Time For a rebuild

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Had some good evenings of working on the car and most of the day today working on the car. Sanded the trunk floor and cage, masked it off, primed and painted. Started Friday evening at 9 and worked till 1, then again on Saturday night starting at 9 and worked till 2. Got up early today and out in the garage to try to finish it off. The wife was out with me on Friday and Saturday night helping, without her help and encouragement I am sure I would not be at the point I am at. Here are the pics of the work.
 

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More pics
 

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A few more.
 

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Got lucky this week, found and bought a 2007 SRT8 6.1 out of a Jeep. It is a complete engine from intake to exhaust manifolds. Comes with the wiring harness and ecu. It is being delivered next week. Cant wait...
 

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Got some more work done Friday and today. Got the old front suspension out on Friday, today removed the bump stops and filled the spot weld holes. Put the k-frame in and drilled the holes for the backing plates. All in all a good weekend of work. Also bought a small welder to help out with the fabrication of the parts.
 

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The good news is, and you probably already know this, with the alter-k-tion you can run the stock 6.1L Hemi Jeep exhaust manifolds if you want to, though it certainly is not required.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Any mid or rear sump pan will be fine, the front sump will crash into the frame, also will need correct pick up tube for the pan you want to use.
 
:sign3: Although he's not stupid ;)

To swap a Gen III hemi into an A-Body you generally need a mid-sump pan pan as explained by 5.7 Hemi above. However with an Alter-K-Tion you can use a truck rear sump pan as the alter-k-tion doesn't have a rear steering link to interfere with the pan. The only downside is that the stock truck pan would hang quite low. How low? Too low for my taste, it would probably be the lowest point on the car, certainly lower than the cross member on the alter-k-tion.

Final note, read through tincups 5.7 hemi build he spent a lot of time getting a decent oil pan for his hemi. Long Story short, I believe he ended up going with a Canton Oil pan. Not Cheap, but according to him very well made.

Best of Luck,

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Well to day it arrived, not sure where to start with it but I will cross that bridge when I get to it. I was able to spend a couple hours last night painting the frame where the spot welds were and touching up the wheel wells. Sunday the plan is to put in the front end in and if I am able to get to the brakes the that will be a bonus..
 

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Had some help today, my dad came over today for fathers day so I put him to work haha. We got the front suspension in and almost done, took us about 4 1/2 hours. I need to finish the steering and brakes and double check all the bolts are torqued to spec as it seems my torque wrench does not want to click above 80ft/lbs. I know you have all seen the pics of alter-k in a dart but I am posting them anyway.
 

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Post away, we may have seen similar pics, but like pics of a beautiful woman, you can't have too many. :D

On a serious note, I always like new pics because they are often from new angles and if I've never held the part in my hand the more pics from different angles helps me visualize how the parts work and go together.

You're making solid progress, makes me want to get busy on mine.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Just a quick question - are you sure those ex manifolds will clear the frame rails?

I was told they pretty much dump straight onto the rails.........
 
Rat Patrol said:
Just a quick question - are you sure those ex manifolds will clear the frame rails?

I was told they pretty much dump straight onto the rails.........
Click to expand...

Not sure, will be hopefully doing a engine mock soon. I have been looking at them and my try to turn them around and face forward with them. If that works it may be getting twins instead of a pro-charger.
 
Joe Dokes said:
Post away, we may have seen similar pics, but like pics of a beautiful woman, you can't have too many. :D

On a serious note, I always like new pics because they are often from new angles and if I've never held the part in my hand the more pics from different angles helps me visualize how the parts work and go together.

You're making solid progress, makes me want to get busy on mine.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe, now get to work hahaha.
 
Well been another busy week but did get out to do some work on the car, but it did not go so well. I started to assemble the wilwoods and went to put the studs in. Followed the the instructions, they did not call for any lub on the studs of anything. From my experiences steel bolts and aluminum threads don't like going together dry, so I added some anti seize to the area that goes in the hub. Instructions say 77ft/lbs set the torque wrench to 35 and did the first round. bumped the torque wrench to 55 and started to torque, then it happened the treads pulled out of the hub. I called Wilwood and got the send us some pics bla bla bla. So I called Bill Reilly as the kit came with the front end. No questions from he is sending me a new hub. He is one stand up guy and great to deal with.
So Friday night I came home and finished assembling the other side. New hub should be here this week and then I will hopefully get it back on the ground..
 

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Holy dog **** batman, that is freakin' ridiculous. Bill is a stand up guy and stands behind everything he sells, glad you called him. How did that happen?? I'm curious.
 
Not sure how or why, but just started to pull on the torque wrench and it just pulled the threads. It really pissed me off when it happened too. Now every time I torque a bolt on this brake kit I get nervous. I have one side completed and all the wire tying done, have the bracket mounted on the spindle. Just need to pack the bearings and install the seals.
 
Black 69 Dart said:
Not sure how or why, but just started to pull on the torque wrench and it just pulled the threads. It really pissed me off when it happened too. Now every time I torque a bolt on this brake kit I get nervous. I have one side completed and all the wire tying done, have the bracket mounted on the spindle. Just need to pack the bearings and install the seals.
Click to expand...

When using regular Never-Seez vs a dry assembly, you need to reduce the torque value by 30%. [ame]http://bostik-us.com/sites/default/files/N1%20NeverSeez%20Brochure%202011.pdf[/ame]
 
Thanks RealWing, you learn something new everyday. I would have never guessed that you would have to REDUCE the amount of torque when you apply anti-seize to a part.

Good to know.

Personally I've never liked screw in studs, I had some adapter plates on a sand-rail and one by one they would pull out.

I'm pretty sure that Willwood's product is superior to the adapters I was using on my sand-rail.

That being said, since you probably won't ever pull the studs out, I'd use red Loctite on the studs, the last thing I want them doing is backing out.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
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