Your best mod? Worst mod?

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clhyer

clhyer

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Good morning,
I've gotten started on a mild restify for my '72 Duster. I purchased just the body, pretty much stripped. As a result, originality is not important. My goal is to end up with a nice, reliable, comfortable, fun to drive, head turning, weekend driver that gets "relatively" decent gas mileage. I expect I will be doing body work most all winter so I have plenty of time to consider different modifications.

My question this morning, is what was your "Best" mod; especially if it fits the above parameters.

What I have planned so far, and have already put in motion by the purchase of two parts cars:
318 4bbl
998/998 auto
8 1/4 sure-grip with 2.90 gears
disc brake package and LBP wheels
stereo
Elec. ignition
electric amp gauge changeover
aftermarket a/c

Other mods I am seriously considering at this time:
Sunroof
power brakes

What are some other upgrades I might or should consider? Hell, at this point, money is no object! After all, I'm not spending it (yet)... What about HID lights, better seats or cruise control? What's been your best mod? What's been your worst?

Thanks,
C
 
While your at it move your springs inboard then you can run a wider tire on the back.
I did that with my Scamp but i also mini-tubbed and made a custom trunk floor for it to.
 
oh my, where to start. Mine is a 67 notchback cude so some will not apply.
I can't prove the 3rd brake lamp on the package shelf is worth its weight in gold but she aint been rear ended yet.
I replaced the truck seal with the hollow tube on a U shaped channel type and the high pressure car wash wont put water in my trunk.
Upgraded my charging system to the square back alt and solid state reg.
so I have more power available to send to the better headlights and such.
What was once the 'wash feature of my wiper switch is now a 'one touch equals one sweep' intermitent wiper.
Power steering sure is nice. A smaller dia. steering wheel came later and required shortening the signal wand also.
Cruise control can be a blessing on looooong road trips but we dont drive them that much any more so I took that back out. Was a pain to install too.
I have a hot lighter well in the console that is handy for cell phone charger and such. I made a little door to cover that well when not in use. That ashtray is a coin stash. Dont want a coin in the lighter well although there is a inline fuse (10 amp) added under the ashtray.
Front lisense plate lamp is cute. :)
My long cable manual remote mirror for right door project is finished except for install. Was nice feature in 87 Fury so I'm sure it'll be same for the 67.
Swapping locations of heat controls and sterio isn't complete yet but well under way.
Shortened and modified the automatic shifter to accept a later model knob with button facing the dash (BMW knob in use).
These things were done with 2nd parts bought off ebay. The majority of it can be returned to OEM if desired.
Finally my number one best mod so far... The DeMonIVR solid state instrument voltage regulator.
Like grandbabies, I wish I could have done that first. LOL
 
First, I'd advise not to put in the sunroof. It'll kill resale. My best install on my duster is my Mallory 685 ignition box. In addition to the multispark function, it has a settable rev limiter, start retard, switchable retard (which I use to pull timing out when it gets sprayed, when the spray is energized the ignition box automatically pulls the timing back), and a low speed revlimiter for starting line. Quite a lot of usable stuff in 1 small package.
 
My best mileage mod was a Jacobs ignition. A better unit than a MSD for sure.
Also, the whole package of the engine was also mileage oriented. Small 4 bbl. (Carter 625) MoPar distributor, mandrel bent dual exhast, viscous fan, '73, 340 air cleaner. w/K&N filter. The air cleaner has a trap door in it's base that opens when vacuum drops below 15 - 13 Hg's. (I think it was.) Cam was stock. No headers.

This was on a 360 (1979) in a Dodge Magnum of the same year that weighed in over 3700 lbs. It had a 2.76 ratio and 26 inch tires. It got 20 mpg's. Hwy.
Speaking of which, you may want to look into a overdrive 500 series tranny.
This will allow a higher gear ratio for get up and go while retaining a Hwy. freindly overdrive ratio.
(Overdrive ratio multiplied by rear gear ratio equals new overdriven ratio.
Example; .69 X 4.10 = 2.829, rounded to 2.83
Things that make you go hummmmmmm. )

Allways wanted to find an aftermarket rear window electric defrost. One that doesn't look like hand painted (Thick) stripes on the window.

Worst mod isn't so much as a poor job or return on power from the part, but a huge pain in the rear are headers. I hate the job on A bodies. Zero room. Low ground clearance. I think tti's are the only exception to the rule at a cost.
 
If I were bound and determined to have rear defrost I could although not electric grid.
If they can put rear heat and a/c in minivans I can add a couple small water tubes from the heater core back to the trunk. There is an unused channel down the right floor just like te one with wiring harness in it on the left side.
A small heat exchanger (heater core) is a power steering fluid cooler ?
I'd probably use the same vents in the package shelf as the OEM front defrost vents. All thats left is a fan man :)
 
My best mod I`ve made to my Barracuda(without a doubt) would be the Tremec 5 spd. transmission that replaced the factory A-833. The car still has the acceleration but can also cruise the interstate, and I picked up some more mpg(for what that`s worth, gone from 6-8 lol).
 
LOL @ Longgone. IF I remember correctly, your engine is a bit "BEEFED UP." (Sooo saez your avatar.)
If you got 2 more MPG's out of it, that aint to bad. Getting mileage isn't so easy sometimes.

To much work Redfish. If it aint a easy thing, I'll skip it. Adding wires, a on/off switch and a realy isn't to bad. I could do that easy enuff.
 
If money is no object,build something other then a 318...
 
Add A/C from Vintage Air, Classic Auto Air or Hot Rod Air for some sweet summer comfort. Get the electronic type controls so you don't have to mess with vaccum hoses or cables. Their units are much smaller than OEM & so take up a lot less space under your dash.
 
The single best modification that I have made to the Barracuda is to swap the manual steering for power steering.

Manual steering is plain and simple a pain in the butt when it comes to low speed maneuvering in parking lots and such. But even more important is the improvement in response on the road. The car has gone from feeling like I am steering the Titanic to a quick and precise handler.

I cranked in as much caster as I could to improve the steering feel but if i was to do it over I would seriously one of the reworked power steering boxes from Firm Feel or Steer and Gear.
 
This is giving me some great info, folks! Although I didn't mention power steering in my list of mods, the car originally had it. I plan to swap the ps gearbox for the "quick ratio firm feel" system in the cop car.

I do want to use an aftermarket a/c kit. I wasn't aware of the differences in the controls, however. This is exactly the type of info I hoping to glean from this thread.

Money is no object, said a little tongue in cheek. Since I am only planning at this stage, I can "think" about anything. I already have the 318, and, money is definately a consideration. That said, I would love to go with the Tremec tranny, but...

The Jacobs vs MSD ignition. This is a street only car, no racing. Is there a benefit to those systems for street only?

The sunroof is only for my enjoyment. Resale is not being considered. After one restore, it is quite clear that I would never get all my money back out, especially if I valued my time at all! Yes, there would be "for instances" that I could think of that would make me part with the car, but I am not planning for that end result. Only planning for "my car, my way" so to speak.

Redfish, you gave me so much good info I will have to contact you directly for more info about some of it. The trunk seal was the first time I've heard about that issue. Thanks!

Evil Scamp, Since I am not racing... That said, the M body rear end is a couple inches wider and should give an overall improvement in appearance.

Keep those suggestions coming folks! Even the smallest thing might get overlooked if I don't think about it beforehand.
C
 
No prob. You wont be the first to ask directly for details. Just remember I been doing this since early 80s so there are things done that I've forgotten.
I love power steering, especially in a Mopar. I steer with a pinky finger.
I hate rack and pinion steering. Every tiny move of the wheel moves the tires. I enjoy driving a little more relaxed. Fast ratio is more like rack and pinion when the gearbox is brand new.
I cant knock Firm Feel cause I haven't bought one of their units and never will. They can't make me believe theirs are any better than a new stock unit.
Those that pulled a manual steering gear, or 30 year old p/s gear, and installed a Firm Feel unit shouldn't praise them either since they have no reference for compairison. They do though and I can knock them LOL
 
I like the MSD in my Barracuda. It's a mild 273 4 barrel and it made an improvement. Others say that the original system wasn't working up to par and that's why I saw an improvement. I don't care. I love it.
 
I'm all about beefin' stuff up, too. In order of maximum effect:

1) Subframe connectors - felt like a new car after that.
2) Rear suspension (Caltracs/SS Springs/8.75) - Rear is stable and solid. Car seems to beg for punishment.
3) New sway bars (F&R) - Rear suspension punishment entails few surprises.
3) Steer 'n Gear Steering Box. - No substitute for good steering.

No bad mods, yet.
 
I say build it the way you want it. On my 66 Dart i have done a few things that I like so far. Such as Hood scoop, wing, flip gas cap, 318 4 speed, (was /6 auto) bucket seats. Electronic ignition,
 
The Jacobs vs MSD ignition. This is a street only car, no racing. Is there a benefit to those systems for street only?
Click to expand...

The MSD and Jacobs will multi spark up to approx. 3,000 rpm's. This is where most "Drivers" roam in the rpm range and lower. This is a very good bennifit to burning up all the gas in the cylinder. The return is more power and mileage. Reduced emmisions would also happen.

On my MSD, I gained nearly 2-1/2 mpgs on the Hwy. on a 360. My personal luck with MSD is beyond words of horror. While others have purchased 1 box and it has lasted them many many years, it was just the reverse for me. MAny many boxs in one year.

Being very upset at this, I sprung for a Jacobs system While expensive next tot he MSD, it is slightly different in that it is a micro processor box doing the same job with added bennifits and add on's if you wish.

It's best to read up on it.

I had the pro street box, a bit to strong for a daily driver, but thats what I had it on. A '94 Hyundia Excell, 4 banger, 5 speed manual. It went from 36+ to a solid 40 mpgs on that lil'bugger.

I was better off with a mileage master.

Part of the Mr.Gasket group (.com it) They picked up Jacobs some years back. Heres the link;
http://www.jacobselectronics.com/

Or this to a descriptive page of Jacobs units; http://www.jacobselectronics.com/Pr...nID=5409&majID=540&selection=2&minselection=2
 
Sunroofs and T-tops became popular only because Convertibles were oulawed from 73 untill 80. We can thank Chrysler for their lobby efforts that got them back in production. I've never seen any of either that didn't leak eventually. You wouldn't believe the problems we had a Ford dealership with T-tops and sun roofs. Why in the world they contiuned to produce those after convertibles had been re instated is beyond me. They did finally stop the T-top usage in the Fox body Mustang. Couldn't stop the leaking.
I know... I'm over opinionated but I simply can't find the "enjoyment" of a sunroof or a wet butt. Cutting a hole in a roof is like cutting a drain hole in the floor of a boat to me. Different strokes for different folks no doubt.
I forgot to mention the dimmer jumper on the headlight switch that provides bright as possible dash lights at all times in my earlier post.
 
Y'all keep posting those mods!!! This is great info.
Redfish, you lost me on the jumper wire. I'll ask more about it from you directly. As to the sunroof, I'm banking on better gasket materials being used today... As for the PS unit, it's the Chrysler box. Fast Ratio Firm Feel is what is listed on the spec sheet that the dealer pulled for me. It is 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. At this point, though, it is neither "fast ratio" (by todays standards); nor is it particularly "firm feel". But, I only have my Dodge Dakota ('99) to compare it with.
Rumblefish360 & pyp1000, thanks for the links. I will be reading up on that stuff. I've never considered the MSD or Jacobs systems before, so I really don't know anything about them.
Ace, to what does a subframe connector fasten to? I'll have to do some looking up that stuff too.

I can't say enough how great it is to learn these things. I know that I will be incorporating some, if not a lot, of these suggestions.
C
 
RedFish said:
Sunroofs and T-tops became popular only because Convertibles were oulawed from 73 untill 80. We can thank Chrysler for their lobby efforts that got them back in production. I've never seen any of either that didn't leak eventually. You wouldn't believe the problems we had a Ford dealership with T-tops and sun roofs. Why in the world they contiuned to produce those after convertibles had been re instated is beyond me. They did finally stop the T-top usage in the Fox body Mustang. Couldn't stop the leaking.
I know... I'm over opinionated but I simply can't find the "enjoyment" of a sunroof or a wet butt. Cutting a hole in a roof is like cutting a drain hole in the floor of a boat to me. Different strokes for different folks no doubt.
I forgot to mention the dimmer jumper on the headlight switch that provides bright as possible dash lights at all times in my earlier post.
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree with THAT statement any more !!! Now it's hard to get some cars without one .. I ordered a new Charger SRT8 in January of '06 with NO sunroof, but my local dealer couldn't seem to have it built by April, so I bought a different one off the showroom floor, and it has a sunroof.. I bet in all that time I've opened it 3 or 4 times, and have to close it cause it drives me nuts ... I wish I waited for the non-roof model, since I'm sure they only built a handful....

As far as mods, I kinda like the reverse pattern manual shift auto valve body, and by FAR the worst was letting the poor car basically sit un-used for the better part of 25 years... It's nice to be breathing new life into her...

Good luck with your project, sounds like you're gonna have fun with it ...
 
RedFish said:
I cant knock Firm Feel cause I haven't bought one of their units and never will. They can't make me believe theirs are any better than a new stock unit.
Those that pulled a manual steering gear, or 30 year old p/s gear, and installed a Firm Feel unit shouldn't praise them either since they have no reference for compairison. They do though and I can knock them LOL
Click to expand...

Firm Feel rebuilds stock steering boxes with modified valving to reduce the over boosted feel of the original steering box. There is no change in ratio, it remains 16:1.

The difference between Stage 1, 2 and 3 boxes is the amount effort is required on your part to move the wheel. You can certainly feel that difference whether the box you removed is one day old or 30 years old. So there is no reason to not believe folks that have installed one.

I installed a rebuilt stock p/s box and had the local front end shop add in more caster to add more feel which makes it very good but less boost in the box would be nice.
 
Don't know if any of you recall the Firm Feel nightmare I had, but anyway that Firm Feel StageIII box I had started leaking again after about 6 months, so I just pulled it and sent Steer 'n Gear another core I had. Got that one built to the Steer 'n Gear XX Firm level, and it is even firmer than the Firm Feel StageIII. At least comparing the examples I can speak of. I'd go with Steer 'n Gear if I was looking for another upgraded Mopar PS box.

The firm turning action of the upgraded power box is a definite improvement over the stock nothingness, totally vague power steering.
 
I have not yet started on my Duster but below are some things I have been thinking about.

I remember reading about someone using a mid 80's mopar electric trunk release on an early "A" body. They said it was a direct bolt in. This might be a nice mod.

How about a 100 Amp alternator and some aftermarket headlights? Dark tint to keep it cool in the summer.

To me, sway bars, disc brakes, power steering and aftermarket AC would be the biggest and best mods. An OD trannie would be nice too but can you build them strong and get Manual Valve Bodies for them?

I plan to do ALOT of sound proofing to the interior of mine. I don't care what it weighs, I want it quiet in the cabin.

I already have buckets but I plan to add a console and somehow use a B&M shifter in it.

Thanks for starting this post, I am sure I will get alot of ideas for mine also.
 
wheels29.jpg


I've been real pleased with my hood, scoop, paint and stripe scheme, and the mini tubbs for big rubber clearance.

My worst mod so far was cutting the floor for a 4 speed hump.
I hated to do it to the car, but It got better once I laid the hump over the hole, and I pictured what the finished result would look like.
 
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