Zac_F71's 71 Demon

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Thanks! Another small update! I splurged and bought 2 15x8 Weld Prostar wheels for the rear! Just need to save up for an Unlimited bolt on fiberglass 6pak hood! Then the car will be done!

Been cleaning and painting a few pieces of the interior still and should be done by the end of the dyno/4 day weekend I think!

Plan is set for the dyno as well which is a week away! Getting very excited for that since it's the first time I'm doing the dyno thing! Til next week!
 
Well it seems like it's been a few months, but probably only a couple weeks LOL. my 383 build is done, and we dyno'd it yesterday. Sadly I didn't take any of the print outs, but do remember some numbers...

Did 8 pulls or so started with 69/75 jetting and 35* total, and ended up with 74/80 and 41* total and a 1/2" 4 hole spacer -all with a 6.5 power valve. Rev'd to 6,100rpm on a few of the pulls, tried 6,200 and it didn't like it. It will be a ton of fun on the street, and we don't plan ot rev it much past 5,500rpm even though it makes power to 5,800/5,900rpm, tried a few different carb spacers as well - 1" 4 hole, 1" open, and a 1/2" 4 hole. Funny part is it made good power with no spacer. It seemed to like the added timing - we tried 42* or 43*, and lost 10hp or so. So we backed it down to 41* and power came back.

Took a couple hours to get the thing running if I'm honest haha we ran into spark delivery problems, tore the distributor apart, put a new pick up in, and tried a new cap and rotor, and then it finally came to life. Found the rear main seal holder leaking a bit of oil, so we fixed that after unbolting it from the dyno..

My CPPA 2" under chassis headers didn't end up fitting the dyno bell housing (Lakewood scatter shield), so we used the dyno's 2" fenderwell headers.. here is the combo -

71 HP 383 0 decked
Stock steel crank
Stock rods with ARP bolts
KB400 5cc dome hyper pistons (.030")
Balanced rotating assembly
?Mahle? rings gapped for nitrous (doesn't have it - didn't try it on the dyno)
Trickflow timing chain (Summit Racing brand)
Comp Cams hyd 231* @.050" (280* adv) int/ex .480" 110* LSA - grind number CRB 280H-10 - degree'd in at 110*
Smith Brothers custom length pushrods
Crane Cams Gold 1.6 roller rockers *(.512" valve lift)
440 source stealth heads, milled enough to be flat (few thousandths), and professionally ported by a local guy, Comp Cams SS valves, springs, locks, and retainers
Unported Edelbrock Performer RPM that was angle milled to match the block/heads
Demon 750 speed demon carb (no choke)- rebuilt mostly stock, added rear jet extensions, and .120" needle and seats

The results? 460hp 450ft/lbs both around 5,500rpm

I will edit this and add the video's today - we have about 10 or so to go through, plus a bunch of pics
 
Thanks! A ton of fun for sure is to be had! I have to make a "final" parts order here as the original oil dip stick broke, a few gaskets, and more oil/filters to have a couple oil changes worth.. SO My goal to drive the car this weekend if sadly over, but by the time I get the parts it should be close!

I bit the bullet and bought a FBO ignition box/coil as well..
 
You might call over. The computer will store that stuff unless they delete. Maybe they could mail it or email a copy to you.
 
Well lots happened over the weekend!

Got he motor home semi safe - somehow th oil filter got dented but it should be ok for the first drive

I ended up having to order a new dipstick cause the original broke off in the block - used a thread tap to get the piece out of the block, and ended up dropping it in the pan. :(

SO took the pan off and got the tap out, put a few pieces on the motor, and dropped it in the car. Before doing that I noticed oil on the floor, sure enough look under the valve covers, and the $42 Moroso rubber gaskets are leaking. Luckily I had a brand new pair of Felpro black rubber/cork gaskets on the stock covers..

Had to take the rad out, which meant cutting wires I didn't want to cut but oh well.. that will be fixed today.. Probably plan to start it and possibly drive it later this week, as the chassis is pretty much ready to go - need to torque the front lca nut, and the leaf spring eye bolt/shackles. Then off to work for an alignment.

Got some of the interior done - going to finish what I can on the motor today, get the metal parts painted Gloss Black, and possibly installed later tonight
PICS! (the few I took LOL)

Got the 2 pieces of under dash trim painted and installed (I didn't know there were 2 different dash pieces, as only the 2 top screw holes line up - I may bite the bullet and drill the dash for the other 2 not sure yet) - also wired the new tach in!


3 stores and 45 minutes later I have 2 oil pan gaskets!


Cleaned windage tray!


Leaking after 1 hours dyno time!


It's in!
 
Well got it fired long enough to find the primary fuel bowl leaking from the inlet (stripped threads) SO ordered a new bowl, messed up and ordered a secondary bowl.. so now overnighting a primary bowl.. and goingto finish the interior, and get the car ready to drive.. torque the suspension and whatnot
 
IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!! started getting dark so called it a night, BUT no over heating! temp and fuel gauges work when they want to which sucks but oh well.. going to torque all of the suspension, raise up the front a little, and now that's cool give everything a once over, and take it for a drive after doing a little carb tuning!

Had to add 2qts of ATF LOL as well!
 
Hopefully the rain lets up enough so you can get some hole shot testing in.
 
Well been messing with it a little here and there.. it doesn't want to idle sadly so I'm not sure if it'll make it..
 
Well got a break in the rain a couple days ago.. pretty much figured out why it won't idle I think (mixture of the carb, and small vacuum leaks at the intake gaskets)

Got the car to idle, checked the total timing and was ok (36* @ 2,750rpm or so). Got it to idle at 950-1,000rpm - sounds almost stock with the exhaust leaks haha

Got it out for a drive! Sadly half way through the drive - during the video I shot, the shifter cable came loose, and ended up getting stuck in 1st gear. It was fun though!

Also sadly melted the speedo cable so none of the gauges work. Had to hold a infrared temp gun out the window to make sure it didn't get hot - which it didn't!

Had to try to do a burn out! Well it did one! I didn't do it long though with everything being new and stuck in first gear didn't want to break anything! at least a 40ft mark in front of the house!

Sadly it was over right after the burn out.. parked it in the garage, and started seeing smoke.. well look under the car.. sure enough the rear main seal is pissing oil.. got a new rear main seal kit, 2 oil pan gaskets, and a pair of Mr Gasket intake gaskets.. and sadly the motor has to come out.. but not for long..

Crappy video of the drive!


The burn out mark!
 
Well not much has happened - ordered a coolant temp gauge, and ordered a fiberglass hood from Unlimited Fiberglass (440 6 pack scoop) going to pull the motor tomorrow after work and get the rear main seals reaplaced, and put it back in (cross my fingers it don't leak anymore)
 
If you want to stop the oil leaks you're going to need to install a pcv valve in the valve cover, otherwise the crankcase pressure builds up and pushes the seals/ gaskets out. Looking at our pictures I didn't see 1. Breathers aren't enough. You gotta have a way to pull the gasses out of the crankcase.
 
Well not much has happened - ordered a coolant temp gauge, and ordered a fiberglass hood from Unlimited Fiberglass (440 6 pack scoop) going to pull the motor tomorrow after work and get the rear main seals reaplaced, and put it back in (cross my fingers it don't leak anymore)

Curious on the quality, panel alignment, and overall fitment of the hood when you get it.
 
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