You agree with fuel pump location.

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Jimmy2Times

Jimmy2Times

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Replacing the holley blue that was on the car it was old and crusty and I have a electrical surge going on that I'm working out. Anyways figured it couldn't hurt to get a fresh pump and regulator in it.

Anyway this is where it was, R/R fram rail idk how I feel about it. Its really kind of slick but my worry is down the road wider tire and burnouts. What your opinion on this location anyone every see similar spot have any feedback?And the slight kick to the pump? Mean car was fine for years but while I'm here what are your thoughts.

And yea little frame rail wrinkle their? Tighten with hand tools and wasn't death locked on their.

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Terrible location. That puts the pump above the tank. It needs to be well below the tank, so that it is basically gravity fed. Electric pumps are made to push, not pull. They don't pull very well and the more they have to the shorter their life span. Even if it is well ahead of the tank, I would put it on the frame rail in front of the rear axle C channel, where the frame rail is parallel with the ground.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Terrible location. That puts the pump above the tank. It needs to be well below the tank, so that it is basically gravity fed. Electric pumps are made to push, not pull. They don't pull very well and the more they have to the shorter their life span. Even if it is well ahead of the tank, I would put it on the frame rail in front of the rear axle C channel, where the frame rail is parallel with the ground.
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Wow literally in the paperwork that I never read that came with the pump. I knew vertical as possible but not gravity feed. Thanks guess I'll be moving up something new.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Terrible location. That puts the pump above the tank. It needs to be well below the tank, so that it is basically gravity fed. Electric pumps are made to push, not pull. They don't pull very well and the more they have to the shorter their life span. Even if it is well ahead of the tank, I would put it on the frame rail in front of the rear axle C channel, where the frame rail is parallel with the ground.
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Your recommending here. Opposite or same side as exhaust? Want to keep it away from heat. I may dump the exhaust early in the future.

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Yup. Right in there in front of and above the jack stand would be fine. Leave the exhaust right there. Just make a simple heat shield out some scrap sheet metal and it'll be fine. Might not hurt to run some insulation on the fuel line in that area. Won't be hard to solve.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yup. Right in there in front of and above the jack stand would be fine. Leave the exhaust right there. Just make a simple heat shield out some scrap sheet metal and it'll be fine. Might not hurt to run some insulation on the fuel line in that area. Won't be hard to solve.
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Awesome. Have to new sender as the fuel level stopped working. So from the sender to the pump and then the pump to tie in at the pinch weld fuel line looks like will be all new. Thanks a bunch dude.



Thanks man glad I didn't post pics all done, and done wrong that would have sucked.
 
you might consider on the other side of the frame rail away from the exhaust and in front of the leaf spring hanger nuts. The fuel line ends up there anyway, and you can make a cover in the area usually covered by a torque plate to protect from road debris.
 
Jimmy2Times said:
Awesome. Have to new sender as the fuel level stopped working. So from the sender to the pump and then the pump to tie in at the pinch weld fuel line looks like will be all new. Thanks a bunch dude.



Thanks man glad I didn't post pics all done, and done wrong that would have sucked.
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IF U HAVE TO DROP THE TANK TO REMOVE THE SENDER, WHY NOT CREATE A REAR FUEL EXIT, AND PUT THE PUMP BEHIND THE TANK WHETRE IT BELONGS ?
IT WILL TUCK IN ''SORT OF'' UP NEXT TO THE FRAME , JUST SLIGHTLY HIGHER THAN THE TANK.
MINE HAS BEEN THAT WAY FOR 10 YRS------------------DIS regard caps !
 
i can't stand those type of fuel pumps anymore. back in the day when they were the only game in town then fine but today with in tank pumps not sure why anyone would want a frame mounted pump.
 
Something that I didn't see mentioned but is Very important is a good, high flow fuel filter between the pump and tank. Also not mentioned is some type of automatic pump shutoff. Most are wired through the oil pressure switch.
 
Thank you for all the replies, I dont want to scrap what I do already have, so I want to try to come up with something using the parts I have. Although the bottom sump is sick and keep it in mind. And I agree automatic shut off, its wired to a switch currently. Rear lower seat out front seats coming out and carpet getting gutted while I get the wiring right also.

Seen some other mounts options digging around last night. Made a template for my buddy to make something up for me. Thinking this should work. Mounted with small holes between the rear shock bolts. Hang just below tank this will put it close and low. Just can't be too thin where it flimsy. Also gonna order inline filter that attach to the top if this bracket.



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abodyjoe said:
i can't stand those type of fuel pumps anymore. back in the day when they were the only game in town then fine but today with in tank pumps not sure why anyone would want a frame mounted pump.
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Who makes an in the tank fuel pump for a carb application? If I could find one, I’d use it.
 
mderoy340 said:
I just upgraded to electric return system and found this sump for the tank bottom. I installed without tank removal.
https://www.ohiodieselparts.com/pro...-diesel-or-gasoline-fuel-tanks-black-anodized

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^^^^^cool , I have one of those setting on the bench , been too lazy to install it , maybe this summer . I welded two octagon shaped 1/2'' pipe caps in the rear of my tank when it was new, just below the seam .I cut the end off them in my lathe, then after the welding ,I just took a big tapered punch and drove it thru the caps making holes in the tank the same size as the inside of the caps, (no metal bits) . Where I went wrong is not thinking about the things being too high , once the tank was mounted. I have fuel starvation when the level gets to about 1/3 tank of gas . the bottom deisel sump like urs will fix it . I got mine free, they didnt send all the parts , but I scrounged them up out of the garage .
 
yellow rose said:
Who makes an in the tank fuel pump for a carb application? If I could find one, I’d use it.
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I prefer to be able to get to the pump myself, you have to drop ur tank or cut a hole (access door) in tur trunk if u have a problem w/in tank pumps . I know of a few people that have had trouble w/ even the factory ones . Cant hear mine when the engine is running either -----------
 
abodyjoe said:
Any of them will work. Just put a regulator with return line on. Good To go. No Different then efi just needs less pressure.
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Ok...I looked at a few and the lowest line pressure I’ve found is 50 PSI. I’m not sure what regulator will work with 50 psi line pressure. I used to fight the regulators with 30 pounds of line pressure and a return line.
 
abodyjoe said:
i can't stand those type of fuel pumps anymore. back in the day when they were the only game in town then fine but today with in tank pumps not sure why anyone would want a frame mounted pump.
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I don't disagree, but the factories are still using frame mounted pumps in some applications.
 
mderoy340 said:
I just upgraded to electric return system and found this sump for the tank bottom. I installed without tank removal.
https://www.ohiodieselparts.com/pro...-diesel-or-gasoline-fuel-tanks-black-anodized

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1st thanks so much for sharing this info. I'm going to take your advice and pretty much copy your setup. Sorry for so many questions this is my first carbed car. I also didn't want to keep stealing that guys thread.

My last question is your regulator setup. I'm confused how the feed to the carbs loop back to regulator? This is the diagrams I am going off.

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Jimmy2Times said:
1st thanks so much for sharing this info. I'm going to take your advice and pretty much copy your setup. Sorry for so many questions this is my first carbed car. I also didn't want to keep stealing that guys thread.

My last question is your regulator setup. I'm confused how the feed to the carbs loop back to regulator? This is the diagrams I am going off.

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Everything goes through the return regulator first. Then it’s just a flow loop until the floats drop and then most of the fuel goes to the carb rather than back to the tank.
 
Jimmy2Times said:
1st thanks so much for sharing this info. I'm going to take your advice and pretty much copy your setup. Sorry for so many questions this is my first carbed car. I also didn't want to keep stealing that guys thread.

My last question is your regulator setup. I'm confused how the feed to the carbs loop back to regulator? This is the diagrams I am going off.

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I installed regulator after carb fuel log. (see figure 3) Supply line/fuel bowls/180turn/regulator in/regulator return. You can't see the return line in my pic, it is on the bottom of the regulator.
https://documents.holley.com/199r11227.pdf
 
mderoy340 said:
I installed regulator after carb fuel log. (see figure 3) Supply line/fuel bowls/180turn/regulator in/regulator return. You can't see the return line in my pic, it is on the bottom of the regulator.
https://documents.holley.com/199r11227.pdf
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Awesome, can't thank you enough you all have been super helpful. Try to update this thread when I make progress.
 
abodyjoe said:
Any of them will work. Just put a regulator with return line on. Good To go. No Different then efi just needs less pressure.
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i dont think thats necessarily true

we just had a conversation on here about that, sounded like the manufacturer suggested two regulators to drop it down to 5-6 PSI


EFI in-tank fuel pump to carb?
 
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