Wiring in a volts gauge.

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Bad Sport

Bad Sport

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I'm in the process of redoing my dash and want to bypass the gauge in the cluster and wire in an aftermarket gauge.

Do I use the factory connection? Do I just connect those to wires and wire the gauge elsewhere?

The electrical system is not part of my clear understanding in some areas.
 
The "factory connection" for your ammeter are 2 ring terminals, separate from the rest of the dash. You can just connect together, but better to run a bypass in the engine bay. This would be from the alternator output (big stud) to BATT+. Most people go to the big stud on the starter relay instead of BATT+. However, you do it, don't leave any uninsulated terminals hanging w/ 12 V on them. For the new voltmeter, connect + to IGN1 off the starter switch or ACC at the fuse box. Connect - to a good ground.

Many here say "I don't know electricity", but they were the same ones who didn't pay attention in science class, saying "I'll never use this". Ditto whenever they need a little algebra to understand dyno charts. It is simple to find tutorials on the web, try wikipedia and youtube.
 
Badsport said:
I'm in the process of redoing my dash and want to bypass the gauge in the cluster and wire in an aftermarket gauge.

Do I use the factory connection? Do I just connect those to wires and wire the gauge elsewhere?

The electrical system is not part of my clear understanding in some areas.
Click to expand...

i did this bypass Bruce. then i wired my volt guage to a switched hot out of my fuse box and to ground.
 

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Yep. you want switched igntion, which is a little difficult to access, as it does not go through the fuse panel, OR you can just use switched accessory, which means the meter will be on in "accessory" not a big deal. Just get into the back of your box, find a spare connector, and run an inline fuse with about a 1A fuse off to the meter.

Here's a thread about mounting them right in place of the ammeter. In that case, you can solder to the IGN trace on the board --the one supplying power to the instrument VR

It's a long thread, and covers at least three types of clusters

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion
 
OK, does the wire that goes to the ammeter power the dash lights and gauges?? I installed a new cluster, bypassed the ammeter and nothing works on the cluster. :coffee2:
 
Badsport said:
OK, does the wire that goes to the ammeter power the dash lights and gauges?? I installed a new cluster, bypassed the ammeter and nothing works on the cluster. :coffee2:
Click to expand...

In the wiring diagram above you can see that the ammeter wiring connects to the fuse block (the section that is hot all the time), the ignition switch and light switch. If you've eliminated the ammeter wiring that may be your problem.
 
I'm guessing that is my problem, so now I need to power the dash. :-(

I see a wire going to the light switch, but it's Greek to me.

I understand some electrical but far from all of it.
 
Yup. Look at the simplified diagram posted. The "welded splice" they are showing is a factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire, and it supplies several things depending on the year of the car. At the very least it supplies

the hot feed to the fuse box

main hot feed to the ignition switch

headlight (only) power to the headlight switch. So that original black ammeter wire MUST be powered.

Unless you are rewiring the car with an aftermarket harness, you need to hook the two together and taped under the dash, leave the black hooked to the alternator and leave the red hooked to the battery feed, as WELL as either bypassing or improving the connections through the bulkhead.

Then run an additional wire from the alternator to the battery. What this creates then, is the original wires become a PARALLEL battery feed INTO the car. In other words, electrically, the black ammeter wire is now actually hooked to the battery via the new bypass wire. This means that you have a larger gauge wire for a battery feed into the car
 
67Dart273 said:
Yup. Look at the simplified diagram posted. The "welded splice" they are showing is a factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire, and it supplies several things depending on the year of the car. At the very least it supplies

the hot feed to the fuse box

main hot feed to the ignition switch

headlight (only) power to the headlight switch. So that original black ammeter wire MUST be powered.

Unless you are rewiring the car with an aftermarket harness, you need to hook the two together and taped under the dash,

Did that.

leave the black hooked to the alternator and leave the red hooked to the battery feed, as WELL as either bypassing or improving the connections through the bulkhead.

Then run an additional wire from the alternator to the battery. What this creates then, is the original wires become a PARALLEL battery feed INTO the car. In other words, electrically, the black ammeter wire is now actually hooked to the battery via the new bypass wire. This means that you have a larger gauge wire for a battery feed into the car


So if I run a wire from the alternator to the battery, it will power the red wire that came in originally?? Is that correct?

Then because the red and black are hooked together it will power the fuse panel, ignition and headlight switch?? Am I thinkin' straight on this?
Click to expand...

The diagram shows the black going to the starter relay, is that the original and I am adding a second wire?
 
On my 65 Dart wagon I am eliminating completely the wiring for the ammeter. To get power to the light switch, hot fuse, and ignition switch, I will be routing the wiring from a maxi-fuse/relay center using an appropriate size fuse and wiring for each circuit. Relays will be used for headlights and other items as needed. The wiring from the alternator output will be routed to the battery positive via the relay center. It will also be protected with maxi-fuses. It all looks good on paper.
 
Badsport said:
The diagram shows the black going to the starter relay, is that the original and I am adding a second wire?
Click to expand...

i located both the red and black that go into the bulkhead inside the car, cut them off, and soldered and heat shrank new wires and ran them both through the firewall to the starter relay just like its shown in the diagram. this after i connected the ammeter wires together. the red and black are wired to a new fusible link, then to the relay.
 

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the wire on the right is my new fusible link running to my new wire to my alternator
 

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Dang, you should have it. Does ANYTHING have power?

Headlights? Dome light?

I steered you a little wrong from the MAD article in my earlier post, but what you describe SHOULD work.

Two thoughts come to mind:

The ammeter terminals can and do fail in the molded terminals, but in your case, should only "negate" the parallel red wire

The factory welded splices CAN and DO fail. I'm privy to at least 6, 2 or 3 of which were right on this board. This splice is in the original black ammeter lead under the dash. You have to follow from the original ammeter ring terminal, untape as you go, and several inches to a foot into the harness, you'll find the splice.

Before you do that, I'd make sure you have power at the old ammeter wires. I'd disconnect them (with battery unhooked) then hook the battery back up and you should have power to BOTH with your hookup.

I assume the red on your alternator goes directly to the starter relay?
 
Well, so far all I have done is connect the two wires on the ammeter together. I'm just trying to wrap my head around it before going any further.

When I get into wiring detail my grey matter oozes out my ears, lol.

So if I run the wire from the alt. to the starter relay and I connect the black and red wire that was on the ammeter and run that to the starter relay that should complete my circuit, if I'm understanding this right, right?
 
Badsport said:
Well, so far all I have done is connect the two wires on the ammeter together. I'm just trying to wrap my head around it before going any further.

When I get into wiring detail my grey matter oozes out my ears, lol.

So if I run the wire from the alt. to the starter relay and I connect the black and red wire that was on the ammeter and run that to the starter relay that should complete my circuit, if I'm understanding this right, right?
Click to expand...

LOL, yes, but you want to cut them and add new wire at the bulkhead inside the car after connecting the ammeter wires together, then run them straight to a fusible link then the relay
 
73AbodEE said:
LOL, yes, but you want to cut them and add new wire at the bulkhead inside the car after connecting the ammeter wires together, then run them straight to a fusible link then the relay
Click to expand...

Right, got that part. Now on to the fusible link, is that something I can pick up at the parts crib?
 
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