Permanent cowl cleanouts?

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dibbons

dibbons

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With the '65 Formula S now in the shop, l asked my bodyman/painters to cut some access holes in the lower front corners of the front cowl area so they clesn up inside there (rust treatment, prime, paint). I was thinking when they finished, the access holes would be closed up again (welding the cutout pieces back on and hiding the "scars" with body filler and fresh paint.

However, they have the idea to find some oval shaped body plugs, cutting the openings to size, completing their repairs/refinishing inside the cowl area, and finally simply plugging the holes using the oval body plugs they found. That would provide easy cleanout access in the future. I thought that was a good idea.
 
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Don't you have them already? The outer corners drain into the fenders.
engine 224a.jpg
 
The OEM mindset was to keep engine vapors and carbon monoxide out of the cabin. Those 2 holes shown above were deleted in later models. We can do whatever we want, safe/wise or not.
 
Yes, I have those factory holes already, but they are located a long ways from the corners where I imagine would be the major problem areas.

Searching some other threads I found some additional information. Unfortunately, some of the fotos will no longer load because they were loaded from a third party website.
 
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Right, in fact, someone here on FABO mentioned making a temp cowl seal using magnetic sign material. I guess the ideal would have one close upon engine shut down like the B Body air grabber.
 
dibbons said:
Yes, I have those factory holes already, but they are located s long ways from the corners where I imagine would be the major problem areas.

Searching some other threads I found some additional information. Unfortunately, some of the fotos will no longer load because they were loaded from a third party website.
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You are talking about your early Barracuda aren't you? This picture here is obviously not a early A because the plastic plugs in the engine compartment are missing but the early cars have similar drains. Debris enters the cowl vent and plugs these corner vents. The moisture rusts the corners out. If leaves get in the fenders around the hood hinges, that stuff can plug the drains on the bottom of the fender just behind the wheel opening and rust out there too.
cowl.jpg

The corners drain out at the fenders. Here's a thread for a 68 Dart: Cowl Cleaning
 
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toolmanmike said:
You are talking about your early Barracuda aren't you? The picture is obviously not a early A because the plastic plugs in the engine compartment are missing but the early cars have similar drains. Debris enters the cowl vent and plugs these corner vents. The moisture rusts the corners out. If leaves get in the fenders around the hood hinges, that stuff can plug the drains on the bottom of the fender just behind the wheel opening and rust out there too.View attachment 1715150590
The corners drain out at the fenders. Here's a thread for a 68 Dart: Cowl Cleaning
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I've found and stopped several under dash leaks in my 74 Dart Sport. Yesterday I discovered I have this problem too. Leaking at the seam behind the Instrument cluster. Are there holes behind the fender for draining? Or do I need to make my own? I'd rather remove the fender than cut holes in my cowl.
 
Tays340 said:
I've found and stopped several under dash leaks in my 74 Dart Sport. Yesterday I discovered I have this problem too. Leaking at the seam behind the Instrument cluster. Are there holes behind the fender for draining? Or do I need to make my own? I'd rather remove the fender than cut holes in my cowl.
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Your car has the same openings as shown in post #8 ^. Well below what is shown in that pic are 2 bolts attaching the dog leg section of the front fender to the rocker rail. There will be some amount of washers/spacers for panel alignment between the fender and rocker rail. So the gaps between the parts and spacers is the only lower drain openings to the ground. I have removed the 2 bolts and spacers to pull out on the fender a bit to flush this area well after I had flushed from cowl down. I don't have a rocker molding on the 67. A rocker molding wont let you pull the fender outward much at all. Either way you have to get the spacers back in the correct arrangement.
 
Im getting ready to do this to my car today actually. Cutting holes on both ends and installing body plugs. Im also going to do a couple on the inside of the car up about half way in the middle of the cowl. There are a couple flat areas that should work well.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Im getting ready to do this to my car today actually. Cutting holes on both ends and installing body plugs. Im also going to do a couple on the inside of the car up about half way in the middle of the cowl. There are a couple flat areas that should work well.
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You don't realise how much debris gets stuck in those crevasses until you take a old car for a first cruise and open the barn door vents and get showered with leaves and mouse skeletons. LOL Then when you flush under the hood and science projects come flowing out by your feet. Easy access to clean would be a great idea.
 
My entire cowl was packed full of mouse nest. Was not like that before I put it in the garage but I got side-tracked on the project and it sat a few years.
I have since sandblasted it and im still trying to get all the sand out of the nooks. Almost there. Hope to get some paint inside it this weekend. I bought some of the eastwood paint that comes with the magic wand for things like the cowl and inside frame rails.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Im getting ready to do this to my car today actually. Cutting holes on both ends and installing body plugs. Im also going to do a couple on the inside of the car up about half way in the middle of the cowl. There are a couple flat areas that should work well.
Click to expand...
Holes cut inside makes absolutely no sense to me, Even in a stripped down drag car with no heater case, etc...
 
The first drive........if I live that long.......in the reconstituted 67 may be a real *****. I had the body sandblasted...................
 
dibbons said:
With the '65 Formula S now in the shop, l asked my bodyman/painters to cut some access holes in the lower front corners of the front cowl area so they clesn up inside there (rust treatment, prime, paint). I was thinking when they finished, the access holes would be closed up again (welding the cutout pieces back on and hiding the "scars" with body filler and fresh paint.

However, they have the idea to find some oval shaped body plugs, cutting the openings to size, completing their repairs/refinishing inside the cowl area, and finally simply plugging the holes using the oval body plugs they found. That would provide easy cleanout access in the future. I thought that was a good idea.
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Or, you can multi-task the holes like I did.

Airbox2.JPG
 
RedFish said:
Holes cut inside makes absolutely no sense to me, Even in a stripped down drag car with no heater case, etc...
Click to expand...

In my case im doing it to gain access to be able to paint inside the cowl. I have bare steel where it was sandblasted from blasting the cowl intake grating. When I said inside, I mean on the inside of the car where the dash will hide it. Two 1.5" holes that will get sealed with rubber body plugs. I think I can get the wand in through the wiper pivot holes to get it painted. Im not cutting holes unless I have to but if I do you would not be able to tell without pulling the dash out.
 
I am glad others are wrestling with this issue also.

I have been debating how to deal with the pine straw there before I prime and put POR-15 in that area. A panel would th a foam gasket and held in by 6 or 8 cam-loks (zeus fasteners) has crossed my mind.

I even considered cutting out the vent completely and just welding it up with solid sheet metal to keep it clean.

Your thoughts?
 
JeffisOld said:
I am glad others are wrestling with this issue also.

I have been debating how to deal with the pine straw there before I prime and put POR-15 in that area. A panel would th a foam gasket and held in by 6 or 8 cam-loks (zeus fasteners) has crossed my mind.

I even considered cutting out the vent completely and just welding it up with solid sheet metal to keep it clean. Your thoughts?
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I've noticed that some of the later models had 2 much smaller intake vent/grille areas. Many of those have much larger cabins too. Not sure why a-body needed so much intake area. Lesser opening equals lesser debris entering. Mice didn't go in through this grille anyway. So completely closing the grille isn't a cure all. Just a more cozy home for critters.
 
I am been searching for some larger oval rubber body plugs to use as a pattern for cutting the holes in the corners that I want to use for cleaning and painting and maintenance. Can't find anything the "correct" size, everything too small. Might have to search the floors of wrecking yard vehicles around here to see what I can come up with.
 
dibbons said:
I am been searching for some larger oval rubber body plugs to use as a pattern for cutting the holes in the corners that I want to use for cleaning and painting and maintenance. Can't find anything the "correct" size, everything too small. Might have to search the floors of wrecking yard vehicles around here to see what I can come up with.
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The A bodys had a large oval plastic plug behind the rear door panels. Im not sure where you can buy them as they dont come in the body plug kits.
 
The PO of my car had stored it outside under a red pine. I've had it in my garage now for 5 years, and every year I roll it to the alley for a power wash. 5 years running and I still blow pine needles and dirt out of the cowl with the power washer.

I figure if I can go 2 years with no debris draining out, I'll use Eastwoods internal chassis paint (the one that comes with the rubber extension hose) to get it protected. Maybe some cavity wax as well to get all the crevices.
 
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