SB Pro Comp Aluminum Heads...For Sale on Ebay..

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I also laugh at people who ***** about these aluminum heads having rough casting..lol...thats WAY smooth compared to a lot of iron i see.

And remember....intake is good rough, the exhaust can be made a mirror finish in seconds with a sand paper cartridge.
Why does everyone always have to complain...lol
 
MRL Performance said:
The hughes rockers are better than the HS IMO. They only come in the 5/16 bolts so they do not bolt onto a Eddy RPM head, but we have ways around that!
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could you post more about a work around on the eddy magnum heads with hughes rockers....I have a set of eddy magnums and work be interested in shaft rockers...thanks
 
fishy68 said:
You don't have to use studs to mount the rockers on EQ heads. I used Harland Sharp pedestal mounts. They also tie each rocker arm together so they won't rotate. Is it better than a shaft mount. I highly doubt it, but it's a lot stronger than studs.
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Why does Harland sharp use such a steamroller of a wheel on the tip, combined with such a spindly shaft? Whoever makes the Hughes rockers has a much better design IMO. J.Rob
 
Drum pounding? Not at all, it was just funny about the complaining, Gees.

Heli coils are not a impossible feat, but you know as well as i do that it invites the AVERAGE guy to screw something up.

I just think its bad design and bad practice to cheap out on them in a head made of aluminum to keep cost down. They are not that much cheaper than RPM heads and more than likley they will still need the same attention as the RPM heads need OOTB, or more. I dont know I have never had a set in the shop.
 
I kind of agree with Mike. IF you have never heli coiled a hole or only done a few with marginal skills/results, pay the piper. The price of screw up increase's with each fouled up hole.
 
Pointing out complainers is not the same as being a complainer.
i shouldnt have to explain that, but here i am anyways..
IMO Some of the issues pointed out by others are not worth passing up these heads.

IMO It would be nice to see some assembled aluminum heads priced at or below the 1000 dollar mark like some of the lower cost big block alternatives.

Its all good, but dont confuse or downplay a good point...that being too many complaints about the lil chit.
 
To get a set of heads below or at $1000

Valves, decent ones $120 a set
Seals $30
Spring kit, locks, retainers $225
Spring cups $20
Size guides $40
Valve job $175

Thats $610 right there. Assuming you do NOTHING else to the heads, like mill surface, install any heli coils, cut spring seat for installed height. Your castings would have to be less than $200 each, no way thats ever going to happen.

The ebayer said $800 for a set of bare castings. So you could have a set of new aluminum heads for $1410, or pay what they want, a little less than $1200 for the cheapest junk you can put into a head, like Indy Cylinder Heads does.

Sometimes its not worth it to save a few bucks. Im with the rest of ya, buy them bare and put Good stuff in them. The valves I have priced on here would be the bare minimum. A really good set will go for 2x that much.
 
It's funny how stock valves hold up under .600 lift and 150 seat psi's....and yet somehow a stainless valve wont, thats hilarious.

Engine pro, 120-140 a set of 16, Ive run them numerous builds without an issue.

I dont think the average guy running around with a .550-.575 lift cam and 10.1 needs 220 dollar a set valves or 365 dollar springs.

Im all about doing it right, but were not all running nascar or setting world records.
Its like the cheap rocker vs expensive rocker deal, i know plenty of guys including myself who've had no issues with the lower cost rockers....you have to know what ur doing and do the proper setting up. Im not talking about cutting corners, jsut saying overkill for the sake of making urself believe u have the best or that nothing can go wrong 'when it still can' is not the way to think.
 
i wouldn take those if they where free and the last option on new heads.
 
I'm use to running junk...... "Shrugging shoulders"... And that because that most of what has been put out there to buy... It's only really gotten better in the last 10 or 15 years. and still look at the way it is for Ma Mopars Boy's..... Sheeeesh
 
MoparAnglia said:
Don't just sit on the fence. Say what you really think!!!
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lowerprice compared to what is already out there and probably made by people who dont know **** about the product they make+"PRO" anywhere in the name usualy means that the product isnt even worth scrapmoney.
 
Mad Dart said:
I forgot about those Tracy. I think Hughes makes them also. So that set up has 4 separate shafts instead of 1. I guess you would not need to use guide plates when using them?
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Sorry it took so long to answer Louis. Just couldn't find time before I had to go in for surgery. Yes they have 4 separate shafts per side just like the Hughes rockers so no need for guide plates. I haven't seen Hughes rockers but everyone including top engine builders brag about them so apparently their real good.

The rest of my post is not directed to you Louis. It is to those that commented on the Harland Sharp design.

My post mentioning the HS arms was to merely note that there was an option to using studs to mount the rockers on EQ (magnum style) heads and the pics I posted were to try to show that mounting design for those who haven't seen it, not to say that Harland Sharp's are the only rocker to use and/or the best. I used HS arms because of a few reasons

1. their plenty good for my mild combination that only gets raced 1 or 2 times per year max. With the small cam I used (240 @ .050" and .519 lift solid) and the moderate springs (130 seat, 310 open) I can't imagine having problems with them.

2. their lifetime warranty which nobody else offers.

3. the price was unbeatable at $291 to the door for the complete setup. If they would have been inferior to what I needed it wouldn't have been a good deal, but they aren't, therefore I used them with no regrets.

As a side note, the geometry was spot on.
 
fishy the thing about shaftmount vs studmounted rockers is not that the studstyle cant take springloads its the loss of motion at the valve that is the thing.

im having a friend i always help out at the track,not that he needs help all that much he is a very good at working on cars im just an extra set of hands to get stuff done quicker,anyway he runs a chevy nothing wrong with that but the first time we installed a girdle on his studmounted rockers and while we where checking lash we noticed that there is a huge diference the studs move around alot even when just rolling the engine over while setting lash i dont even want to think about how that stuff moves around at 6000+rpm oh and this is with a mild solid streetroller. 242/248at 0.050" .570/.576


not a bash or anything just giving some food for thought you want a rocksteady valvetrain,lots of power to be made by just having a stable valvetrain.
studmount works and isnt a problem at all it will even take some pretty good springpreasures and still be reliable,just not as stable.
 
I have set of very nicely ported eddy magnum heads, I keep hoping someone would make a shaft rocker setup for them...apparently the hughes magnum rockers dont fit according to hughes web site.
 
MRL Performance said:
You can use them on the Eddy heads, you need some of these!

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Threaded-Insert-5WY97

But once you put them in, they are never coming out. I know I know, Im a Guinness LOL
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you are saying the inserts will never come out?....if it allows the hughes magnum shaft rockers to work...I dont care if they never come out....

BTW...I bought a set of eddy heads from you a couple of years ago that you were selling for someone else..they were CNC from Hughes...slightly used..they are on our 71 Dart that is in my signature..

Thank YOU...
 
They will NEVER come out. They have 4 pins that lock them in place.

Ya know, we are a Hughes dealer................ LOL
 
1Fast340 said:
fishy the thing about shaftmount vs studmounted rockers is not that the studstyle cant take springloads its the loss of motion at the valve that is the thing.

im having a friend i always help out at the track,not that he needs help all that much he is a very good at working on cars im just an extra set of hands to get stuff done quicker,anyway he runs a chevy nothing wrong with that but the first time we installed a girdle on his studmounted rockers and while we where checking lash we noticed that there is a huge diference the studs move around alot even when just rolling the engine over while setting lash i dont even want to think about how that stuff moves around at 6000+rpm oh and this is with a mild solid streetroller. 242/248at 0.050" .570/.576


not a bash or anything just giving some food for thought you want a rocksteady valvetrain,lots of power to be made by just having a stable valvetrain.
studmount works and isnt a problem at all it will even take some pretty good springpreasures and still be reliable,just not as stable.
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Ok, not sure why you posted this directed at me as I am not a proponent of stud mounted rockers. I understand the benefit of shaft mounted rockers. That's why I pointed out there is an alternative to stud mounted rockers on the EQ magnum style heads. The Harland Sharp and Hughes rockers use no studs. Their bolted down directly to the head.
 
$800 bare seems like a good deal if prepping them ran in the $500-$600 range it would seem they would be a decent deal.
 
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