Would you be interested?

Like the idea?

  • Yes, interesting!

    Votes: 39 73.6%
  • No, too many 318 projects as it is...

    Votes: 14 26.4%

  • Total voters
    53
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318willrun

Utube channel 318willrun
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I've been thinking for quite a while now (long before all these 318 threads have popped up...lol) about doing a project I haven't seen yet. That would be assembling a LA 318 with all LA 318 parts, but any part from a LA 318 from '67-91.
  • NO PARTS CAN BE MODIFIED for performance gain. If it has a piece of flashing or a burr from factory cast, it stays!
  • I can use any cam from '67-91. Same with heads. Same with intakes. Same with distributors. Etc etc. But cannot modify them.
  • I can replace worn parts with "replacement parts" like from Rock Auto. But no performance parts as replacement parts.
  • Example, I cannot mess with the springs in the distributor for curve, or any other performance mod. But I can use any distributor that came on a LA 318.
It does not stop with the engine. THE CAR. The car can run any gear that a 318 CAR (not truck or van) came with. Any 904/727, and gear that would have been found in a production 318 car. You get the point.

Then, it goes to the track to see what a LA 318, with unmodified LA 318 parts, with a LA 318 converter and transmission, and gears that would have come behind a LA 318 car turns for a ET. And the car has to weigh what a LA 318 car would have weighed.
 
Obviously, this would be a build on my channel, but would also document it here on FABO as well
 
Go for it. Too many 318 builds, here or on You Tube go off on left field with modded 2 barrel intakes, ported heads and all the go fast goodies. We all know that you can build a 400 horse 318 if you throw enough parts and dollars at it.
 
I've been thinking for quite a while now (long before all these 318 threads have popped up...lol) about doing a project I haven't seen yet. That would be assembling a LA 318 with all LA 318 parts, but any part from a LA 318 from '67-91.
  • NO PARTS CAN BE MODIFIED for performance gain. If it has a piece of flashing or a burr from factory cast, it stays!
  • I can use any cam from '67-91. Same with heads. Same with intakes. Same with distributors. Etc etc. But cannot modify them.
  • I can replace worn parts with "replacement parts" like from Rock Auto. But no performance parts as replacement parts.
  • Example, I cannot mess with the springs in the distributor for curve, or any other performance mod. But I can use any distributor that came on a LA 318.
It does not stop with the engine. THE CAR. The car can run any gear that a 318 CAR (not truck or van) came with. Any 904/727, and gear that would have been found in a production 318 car. You get the point.

Then, it goes to the track to see what a LA 318, with unmodified LA 318 parts, with a LA 318 converter and transmission, and gears that would have come behind a LA 318 car turns for a ET. And the car has to weigh what a LA 318 car would have weighed.
Are you saying you can use any 318 parts or any small block parts?
 
I'd sure be interested.
360s aren't getting any cheaper or more plentiful, and forget about 340s for the average Joe cruiser.
318s are still plentiful and cheap, and it'd be useful to be able to show what "factory" 318 parts are capable of without needing to dive into aluminum heads and intakes, stroker cranks and rumpity-rump cams.
Since you've been thinking about it for a while, you've likely already got most of your ideas for the build; but I'd like to throw a couple of my own thoughts into the ring.
'86ish to '91 roller block with stock cam; or '68-'69 block with the higher compression pistons. I'd still use the higher compression pistons in the roller block, too.
The old standby 318-3 forged crank and early bushed rods.
302 heads with earlier (non-rotator) valvetrain. "Unmodified" factory parts means you can't plug the air injection holes, so you'll need to use '74-'75 exhaust manifolds to cover them.
Late '70s 318 cop motor four barrel manifold, T.Q. or Q-Jet depending on year, and air cleaner. I've read conflicting reports that these motors still used a version of the"340" cam, if so it'd be a good pick for a flat tappet motor.
Stock electronic ignition, but with the '68-'69 advance springs; or just use the stock '68-'69 single point distributor (yes, really!)
For a trans, late 60's you could get a four speed with a teener, and the towing package got you an 8.75 rear with darn near any gear. If you gotta run an auto, an early '80s 998 with the low first gearset.
Body? Lightest one that qualifies would be the '68-'69 Valiant or Dart 2 door post.
Just a couple of thoughts for you and good luck!
 
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Go for it. Too many 318 builds, here or on You Tube go off on left field with modded 2 barrel intakes, ported heads and all the go fast goodies. We all know that you can build a 400 horse 318 if you throw enough parts and dollars at it.
400 hp 318's have been around for a while... I agree
 
I'd sure be interested.
360s aren't getting any cheaper or more plentiful, and forget about 340s for the average Joe cruiser.
318s are still plentiful and cheap, and it'd be useful to be able to show what "factory" 318 parts are capable of without needing to dive into aluminum heads and intakes, stroker cranks and rumpity-rump cams.
Since you've been thinking about it for a while, you've likely already got most of your ideas for the build; but I'd like to throw a couple of my own thoughts into the ring.
'86ish to '91 roller block with stock cam; or '68-'69 block with the higher compression pistons. I'd still use the higher compression pistons in the roller block, too.
The old standby 318-3 forged crank and early bushed rods.
302 heads with earlier (non-rotator) valvetrain. "Unmodified" factory parts means you can't plug the air injection holes, so you'll need to use '74-'75 exhaust manifolds to cover them.
Late '70s 318 cop motor four barrel manifold, T.Q. or Q-Jet depending on year, and air cleaner. I've read conflicting reports that these motors still used a version of the"340" cam, if so it'd be a good pick for a flat tappet motor.
Stock electronic ignition, but with the '68-'69 advance springs; or just use the stock '68-'69 single point distributor (yes, really!)
For a trans, late 60's you could get a four speed with a teener, and the towing package got you an 8.75 rear with darn near any gear. If you gotta run an auto, an early '80s 998 with the low first gearset.
Body? Lightest one that qualifies would be the '68-'69 Valiant or Dart 2 door post.
Just a couple of thoughts for you and good luck!
  • The car I have. I would use my Duster, but I can have it weigh what the lightest LA 318 car weighed.
  • Car is a auto, so just for this project it will stay auto
  • What I CAN'T do, is swap parts within the parts. For example, i cannot pull 1.88 valves out of a 360 head (yes, 318's came with 360 heads) and install them in 302 heads. So no swapping even springs in distributors. But, I can use any distributor I want from a LA 318
 
Also, what would be the expectations for a car set up like this?? It would be low HP, not very good gears, stock converter, so what would be the realistic expectations?
 
My 63 Belvedere has a 1970 LA 318.Only mods were the intake,carb and a Comp Cam 454 lift.
I got all the cam specs 'round here somewhere . 904 B&M shift kit 2.76 gears. Oh yea, Headers and duals.
Sound like something you are talking about ? I built the car for the ziptie/duct tape drags way back in 2016 and health problems got in the way. Never made it to the track.
 
My 63 Belvedere has a 1970 LA 318.Only mods were the intake,carb and a Comp Cam 454 lift.
I got all the cam specs 'round here somewhere . 904 B&M shift kit 2.76 gears. Oh yea, Headers and duals.
Sound like something you are talking about ?
well, no 318 came with that cam. Or shift kit.. lol. And what intake and carb? Cast/TQ?
 
Well it's a Edelbrock Performer and has a 600 Edelbrock carb. I do plan on swapping a TQ soon.
So I guess I'm out...
Not out... this is just a build I was considering doing. Just seeing if this would have any interest if I were to do it. Pictures/videos/paragraphs take time.
 

And by all means the ET slip itself would be slow, very slow. But can it be "fast" for a LA318 ? It's not how fast you go, but how you go fast!
 
i'm only interested if there's drama, high level chicanery and some questionable hacky-ness going on.


just kiddin'!

hell yeah, dooo it!
 
i'm only interested if there's drama, high level chicanery and some questionable hacky-ness going on.


just kiddin'!

hell yeah, dooo it!
Just the mention of "318" brings drama. Don't know why, the most offensive word that can be used here besides.... (shall I say it??.... naw, i won't)
 
I would need some help with information as well. For example, I know 318 cars came with 3.23's. Did ANY car, I repeat "car", come with anything better from the factory - for a FACT ??
 
Do you happen to have one of the later 318 roller motors since you’re going out to 91? Or restricted to hydraulic flat?

Also, how far are you allowed to deck the block and mill the heads before it’s considered performance vs service (wink)? Limited to what comes in a Felpro box, or can you get the slightly thinner (028) Mr Gasket head gaskets? Hone cleanup only? Can treat it to a better hone than factory…or can you do a warranty motor at 020 over?

FWIW, my guess is 17-18 in the quarter…
 
Find the schematics on the Mexican version 318 - 270 horsepower now that's a horse of a different color
 
This is an excellent idea. Coming from a slant guy with a couple of 318's. Not everything is about max performance to the exclusion of all else.
 
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