will J heads work on a 318? And many many more questions.

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No heat cross over = longer warm up time. IMO, big freakin deal. The least of your problems/woories.

I have a Edelbrocks heads & Air Gap on my Cuda/360. When it gets cold out, it just takes alittle while longer to warm up. The truly hard part of it all is the open air cleaner suckin in cold ait. It closes the choke down over and over again.
A regular air cleaner fixed that problem along with a choke stove being hooked up.
 
rumblefish360 said:
No heat cross over = longer warm up time. IMO, big freakin deal. The least of your problems/woories.

I have a Edelbrocks heads & Air Gap on my Cuda/360. When it gets cold out, it just takes alittle while longer to warm up. The truly hard part of it all is the open air cleaner suckin in cold ait. It closes the choke down over and over again.
A regular air cleaner fixed that problem along with a choke stove being hooked up.
Click to expand...

Shoot.. I didn't know you had eddy heads?

come on...lets hear the rest of the combo.:cheers:he he
 
This combo was/is in my '73 360 4spd 4.10 geared Cuda with 275/60/15's on the rear.

360 + 030
KB 107 at zero deck
Forget the cam, I changed them around for fun and I'll detail them later.
Edelbrocks up top. (Heads and Air Gap)
On the heads, a MP hardened rocker shafts w/ Comp roller rockers and MP hold downs in blue anodized billet aluminum. I have also used this short block with small and big valve J heads.
Hooker Super Comp headers. Not the 1 size fits all! 1-3/4 tube, 3 inch collector. 2-1/2 inch H piped exhaust and Hooker Max Flows. (Same as dyno max units)
14X3 K&N with extreme lid.
Ignition was gone through the orange box (FIRED!) a Mopar Chrome box, Nice, worked well.) FBO ingition, better or worse...it'd be splitin hairs, better bang cost for the buck, MSD 6, Jacobs Pro Street ignition. (Serious unit, very)

Cams have been, whew, I'm not I can list them all, ummm

Crane 272/284 Hyd.
MP's 292/.509 H
MP's 288/.499 H
Umm A Comp Cams hyd. can't remember the spec on the Hyd
Slated for use, but never got to it.

Comp Cams 294 solid @ .550 lift. It'll be up for sale soon.

I have also swapped out different intakes on it from OE 4bbl., Torker II 360 & the LD340 modded as per the MP books. Yes, it also sported many different carbs.
625 AFB Carter, 750 Carter, T-Q's Avs, small and large, Holley's in DP for..since it is a 4spd...why not, LOL!

I never track ran it in the more powerful forms, but, it has been a blast on the street. I like cleaning the clocks of big blocks that *Think* there tuff. My fav. was a vert 442 Olds. When I got done with him, I would not be surprise if he lost his girl freind and commited hairy cary with a jump off the bridge to be sure. (Filippn fool! Ha ha ha ha ha)

I fried the engine because I got to caught up winning thebattle and not the war during a street thumping match between me and a Nova. I was told (Yea right!) that it was a 11 second Nove small block. (Again, yea right!)
I won the battle but lost the war....until further notice that is........

Beat him, didn't clean his clock, but beat him.
 
No heat cross over = longer warm up time. IMO, big freakin deal. The least of your problems/woories.
Click to expand...

I don't know what the weather is like where you live, but here, the carb ices up and it floods your engine to the point of dying on high idle..... But then again, I live in a place where 90% Humidity and -20 is kinda normal. For your average lower 48 mildish winter, no heat crossover would be fine I guess. I just start my truck for like five minutes, then shut it off for a minute or so, then it heatsoaks the carb, and it is fine from then. Headers help the engine compartment temp a lot too, and an electric/viscous fan........
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
I don't know what the weather is like where you live, but here, the carb ices up and it floods your engine to the point of dying on high idle..... But then again, I live in a place where 90% Humidity and -20 is kinda normal. For your average lower 48 mildish winter, no heat crossover would be fine I guess. I just start my truck for like five minutes, then shut it off for a minute or so, then it heatsoaks the carb, and it is fine from then. Headers help the engine compartment temp a lot too, and an electric/viscous fan........
Click to expand...

Well, you certainly have a very good point there. I've seen ice on a carb only once. -20's around here just don't happen in the worst winter conditions. Except that one winter a few years back, Freak winter cold spell for a couple of weeks. Working nights outside really sucked then. I think that was the only week(s) I wished I moved into the work places shop. But that's 50 miles away. Thphhhhhhhh!

For the most part, even if the car is insured during the winter, it's not really out and running. The daily driver, is a carbed car, is has the heat crossover and heat stove from the header hooked up. It doesn't make anysense any other way really. Cold mornings in the teens and 20's will have the car taking a few to warm up, no sense deleating items that will prolong that. Not on the main car used every day no matter what it's like outside.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
cool.

that comp 294* .550 would work nice in a 408.
Click to expand...

???? You need a cam??? Ha ha ha ha!

I wanted to also go with a retro fit roller until "That" roller fitment issue thread came up. That was the second time I seen an issue with the retro rollers. I backed away until I could learn something about it.

I also wanted to grab a 1.6 rocker for a .569-ish lift. (after lash???) I for get what the lash is. Anyway, that works well with the heads flow abilty at/around that lift.
 
Well, I have kind of decided that I am probably going to regasket the 318, use the stock heads and cam. Maybe throw on one of the performer intakes. and drive it. What is the difference of the Weiand intake and a performer with an inch carb spacer? Then they will look about the same. I don't understand how the intake can make so much difference other than with flow. Since my cam is to big, and I don't have money for another. I will have to wait on that.

Thanks again for all your suggestions.
 
The weiand has a lean problem with 4&6 and 3&5.........

Or a rich problem with the outer cylinders......... LOL, depends on how you look at it.

Performer is much more consistent........ But from your posts, I don't think you will notice either one.
 
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