CichliDart
Well, where is it now?
one left....
PM sent
one left....
depends on what you paid for the mo fuel pump is about $35.
Doug,
Does this look like the right part?
Does it need a filter sock?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-69118...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d04a046e5&vxp=mtr
or
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=976778
Thanks!
Mike
I used an airtex E2044 on my Fury. Look on rockauto, the E2044 is just one of about a dozen brands they offer for a 90 Lincoln mark 7 LSC 5.0.
you'll need to take your tank out. then pull the sending unit out. then cut off the 90degree bend where it goes into the factory sock/filter. join the new pump to the old sending unit line where you cut it off. then apply a new sock/filter to the new pump. WHEN YOU JOIN THE NEW PUMP TO THE OLD SENDING UNIT LINE, BE SURE TO USE HIGH PRESSURE INJECTION HOSE (ONLY 4 INCHES OR SO) AND USE 2 GOOD QUALITY HOSE CLAMPS ON EACH END, TO MAKE SURE IT STAYS IN PLACE. i EVEN MADE A THICK WIRE BRACKET THAT KEEPS THE PUMP FROM MOVING AROUND AT ALL.
You'll have to drill a small 1/4 inch hole in the very top corner of the tank, make sure its at the highest point on the tank so it doesnt leak. run your two pump wires out through that hole, then seal the hole with a small rubber grommet that fits into the drilled hole. I even siliconed around it so it wouldnt come loose. plug those wires into your pump and fit the pump/sock/sending unit back into the tank. BE SURE TTO PUT A NEW O-RING BETWEEN THE SENDING UNIT AND THE TANK, AS THE 40 YEAR OLD ONE WILL ABSOLUTELY LEAK IF YOU REUSE IT! I even replaced the filer neck tube grommet too while i was at it.
take your time, you dont want to fill up a tank and find out you have a leak and have to drop it again to fix it....it makes a mess and gas isnt cheap!
I see no reason why it wouldnt work, providing you dont have crazy compression ratios
engine block doesn't have mouting provisions on LA engine for crank sensor, so far I haven't figured out to control that aspect of it in the aftermarket have you?
Seems to me it should be pretty easy to dupe a bracket, especially if you have a complete donor for a guinea pig. You can cut the trans, you can figure a way to use the mag flex, so all you need is the sensor bracket. Maybe a fabbed / bent / welded bracket off say, the rear intake bolts? Don't know if there are bolt holes in the rear of the head? So you bolt a bracket to the mag mounting pad on the engine, and build a pattern / jig from there.
You'd need the mag sensors and distributor, most of "that junk" is on the intake LOL
All the flywheel issues that have been talked about since 2012 were solved a long time ago with a $300 flywheel that is 134 tooth for A833 but has reluctor built in.
I chose obd 1 for several reasons. One, its easy to run with any transmission. Two, they were plentiful and cheap (but 91-95 models are getting older now and harder to find). Three, I got my hands on a low mile 5.9 OBD 1 complete setup really cheap. Four, stock is plenty fine for me; not everyone wants to add cams and heads and need tunability for such. I am quite happy with the results of going from a poly 318 to a 5.9 that was totally stock.
Overall, I agree with you. the OBD 2 setup is better. But, if you're gonna keep it all stock, and/or have access to a cheap 91-95 setup....one is not really much better than the other.
We sell them neutral balance, 5.9 magnum or 360 LA. They have been available for several years.I assume when you say "a long time ago" you mean a little over a year ago, right?
And just an FYI, while this thread may have a post from 2012 talking about the issue, I have been talking about it since at least 2009 - MagnumMPI swap - crank pickup fix?
I might have asked this question already (can't remember), but what if someone wanted to use said flywheel behind an externally balanced LA motor, not a Magnum? Can it be balanced for that application, or is it strictly a Magnum piece?
The problem is now most early engines have a million miles on them and there are tons of cheap late model ones with 100K on them. I bought 2 $800 Durangos last week, 120K and 132K. I also dont understand how its easier to use OBD I with any trans compared to OBD II, we do it all the time. You should also check out the fuel injected tanks we sell, much better idea than drilling holes in your tank. BTW I have boxes of OBD I harnesses if they are getting scarce.Overall, I agree with you. the OBD 2 setup is better. But, if you're gonna keep it all stock, and/or have access to a cheap 91-95 setup....one is not really much better than the other.