R3 block....there is 3000 buck of your budget..plus machine work on it.....

never said it would be cheap :) but if i ever was gonna build a stroker small block that would be it, I'd go big block (probably 451) before i would build a stroker small block.
 
Talked with Bryce at dr. J's about the air wolf heads. He is putting together a stroker kit combo for me that will make 630hp and 575 tq from a 408 on 91 octane.

I hope it's better than the boat anchor he put together for a friend of mine.
 
If you want to run high 10's in an A you sure don't need 600+hp deal. 520-530 real FWHP in a good chassis will get you there.

He was involved in a big SB engine that was a pile. Machine work was horrible. He threatened me with legal action because I said something about it. His next call was to my friend! My friend mentioned he got a call from him out of the blue. Never heard from his lawyer... truth is the ultimate defense.
 
Build a Stroked 5.7 and don't look back--Ok I'll shut up and go away-Just was at Norwalk and witnessed several rails in the low 8's at 1/4 and several low 10 sec. cars in the 1/4 with a stroked 5.7--Ok sorry to break in on your thread--Oh and I forgot to mention they were carbed-- Sell the 360 and 340 block and go new school.
 
Build a Stroked 5.7 and don't look back--Ok I'll shut up and go away-Just was at Norwalk and witnessed several rails in the low 8's at 1/4 and several low 10 sec. cars in the 1/4 with a stroked 5.7--Ok sorry to break in on your thread--Oh and I forgot to mention they were carbed-- Sell the 360 and 340 block and go new school.

I appreciate all input on this is why I'm hear. To get all your input from all sides before I spend significant money on something I may regret.
 
If you want to run high 10's in an A you sure don't need 600+hp deal. 520-530 real FWHP in a good chassis will get you there.

He was involved in a big SB engine that was a pile. Machine work was horrible. He threatened me with legal action because I said something about it. His next call was to my friend! My friend mentioned he got a call from him out of the blue. Never heard from his lawyer... truth is the ultimate defense.


gotta love those big dyno numbers that never seem to run at the track what they should...but they sell magazines and pump up egos.....
 
If you want to run high 10's in an A you sure don't need 600+hp deal. 520-530 real FWHP in a good chassis will get you there.

This is true.

He was involved in a big SB engine that was a pile. Machine work was horrible. He threatened me with legal action because I said something about it. His next call was to my friend! My friend mentioned he got a call from him out of the blue. Never heard from his lawyer... truth is the ultimate defense.

What areas of the build were they involved in? And what went wrong specifically, if you don't mind my asking?
 
I think the $1800 is cheap for what you're selling - but in this market you'll certainly sell it.

As far as the new package - I'd sonic the 340s first - use the best of them and if they fail - then test the 360s. I'd grab .040 of bore in a heartbeat when it's a race engine. As for heads - I've always liked the RPMs but for your expectations they'd be maxed out. I'd rather use a set of 360-1 ovals. They'll need the ususal fix-up work (Indy sucks) but they'll move the air you need with a basic hand porting, blending and good valve job. They also leave a lot of expansion room should you decide you want to go faster. A 408, 416, 422, or larger with a solid roller cam will have no trouble making the power you need with that top end and leave you room to grow.
Personally - I stay away from the Air Wolf stuff until they get thier sh_t together. "cause with the few thigns i've seen they are too far in front of reality. No sense in being thier R&D after waiting for them to arrive... Just my opinion of course.
 
As of now. He priced me a set of his heads. A stroker kit w/ forged crank and h beam rods. Clevite bearings. CP pistons to be at 11:0.1
Aiming for a cam in the range of .258-260 and .650-670 was going to go hydraulic roller. Now leaning more toward solid roller. I like the comp. magnum rockers like I have on my old 360. Or maybe some Harland sharps.
I think maybe lookin for a 950hp carb. If anyone has one or similar for sale.
 
Go solid roller and don't look back. Have the lifter bores bushed for this.
 
what kinda cost is involved on bushing the lifters. and do i need to? I'm taking the block down saturday to have it rechecked to make sure it is ok. dad said was checked years ago and was good go. but i would rather pay to do it again and make sure.
 
Went with heads from
MRL Performance.also a balanced stroker kit. His roller lifters. Solid roller cam. Studs. Wind age tray. Etc. mike hooked me up. A great guy. Very helpful. And a fellow abodies only member. He said for sure the combo is gonna make 600-630 hp on 91 premium fuel. Can't wait to get this beast running and hope to afford a dyno day.
 
Well, I'm a little late on the reply, but I was going to say, why not get a set of GOOD heads on your current combo and put in a healthy solid or solid roller cam? You could achieve your goal of low 11's to high 10's with less money...but strokers are VERY NICE too....heck, I love mine, I was just sayn you could save some coin if that is your goal.
 
Sitting here on vacation this week. Can't wait for my main studs to show and pistons so can get machine work started.
 
Christmas has come early boys. Got some goodies for my 408. Should have cam, heads and rotating kit next week.
 

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