Location for 3" Tube on Pass Side, 70 Duster

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70DusterBob

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My Duster doesn't have a location that is easy to get to for a 3" Pipe to get by the cross member by the tranny. It has two raised spots one for the driver's side pipe and one for the pass side pipe, but the pass is way over towards the driver's side so it would require practically an "S" bend to get the pipe to go through it. I think these headers are longer than what I previously had on there because it worked with 2-1/2" pipe, but it wasn't quite the sharp "S" Curve it will have to be now.

I can tell my exhaust guy to put it under the cross member, but I don't know how this is going to effect clearance. I don't drive it in the city much at all, but I think if I put it under the cross member, in a straight line from the header outlet, that I may not be able to clear some of the "Slow" bumps (speed bumps) in the city if I ever did need to go there.

Any ideas?
 
Those big divits in the cross member ARE for exhaust. These days there are all kinds of exhaust parts including "oval" bent fittings. Don't know what else to offer. Buy bends/ cut/ weld?
 
Put some 1.03 bars on it,HD springs, HD shocks, and get the K up off the floor to 5.75 inches; And you can hammer over anything....... like I do,lol. My dual 3s have never been touched by anything in 135,000 miles, and they come straight off the TTIs with only a small angle to hit the mufflers in the stock locations. She's mostly hiway by miles, but mostly city by use.
 
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I have a complete TTI 3" kit with x-pipe, fits perfect in my 71 duster with no issues whatsoever. i put the exhaust on at home on the garage floor. The entire kits sits up nice and high.
 
I piecut my 3 1/2" exh
My Duster doesn't have a location that is easy to get to for a 3" Pipe to get by the cross member by the tranny. It has two raised spots one for the driver's side pipe and one for the pass side pipe, but the pass is way over towards the driver's side so it would require practically an "S" bend to get the pipe to go through it. I think these headers are longer than what I previously had on there because it worked with 2-1/2" pipe, but it wasn't quite the sharp "S" Curve it will have to be now.

I can tell my exhaust guy to put it under the cross member, but I don't know how this is going to effect clearance. I don't drive it in the city much at all, but I think if I put it under the cross member, in a straight line from the header outlet, that I may not be able to clear some of the "Slow" bumps (speed bumps) in the city if I ever did need to go there.

Any ideas?[/QUOTE
I built my own exhaust , dual 3 1/2'' , dumped down in front of the rear axle. U can pie cut the pieces coming out of the header collector to turn down and back up to header level , mine do not touch anything , and have not had any problems w/ speed bumps or other wise . Th upper bolt on the drivers side header is a little tough , but do able.
I run two 3 1/2" bullet mufflers with 3 1/2" spiral inserts tack welded in side them before the turn downs. Not really too loud, no drone or racking, but u can definitely hear the 440/505 . I would think 3" would be a piece of cake on my 68 fastback . ---------A mig welder is a great investment !!
 
I have a complete TTI 3" kit with x-pipe, fits perfect in my 71 duster with no issues whatsoever. i put the exhaust on at home on the garage floor. The entire kits sits up nice and high.

Cool, would you happen to have a part number or a link to summit for the kit? I can't find it. I will try to call Patriot the mfg of the headers to see if they make anything.
 
@COSIG sells a modified trans cross member just for that issue.

Who is @COSIG? Do you have a web site for them?

I haven't had a chance to work out that dist issue. Just haven't touched it since I blew out "another" dist. I put a post in the electrical/ignition thread section.
 
Those big divits in the cross member ARE for exhaust. These days there are all kinds of exhaust parts including "oval" bent fittings. Don't know what else to offer. Buy bends/ cut/ weld?

I understand what your saying, but the header exits about 1 foot or so from the cross member, there is no way to reach the divit with a conventional system. The ovals may work if I can find some. Will be working on this for a while.
 
Not sure how much is different, but i have a low deck big block in my duster, car was a slant 6 with 904 trans.
 
Not sure how much is different, but i have a low deck big block in my duster, car was a slant 6 with 904 trans.

No different. Now that you mentioned it, the fact that it was a /6 is probably the problem. The exhaust divits or whatever they are called are not near the correct position for the V8 headers. I will have to see what I can do. It will take time for sure.
 
The transcrossmember/torsionbar crossmember is the same regardless of engine.
A Foot or so should be plenty of space to run the pipe where it belongs,running them under the tosionbar crossmember outside of the exhaust cutouts is just lazy and leaving things halfdone,just do it right!
 
The problem is the header on the pass side is too long to run an "S" curve in the exhaust. What I figured out to do is to cut the header, take out about 3 inches or so. That should give more clearance for the "S" that does need to be there, but right now it would be too sharp, but not only that, the drivers side doesn't have much of a curve at all to meet the cutout/divit/ whatever it is, that the exhaust is supposed to go through. That would make the pressures uneven, by a long shot. It's not that I want to take a short cut, it is too sharp of a curve. It may be less than a foot, not sure, but at the most it's a foot.

I appreciate everyone, thanks!
 
Look this guy up as you are in Texas. Problem solved. he is on instagram, does **** with pipe that is amazing. it is an artwork for him.

Rowdy Flanagan's Muffler Shop

2850 fm1980
Marble Falls, Tx 78654
IN-HOUSE MANDREL BENDING
 
Will these help?

Hedman Universal Header X-Tensions 18718.
I plan using something similar on my 72 Scamp. I found some that were Flanged on both ends so I could use them with a set of header mufflers that I already have. But now I can't seem to find them. Good luck with your project.

@70DusterBob , I’m pretty sure this is the solution. Cut the “S” down to fit. Been there done that but not at 3 inch pipe.
 
@70DusterBob , I’m pretty sure this is the solution. Cut the “S” down to fit. Been there done that but not at 3 inch pipe.

Hey Rumblefish...

I appreciate the assurance, but I'm not sure sure they will work. Here are the headers I got, note the length of the passenger side, it is like 8-10" longer than the driver's, which would have been standard. I got them without noticing this problem:

Patriot Full-Length Headers H8206

I'm pretty sure you can also see the type of flange is flat, not ball type, does that matter?

Thanks, I appreciate your trying to save me some work, but I'm not sure sure it will work. If you feel it will still work, let me know and I will get them. I can always ship them back after checking them out, but I don't want to go through the $10 to ship them back if your not still sure they will work...

Thanks,
Bob
 
Look this guy up as you are in Texas. Problem solved. he is on instagram, does **** with pipe that is amazing. it is an artwork for him.

Rowdy Flanagan's Muffler Shop

2850 fm1980
Marble Falls, Tx 78654
IN-HOUSE MANDREL BENDING

I will wait to see what Rumblefish says about the "S" tubes on Summit. Marble Falls is about 100 something miles from here or so, maybe a little less, but about that far. And although it is far, I super appreciate the lead. I think I will have to get some fancy foot work done to make this work. Check out the length of the passenger side header on this link.

Patriot Full-Length Headers H8206

These are the ones I got and what I have been referring to. They say they fit my Duster, but the pass side is about 8-10" longer than the driver's side. I think he could probably just cut some of that out and it would be fine, but it would take a pro to do it, for sure!

Thanks
 
I have used the 2-1/2 inch S bends with those type of 1 size fits all header. I don’t know how much of an offset the headers were that I used vs each other and yours. But the headers that were used were Summit’s, Hooker & Hedman IIRC.

Now the 3 inch tube could very well create a fitting issue. IF you want to possibly try an experiment and for a small tuition fee, learn the old fashion way of trying and possibly succeeding, I suggest purchasingthe S bends and two 3 inch slip over exhaust tube connectors and cut the straight side of the pipe down the amount you need. Clamp now and/or weld later.

This has worked for me on the 2-1/2 S pipe before but I can’t remember what header was the problem.
 
I have used the 2-1/2 inch S bends with those type of 1 size fits all header. I don’t know how much of an offset the headers were that I used vs each other and yours. But the headers that were used were Summit’s, Hooker & Hedman IIRC.

Now the 3 inch tube could very well create a fitting issue. IF you want to possibly try an experiment and for a small tuition fee, learn the old fashion way of trying and possibly succeeding, I suggest purchasingthe S bends and two 3 inch slip over exhaust tube connectors and cut the straight side of the pipe down the amount you need. Clamp now and/or weld later.

This has worked for me on the 2-1/2 S pipe before but I can’t remember what header was the problem.
I will wait to see what Rumblefish says about the "S" tubes on Summit. Marble Falls is about 100 something miles from here or so, maybe a little less, but about that far. And although it is far, I super appreciate the lead. I think I will have to get some fancy foot work done to make this work. Check out the length of the passenger side header on this link.

Patriot Full-Length Headers H8206

These are the ones I got and what I have been referring to. They say they fit my Duster, but the pass side is about 8-10" longer than the driver's side. I think he could probably just cut some of that out and it would be fine, but it would take a pro to do it, for sure!

Thanks
I have the same headers. I measured and it looks like they need a 5" offset to the pipe. I plan using the offset extension pipes like I mentioned earlier on this thread. My exhaust is 2.5" so of course yours will fit a little different. Anyhow, I'll have to do some cutting an welding probably and a little bending also. I plan on using the collectors that came with the headers and welding the extensions to them. I plan on cutting off the Flanged end of the extensions so that the bendis as close to the header as possible. If all else fails I'm sure most muffler shops could fix this problem pretty easily. I have a couple pictures here to show you we're pretty much both in the same boat. Good luck!
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From the end of the header to the x member is 7" . I tried to hold the tape measure up and take a pic at the same time so it's not perfect, but the offset is pretty close to 5" to have it centered on the cutout area of the x member. Pics are with collectors temporarily in place. Let us know what you end up doing. Thanks Steve
 
I have the same headers. I measured and it looks like they need a 5" offset to the pipe. I plan using the offset extension pipes like I mentioned earlier on this thread. My exhaust is 2.5" so of course yours will fit a little different. Anyhow, I'll have to do some cutting an welding probably and a little bending also. I plan on using the collectors that came with the headers and welding the extensions to them. I plan on cutting off the Flanged end of the extensions so that the bendis as close to the header as possible. If all else fails I'm sure most muffler shops could fix this problem pretty easily. I have a couple pictures here to show you we're pretty much both in the same boat. Good luck!

From the end of the header to the x member is 7" . I tried to hold the tape measure up and take a pic at the same time so it's not perfect, but the offset is pretty close to 5" to have it centered on the cutout area of the x member. Pics are with collectors temporarily in place. Let us know what you end up doing. Thanks Steve

Thank you Steve. It says on the web page that these headers fit our cars. HA! lol... I don't know what the idea was behind making the pass longer than the drivers. I will see if Flanagan's will cut the collector down some, how much I don't know, but it needs chopping to put 3" in. I think anyway. I just don't see putting a sharp "S" curve as a solution.

A picture is worth a thousand words as they say. Yeah, you have the same predicament. I think I will call Summit and let them know that these headers don't really fit our cars. Maybe the "B" bodys but not "A".

I will try to get a picture of my car in here.
 
Thank you Steve. It says on the web page that these headers fit our cars. HA! lol... I don't know what the idea was behind making the pass longer than the drivers. I will see if Flanagan's will cut the collector down some, how much I don't know, but it needs chopping to put 3" in. I think anyway. I just don't see putting a sharp "S" curve as a solution.

A picture is worth a thousand words as they say. Yeah, you have the same predicament. I think I will call Summit and let them know that these headers don't really fit our cars. Maybe the "B" bodys but not "A".

I will try to get a picture of my car in here.
Well as for why they made one side longer than the other, a light bulb just came on. Looking at the headers side by side it looks like they were trying to make them equal length tubes for the performance aspect of it. Whether they succeeded or not I don't know. At least it's on the passenger side where it's easy to get at and remove again. LOL.
 
You are not the first to put 3" pipes on an A-body !
Wait till you get to fitting the 3" tailpipes out to the bumper, you're gonna have another "can't be done" moment !
But it can, and has been by many.
Find a good muffler shop.
 
You are not the first to put 3" pipes on an A-body !
Wait till you get to fitting the 3" tailpipes out to the bumper, you're gonna have another "can't be done" moment !
But it can, and has been by many.
Find a good muffler shop.

I did get a miracle worker to get 3" over the diff and they come out right behind the back tires to limit back pressure. The header on the pass is too long, trust me. I will try to get a pic up in here in the next few days. I do believe a good exhaust guy can fix this, but I also think the header is way too long, I'm fairly certain he will need to cut about 4" out of the collector. There is just no room to 90 towards the exhaust cut out in the cross member, jog over to it then 90 over towards the back. It can't be two 45's, no way.
 
If the pictured headers with reducers/extensions are the same part# i would just get a couple 45degree bends(can easily be found drawn on a short 4" radius but a 5" or 6" would probably be ok aswell). dont look like a bigger lack of space than i remember from my junk when i ran Hooker supercomps.
If you cut the first bend right at the tangencypoint its not going to use much space at all and if if you weld the tangencypoint of the first bend right to the 3bolt flange its probably even going to be to short for your application.
IF all else has failed just cut some lenght from the collector its no big deal.
Also dont worry about cutting down a few bends,its not a big deal you will probably find a use for left over sections further downstream as you keep on building.
 
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