Zac_F71's 71 Demon

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A lot of people have trouble with the coupler it seems. I have yet to tackle mine but it definitely needs a rebuild. From what I've read the pin only goes in and comes out on one side. Let me know how you like the lower control arms, I've been thinking about picking those up myself. Very cool build! :thumbup:
 
DNasty777 said:
A lot of people have trouble with the coupler it seems. I have yet to tackle mine but it definitely needs a rebuild. From what I've read the pin only goes in and comes out on one side. Let me know how you like the lower control arms, I've been thinking about picking those up myself. Very cool build! :thumbup:
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I love the whole setup from QA1 - obviously don't have it installed yet but it's very nice for sure - worth the money? time will tell when the big block goes in haha

But ya I've tried pounding on it on both sides to free it up and it juts won't budge in either direction - sad as my rougher shape 68 Charger I had - that pin came right out lol - I guess it's the pit falls of a original unmolested car - sad part is the coupler doesn't need a rebuild it's still tight - but I need to new pin that the rebuild kit comes with... plus after the car gets driven and then finally torn down for a full resto - it will be 1 less thing I have to do...
 
Got some work done tonight! pulled the whole front suspension out - got the steering column pin out with a air hammer LOL luckily my Mancini Racing order is on the way but was shipped today so won't have the parts til next weekend basically.

Got plenty to do in the mean time - cleaning!

Also picked up some 70 Duster bucket seats yesterday - paid a little to much for them but they're nice driver seats!







 
Welp! more progress - it's going back together! LOL very slowly spent 3-4 hours cleaning the engine bay - got the K member pretty well centered and torqued (68 manual says 150ft/lb minimum - I did 160ft/lb to be safe)

Doing a ton of mock up on the front right side (pics) - there is extra metal in the UCA area that the QA1 arm hits and can't go through it's full range of motion - I moved the adjustment bolts every which way - there is no getting around cutting it

Also put the shock in place and found out it hits the LCA bump stop on the frame rail on full extension SO I either have to pound it in or cut a relief so the shock clears on full extension

PICS!!

K members side by side!


All cleaned up! it's pretty faint BUT there is an assembly line marking on the firewall "3" - not sure what it's for or means but it's cool to find stuff like that still on the car!














 
DNasty777 said:
SHWING! Very nice!
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I know! I just got back from cleaning (DIY pressure washer car wash LOL) all the steering stuff, steering box, original K member, the 8 3/4 housing, MP pinion snuber, torsion bars (still have inspection marks on them!), and the torsion bar tension bolts

Also got a thread chasing kit - to chase the threads in the torsion bar tension bolts as well as a few other threads here

Will post up pics here - gonna start priming and painting the steering stuff..
 
Good news! Right Stuff called last week and said new replacement spindles will be ready to ship in 30 or so days! SO I'm gung ho on getting to work on this thing once again!

Right Stuff Detailing has a recall out on certain disc brake spindles and mine is one of them..

I bought MANY new parts after my last post but it's so cold out I couldn't work in my garage so I stopped - now to pretty much parts hoard til springs or I find a killer deal on a heater

bought around November-

New Black headliner
Headliner insulation
2 more front leaf eye bolts
Firewall and under dash gasket and resto kits
New electronic ignition wiring harness
probably more I can't remember LOL

Just today got new front tires - Nankang 165/80-15 tires - for $104 shipped
 
Well deal with my friend fell through as he had 15x4"'s and I really want 3.5" wide- found a pair of 15x3.5" Prostars on eBay brand new for $335 shipped and pounced on them.. ($73 cheaper than Summit's price)
 
Scored a bunch of parts tonight! $900 worth for $340 -

Milodon 7qt oil pan w/ pickup
Heddman B body long tube headers
Mopar Performance black valve covers
Edelbrock Torker 383 intake
 
Well it was 70* today so I got out in the garage, did a spring clean, and got to work stripping the rest of the 383 down - even got the oil galley plugs out an frost plugs loose as well -





Found a nick in one of the pistons LOL
 
Well got the motor build under way - ordered ARP main studs, cam bearings, frost plug kit, and a MP bronze oil pump shaft bushing.

In addition I ordered - Proforged billet tie rod sleeves, and ARP bolts/nuts for the shocks up front (to connect to the control arms), and new shock bushings for the front (one is torn)
 
Got my Summit order and got to work on the engine tonight - found one of the No.5 main studs is to long, even switched it with another, still to long. So my Machinist is going to probably figure it out if I can't later in the weekend..

Getting started, pulled the 6 main frost plugs.. then on to the studs..






 
Thanks man! I'm stuck in both ventures at this point, the motor has that one weird stud on the No.5 main cap and the car is STILL waiting for the Right Stuff Detailing disc brake spindles - which I got a call from them - they are sending me a return label for my spindles to send them back and then they are sending me a new pair, should be 3 weeks MAX (crossing my fingers) that I have them here so I can start final assembly of the front end..

As for the studs I'm going to pull them all out tomorrow, find and use the shortest ones in the No.5 main cap, and if that don't work - I'll be calling ARP this week and custom ordering a 1/4" shorter stud, along with 8740 K member bolts for the QA1 K (pretty sure it included grade5 bolts which I don't like)
 
Thanks man! I thought it would go a little faster but the stud issue, and waiting on Right Stuff for the spindles is getting old.. :/
 
Hey zac,did you add the main studs before or after the machine work was done on the block?
With the higher ARP clamping force I had to line hone the block when using there main cap studs. I use them on all my engine builds and have always had to line hone.
Just thought I would ask if you had to do the same.
 
Average Joe said:
Hey zac,did you add the main studs before or after the machine work was done on the block?
With the higher ARP clamping force I had to line hone the block when using there main cap studs. I use them on all my engine builds and have always had to line hone.
Just thought I would ask if you had to do the same.
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All this work is BEFORE machine work, I am planning boost and not cutting corners for that reason, as I can't afford another engine..
 
Average Joe said:
Nice!! What kind of boost?
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Turbo around 15psi will be added in 2016 or so

I'm just building the short block for boost and run it NA for a summer as the car hasn't been on the road for 8 years or so and will have a new front/rear end

I have a few people right now trying to convince me to swap a 5.7 hemi in it instead of the big block, so I'm thinking on it for the day.. BUT I may just go with my original plan and get the chassis completely done and ready for a drivetrain (engine/trans) instead of go further on a certain motor..
 
Sweet! I was going to do a big block in my barracuda but decided to build a 5.7 for it.
Either way it will be a sweet ride.
 
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