8k rpm ...

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65-440 said:
Sorry, no converter needed with a 4spd ....... :realcrazy::realcrazy::realcrazy:
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Lonnie Leach said:
Don't let the self proclaimed DR . Give you info ..If you reduce your rotating Mass by knife edging and lighting your crank have pistons made with a small block Chevy wrist pins thin ring pack with gas port holes and smaller skirts use high side of your clearances to get your parasitic resistance down to a bout 10lbs to rotate your lower end..Get some Program Billet steel 4 bolt main caps and a good Machinist to do your work.. Of course you need to run a sump style oil pump,Good heads, cam and valve train..Not going to give you all My secrets..lol But I shift mine at 7,600 to 7,700 and Pulls up to that #
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7600-7700 falls short of 8000. Really, nothing is secret about building an 8000 rpm small block. ka ching !!1
 
Lonnie Leach said:
Hope some will see a typo and not actuality think that
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:poke::lol: When I first started reading I thought "this guy sounds like he knows what's going on" until I got to all those zeros at the end of your post. LOL
 
Cope said:
Of course it can be done. We can lift heavy objects into space.

Is it cheep, no.

With good people and enough money almost nothing is out of reach. Just how bad do you want it and do you want to try and make a falcon 9 fit for trips to the ice cream shop?
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It actually isn't that much money. Most everyone (except the Chrylser people...for various reasons) already have an aftermarket block.

Valve train components are so far ahead of what they were 25 years ago, and are relatively inexpensive that it doesn't make sense to not use good parts there anyway.

Connecting rods, dampers, lightweight pistons and rings...all that stuff guys are already using anyway.

So cost isn't really a factor.

Now, if you are stuck with OE Chrysler architecture then that's a horse of a different feather.
 
yellow rose said:
It actually isn't that much money. Most everyone (except the Chrylser people...for various reasons) already have an aftermarket block.

Valve train components are so far ahead of what they were 25 years ago, and are relatively inexpensive that it doesn't make sense to not use good parts there anyway.

Connecting rods, dampers, lightweight pistons and rings...all that stuff guys are already using anyway.

So cost isn't really a factor.

Now, if you are stuck with OE Chrysler architecture then that's a horse of a different feather.
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Back to my NASCAR engine suggestion. They are designed and built for high rpm..
 
Lonnie Leach said:
Don't let the self proclaimed DR . Give you info ..If you reduce your rotating Mass by knife edging and lighting your crank have pistons made with a small block Chevy wrist pins thin ring pack with gas port holes and smaller skirts use high side of your clearances to get your parasitic resistance down to a bout 10lbs to rotate your lower end..Get some Program Billet steel 4 bolt main caps and a good Machinist to do your work.. Of course you need to run a sump style oil pump,Good heads, cam and valve train..Not going to give you all My secrets..lol But I shift mine at 7,600 to 7,700 and Pulls up to that #
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LOL. What the hell is a sump style oil pump? Unless you mean a dry sump?

4 bolt caps on a production block is a waste of money and downright ignorant. There isn't enough materiel in the pan rail to move ANY load out there. Chrylser didn't start filling the pan rails on the T/A blocks and every other race block often that for giggles. Just dumb advice.

Rotating mass isn't nearly as important as you'd like it to be. You have to get OIL to the RODS. If you can't do that, you're done from the jump.

And 7600 isn't 8000. Not by a long shot.
 
Go on Moparts and check out the post in the race section. That was an expensive crank in an expensive Ritter block that was built for high rpm. Bunch of scrap metal now on a high dollar build.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Go on Moparts and check out the post in the race section. That was an expensive crank in an expensive Ritter block that was built for high rpm. Bunch of scrap metal now on a high dollar build.
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Link for those interested?
 
pittsburghracer said:
Go on Moparts and check out the post in the race section. That was an expensive crank in an expensive Ritter block that was built for high rpm. Bunch of scrap metal now on a high dollar build.
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I saw that. I don't know how many passes he has on that combo but I think he had quite a few.


BTW, I've seen cranks break like that before. I'm pretty sure I know what caused it. But the amount of HATE that would be tossed my way wouldn't be worth the time to post it.
 
Shilo had some coin wrapped up in that motor. It isn't your everyday build.
 
fishmens67 said:
Shilo had some coin wrapped up in that motor. It isn't your everyday build.
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None of the heads up type classes are cheap.

My two friends are still toying with the idea of a small tire deal. They were looking a big tire stuff but the money and other things (mostly the other things) turned them off on that.
 
toolmanmike said:
:poke::lol: When I first started reading I thought "this guy sounds like he knows what's going on" until I got to all those zeros at the end of your post. LOL
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Yea you know how it is when you are typing and thinking it in your head and you punch the button to many times..Need to proof read better ..lol
 
yellow rose said:
I think that's a picture off the web that was posted as an example of a HUGE explosion.

I think the only picture Shilo posted was a crank with a rod and maybe a piston.
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I see that now, looks like a little too much NOS.
 
Stock 273 block 8 sleeves and 3.75 bore for 292 cubic inches
Stock crank
5.4 H-beam Ford rods with EDM pin oiling
Diamond custom pistons with crappy 1/16 ring package
Wet sump oil pan and HV pump with oil crossover
Iron magnum style engine quest heads w/roller rockers, jomar girdles and pushrod oiling
Comp solid roller cam and lifters
Lots better parts today to make way more power

23AC31A5-F72A-4080-A9D2-7715B692F5F3.jpeg
2B4CE9FB-ACB3-4E01-B0F1-4FA9F5AB6106.jpeg
 
I’ve buried a 9,000 rpm tach more times then I can count for over a decade in a 340
Dual purpose street strip car. Nothing exotic or expensive.
Only issues were an occasional broken valve spring, which meant I carried a spare, and got pretty good at changing at the strip.
Ported J heads with the .557 sold cam and a 160 pounds of valve seat pressure.
4.56 gears, and 4500 stall 3200 lb Dart in my profile
 
12swinger said:
I’ve buried a 9,000 rpm tach more times then I can count for over a decade in a 340
Dual purpose street strip car. Nothing exotic or expensive.
Only issues were an occasional broken valve spring, which meant I carried a spare, and got pretty good at changing at the strip.
Ported J heads with the .557 sold cam and a 160 pounds of valve seat pressure.
4.56 gears, and 4500 stall 3200 lb Dart in my profile
Click to expand...


What did it run at the track.
 
12swinger said:
I’ve buried a 9,000 rpm tach more times then I can count for over a decade in a 340
Dual purpose street strip car. Nothing exotic or expensive.
Only issues were an occasional broken valve spring, which meant I carried a spare, and got pretty good at changing at the strip.
Ported J heads with the .557 sold cam and a 160 pounds of valve seat pressure.
4.56 gears, and 4500 stall 3200 lb Dart in my profile
Click to expand...


Post up your tire size and gear ratio. Then we will know how accurate your tach is. I say it's junk.
 
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