ok replaced the coil, getting spark (I think), getting fuel,
So instead of TESTING, you decided to throw parts at it? What exactly do you mean "think" you have spark. Don't "think" CHECK it
Get a spark tester from the auto store, and a bag of clip leads from Radio Shack (and a multimeter)
Hook up your spark tester, "hang" it so you can see it through the hood gap and crank the engine USING THE KEY.
There's a very GOOD reason why I posted this. You might be alone and need to test for a good spark.
"USING THE KEY"
The reason for that statement is, there are two ignition power paths
When the key is in the "run" position, known as IGN1, power comes from the ign switch, through the bulkhead connector, and to the "switch side" of the ballast resistor, and branches off and feeds the regulator and alternator field.
THIS IS IMPORTANT
Because in "start" the above path is DEAD. The ONLY source of power to the ignition when twisting the key to "start" is what's called "IGN2" or the ballast bypass circuit. This power comes from the ignition switch on a separate contact, through the bulkhead, and to the COIL PLUS end of the ballast resistor
THIS MEANS that if this circuit is "dead" (broken) you will not have spark in "start."
YOU WANT TO CHECK SPARK right at the coil tower, at first, in order to eliminate troubles introduced by such things as a bad rotor or cap, bad coil wire, or bad plug wires
So I'll REPEAT. "Rig" your spark tester right at the coil tower, so you can see it through the hood gap, and then crank the engine USING THE KEY.
You are hoping for a nice fat blue spark at least 3/8 and typically 1/2" long
Be absolutely CERTAIN that the ECU is GROUNDED. Remove the box, scrape it and the firewall clean, and remount using star washers.
Remove the distributor connector, the ECU connector, and the ballast connectors, and inspect them visually for damage or corrosion. "Work" them in/ out several times to scrub them clean and to "feel" for tightness.
If you do NOT have spark AT THE COIL and AGAIN check this FIRST AT THE COIL
Troubles could be:
1--no power or low power (12v) to the system
Use a meter or test light on coil positive. When cranking, voltage at coil + should be "same as battery" WHEN USING THE KEY. You can "try" using a clip lead from coil positive to a battery source. Do not leave this hooked up any longer than needed to test, less than a minute. Coil will be damaged.
2--distributor gap or problems with pickup or reluctor in distributor, or bad connection at the distributor connector.
Check reluctor/ pickup for rust/ debri or strike damage. CHECK the reluctor gap with a .008" (inches not metric) BRASS feeler gauge. (nonmagnetic.) O'Reallys had these
3--no ground on the box
Remove the box, scrape the firewall and box clean and reinstall using star lock washers
4--poor connection at the ECU connector
Inspect, work in/ out. Use judgement
5--bad ECU
Save for about last
6--bad ballast resistor
Easy to check. Use your ohmeter with connectors pulled off. Should be a very low resistance
