Wideband

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RyanUpdike70

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Does anybody use wideband to tune with. I looking into buying a autometer one. Planed to run oxygen sensor in the middle of the x pipe.If anyone has pics of there please post Thanks
 
I have an Innovate LM-1. The sensor should be as close as posible to the exhaust manifold/headers. If you're carburated you can't change anything except the overall mixture. Put it in the headpipe just behind the exhaust manifold. Be sure that it is placed between 12-3 or 9-12, if not it will collect moisture and go bad.
 
+1 with what Ted said. Innovate has features to tune the sensor output. It gives greater interface flexibility with ECUs, if you move on to fuel injection.
 
I purchased a wideband digital set up from Glowshift on ebay a couple of years ago.. I had oxygen sensor bungs welded in to my exhaust, just behind the header collector.

System came with guage, digital controller with data logging output if you want to use it and all wiring with a bosch heated o2 sensor. cost about 200 bucks

best tuning aid I have ever used.. I can monitor by a/f ratio while driving and then once I have all the jets and springs and rods set up and get the mixtures where I want them, I remove the sensor so I don't wear it out unnecessarily.. and take the guage off the dash, and remove the entire system from the car.

I wired the system into my cars electrical system with a trailer 4 wire plug , so it can be reinstalled quickly whenever I want to check the tune.
 
..............Bought a complete Innovate with gauge off 'th bay' for just under 140. Bought metric nuts to use for bungs at the local fastener's store for 1.80 apiece, as I recall.
 
As much as we drive these cars I would not worry about the sensor going bad. I have an AEM unit. I too will be using NOS. I have not chose a spot as of yet for mounting in the exhaust system. The sensor should be at an angle so condensation does not build up on it like stated earlier above.

Mounting it in your X Pipe you will not get an accurate reading. The sensor may not even get hot enough to operate correctly.
 
mines mounted 6" after the collector. I use the AEM unit. works great to me. you will be surprised how off your jetting is after you use it.
 
RyanUpdike70 said:
Where shouldit be mounted to get equal reading
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Your not going to get an equal reading unless you run 2 gauges. Some guys put a bung on each side and just move the sensor around to get an idea of where the other bank is at. With fuel injection you can individually tune how much fuel goes to each cylinder "Sequential" but with a carb you will have a rough time trying to fine tune each bank. Most guys don't worry about it with a carb and just use the sensor off 1 bank of cylinders.
 
Mad Dart said:
Your not going to get an equal reading unless you run 2 gauges. Some guys put a bung on each side and just move the sensor around to get an idea of where the other bank is at. With fuel injection you can individually tune how much fuel goes to each cylinder "Sequential" but with a carb you will have a rough time trying to fine tune each bank. Most guys don't worry about it with a carb and just use the sensor off 1 bank of cylinders.
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Agreed, I have a bung in each side.. move it if I want to confirm, but usually just use 1 side, than equalize the adjustments on my carb.. from side to side.
 
I don't understand this "bank to bank" thing. Carbs are not isolated on each bank. Using a 180* manifold, each side of the carb fires half the cylinders on both banks. Using a 360* manifold, the are STILL not isolated bank to bank.
 
67Dart273 said:
I don't understand this "bank to bank" thing. Carbs are not isolated on each bank. Using a 180* manifold, each side of the carb fires half the cylinders on both banks. Using a 360* manifold, the are STILL not isolated bank to bank.
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It comes down to distribution issues created in the intake plenum/runners and this is why you will get a reading variation on the gauge from bank to bank. DP EFI mostly eliminates this.
 
In theory, MPFI (multi-port fuel injection) can give worse cyl-cyl distribution than a carburetor. That happens if the fuel injectors are mis-matched in flow. No factory systems I know of monitor and adjust individual cylinders (maybe a Harley?). Most such implementations use exhaust temperature sensors to measure cylinder imbalance, but usually just in race engines. Some tuners approximate that with a hand-held IR thermometer (while exhaust is still hot).

To insure uniform distribution with MPFI, you must remove the injectors and flow test them. I should do that on my modern Mopars since both are >190K miles. So far I have trusted in an occasional bottle of injector cleaner (witchcraft) and very occasional fillup with Chevron to run some "Techraline" (whatever that is, just methanol?). Those MPFI injectors just seem to run forever with no problems, which I never predicted 20 years ago.
 
my O2 is mounted in the header right before the collector on the passenger side...Now when I have my 87 Monte SS i sprayed the crap out of the motor...i went through 02 sensors all the time...so no spray on this motor...im just saying what happened to my sensors..heat is heat...
 
Can you use the AEM/MTX-L type gauge as just a plug in tool or is something like the Innovate LM-2 the better option? I'm thinking of terms of having more than one vehicle to tune.
 
Revhendo said:
Can you use the AEM/MTX-L type gauge as just a plug in tool or is something like the Innovate LM-2 the better option? I'm thinking of terms of having more than one vehicle to tune.
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For that need, perhaps best to get a wideband sensors that installs up the exhaust pipe with a temporary clamp (several kits). You need to run a cable to it, so maybe go up into the trunk and under the seats. Unlike narrow-band O2, wideband sensors control their heat so can work anywhere downstream. However, drawbacks of the rear mount are that you can't use well for close-loop control due to the time lag, and if you have any exhaust leaks that suck in outside air, you could get a false reading.

If you decide to put wideband O2 sensors in bungs, never run the engine with a sensor in but not connected to the box. That can damage the sensors permanently since the passages get plugged with soot without the heater constantly burning it off. Order plenty of plugs to use when not installed.
 
i have done a little bit of reading and i dont quite under stand the sending unit heater? this looks like it needs to be hooked to a switch and turned on prior to starting the car? not sure i understand the wiring. I am interested in getting one of these to help tune my fuel curve.
 
You just need to wire it to switched ignition. Wideband setups are a whole different ballgame than a narrow band.
 
By sending unit heater, I presume you mean the o2 sensor.. Mine is a Bosch LS4 ( I beleive) and is heated.. It is wired through my Wideband system so that whenever the vehicle is running it received 12 volts to heat it.

I do not put power to it prior to starting.
 
ken5124 said:
By sending unit heater, I presume you mean the o2 sensor.. Mine is a Bosch LS4 ( I beleive) and is heated.. It is wired through my Wideband system so that whenever the vehicle is running it received 12 volts to heat it.

I do not put power to it prior to starting.
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Really...how is your wired ??? with my FAST system I have to flip seperate switch for my fuel pump then i turn the key to accesory for 15 sec then i can start the car...the 02 has to heat up first...dont know why...thats the way the directions had me do it...two sep power suppies and sep juction boxes...now i only have to do this when car is cold...otherwise the computor flashes and iI have to go ito tuner and erase the error

also...OP your car is sweeet love your hood..great taste :D
 
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