UDUST81
Well-Known Member
move then
Why does Dodge go cheap with their steel?
- Thread starter doogievlg
- Start date
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Thanks for the advice numb nuts.
UDUST81
Well-Known Member
youre welcome
mopar head
Well-Known Member
and this ended well lol
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I had m1994 silverado rustproofed and undercoated before i drove it off the lot. Spent one winter in N.J. very mild winter. Light dustings of snow. No road salt. Aug 1995 i beat feet to Texas and never left. Body is still rock solid. Paints burnt off the hood and roof from the brutal sun we have though.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Not sure why so different where you are. I even live on a dirt/gravel road and my 05 Chevy has no rust yet where as the neighbors Dodge is full of holes.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
That's the same basic truck I drove to 642K before giving it away to a kid. Mine was a white Cheyenne. Incredible truck. Was happiest at 80+....The faster the better.
Dustdevl340
Westie Dad & All Around Mopar Fanatic
saw a silver Dodge today, doubt it was more than 5 years old, lower body, rockers and bed all rusting out. If it was mine I'd be pissed.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yep good truck. Mine has 160K on it now. Uses about 1 qt oil every 3k. 5 speed with original clutch. Been thru 2 alternators, 2 water pumps, 1 radiator, plus the usual preventative MTX, and wear items. Pic is from last winter in my shop, and at my local boneyard strippin parts off a 71 scamp.
Special ordered by me new. Silverado 350, 5 speed O/D 3.55 gears with a locker, reg cab longbed, 60/40 bench, power everything. Oddball truck fully loaded with a 5 speed, but thats what i wanted. It likes 75mph. I have recorded 25 mpg highway with it, so i cant complain.
I got a nice cowl induction hood prepped and primered i will be installing soon as i edge and jamb out the underside.
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thesiren74
Well-Known Member
They all rust! Best thing to do is take out the inner wheel well plastic and under coat. Another thing is to coat the inside of the door's and make sure to keep free of debris.
Mine was a '94 Cheyenne. The work truck with the single headlights. Rubber floor, crank up windows, am/fm, ect with an auto. I did one water pump around 350k. Started leaking at the shaft on my way home in the dark. Coated my shoelace in grease from the chassis and encased the whole thing in 5min epoxy. Got me to the auto parts store and fixed it under a street light. 9/16 was all I needed if I remember correctly. Did 2 fuel pumps. First one around 300k, second around 500k. I cut a whole through the bed because the tank was full.
Don't worry about the oil. When it starts tapping add a quart. You never have to change the oil. Just change the filter every 50k or so. Lol
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I love the water pump change on these too. I run an electric fan so its as easy as drain the coolant, untension and remove the belt, lower hose, and 4 water pump bolts.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
If you want to take your new truck and help it out, pop the door panels off, drain plugs off etc. Anywhere that the water can lay, and spend a few bucks for some cans of Dinitrol AV25. This is an aerosol spray type of C.I.C. or corrosion inhibiting compound. Its used in aircraft to prevent corrosion in moisture prone areas. You can also buy a thicker brush on version called Dinitrol AV100D. It can also be thinned to a spraying consistency. Water likes to lay in the pinched together areas inside at the bottom of the doors, rockers, hood, tailgate, fenders et . Spraying enough of this in there prevents it from doing that. After spraying, make sure the drain holes are clear. Shoot it inside the rocker panel drains, up inside the hood etc. especially the fwd edges where the metal is spot welded together. Anywhere there is a seam, thats angled to hold water, water will get in, lie there, and theres going to be problems down the line. I'm in the airline industry and we use this and another product called CorBan to prevent corrosion on the aircraft. The entrance areas, as well as below the galleys and lavatories are the worst areas for corrosion. For water displacement, these products work quite well.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
You have the Aluminum F150 option.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Aluminum corrodes too. Just in a different way than steel, and is harder to repair.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Yes, I know. I'm Ford trained in structural repair on the 2015+, F150.
I still think they are a better option for those living in the rust belt.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yep very true, but a worse option for those of us living in tornado alley. Hailstones. Sometimes as big as softballs, but well in that case nothing is a good option except a garage to park in, or a carport to park under.
I think the jury is out....... any of them can rust, and any of them can be rock solid. As I posted, mine is an '01 Ram with 236,*** and no rust living in the rust belt state. Others have fenders flapping in the wind. Find one solid, keep it solid.
back home ( old home) in Missouri, plenty of older dodges, and all brands, on the road every day... because people can't and sometimes won't pay the stupid prices of new trucks!! me included. ( can't and won't if I could!) ha)....
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I wouldent pay $50K for an effing pickup, or a car for that matter. Now they got 7 and 8 year loans. I remember when 5 years was concidered nuts. My silverado cost me $18,500 in 1994 that was plenty of money then. I dont mind a modest price increase, but when strippo pickups are $24k?!? Well them assholes can keep them.
My wife wanted an effing suburban or tahoe. I hate those damn things. ******* hog with gas mileage. Just a straight up pig. I told her yeah, you can have one, when you make the payments on it. Again $50k plus they can keep them. Not buying a car or truck that costs 1/3 the cost of a house.
My wife wanted an effing suburban or tahoe. I hate those damn things. ******* hog with gas mileage. Just a straight up pig. I told her yeah, you can have one, when you make the payments on it. Again $50k plus they can keep them. Not buying a car or truck that costs 1/3 the cost of a house.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Bought my '02 Durango new in November '01. It lived outdoors, was driven daily, and I busted my *** to keep it up. In September of '13, some Frenchman in a rental going the wrong way on a one way in Chi did this to us on our way to DePaul.......
So I bought the used '05 Ram. I knew it would rust and decided I'd just deal with it as I go.
In those cases, forget the vehicle. You got out with your lives, and intact!
ir3333
Well-Known Member
poorly recycled steel is usually a bargain...and still contains contaminants including oxygen.When finances are stressed companies are forced to buy cheap steel and parts...and your new truck will fail mechanically and rust from the inside out no matter how much paint or undercoating is used.This can be year specific depending the companies' financial health.We all have seen certain years including those early 70's chevys' that just rusted out in 2 or 3 years.That's why it's imperative to buy a mint 3 or 4 year old truck and know your good...or take your chances.
A lot of the late Dodges will be scrapped in 7 or 8 years
A lot of the late Dodges will be scrapped in 7 or 8 years
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74Dusted
Stock Piler of 340's
My '92 Dakota has no rust issues, despite being a plow truck. Its big problem is the common 1990's-2000's garbage base coat/clear coat.
The 5.2L Magnum wiped out the cam and roller lifters around 212,000 miles, but I didn't want to get rid of the truck because it was solid. So I replaced the Magnum engine with a Turbo Diesel swap.
The 5.2L Magnum wiped out the cam and roller lifters around 212,000 miles, but I didn't want to get rid of the truck because it was solid. So I replaced the Magnum engine with a Turbo Diesel swap.
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