Built 340 stored 22 years suggestions

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MerlinsMopar

MerlinsMopar

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So I had a 340 built 22 years ago for some drag racing in my demon but was then warned to tie the car together and cage it so it went on the back burner and I ended up building 3 other cars since. 340 forged internals .030 over venola pistons 11.0 total compression port matched heads to m1 single plane with 2.08 intakes. 590" purple shaft. Carb flowed to 972 cfm. Oiling mods etc. Harland sharp roller rockers were set on action and I would turn it over 1/4 turn every month for years. Probably has a few miles on it by now. Anyone have recommendations on prep for firing this off? Of course It has been sealed and kept it oiled but wondering if I should disassemble. 10k in this motor and that was a long time ago. I did pull a motor out of a barn that sat for years and was fresh and fired that off with no issues. Any suggestions are very welcome. What type hp should I expect with this? Thanks...
 
Has the engine ever been fired and the cam broken in?
If not, I would take the cam out, clean and slather on new cam break in compound. Then change the oil filter & add in fresh break in oil like Brad Penn.

Pop the distributor out and prime the oiling system.
Rotate the engine while the drill is turning the oil pump.
(Very important!)
Make sure the distributor is set to fire the engine off immediately.

Fill the carb with gasoline. Double check the carb for leaks & free movement. Then proceed to fire that baby up.

Power wise, to hard to call. Only because you didn’t state what heads are on top or if there ports are stock or ported. (Head flow numbers would be useful here if you had them.)

It it sure sounds like a barrel (or 4) of fun.
Keep us updated!
Pictures would be cool if you can.
 
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Pre-oil it with a oil pump drive while tuning the crank 1 revolution, then dump a pint of oil in the valve cover just before you start it---- fill carb and start it. Keep it running for 20 minutes at 15-2000 RPM, normal break in stuff. I wouldn't tear into it unless I had to, and how you stored it sounds fine to me.
 
Heads started out as j and the machinist didnt think 2.08s would fit. I took 3 sets including an x set before the final ones were built and I had mopar performance tech line call him before he finally opened them up. They were fully ported and flowed but never got the exact specs. I do know the valves were like titanium or something to resist warping and the head work alone was 5k+. Then he flowed the holley 750 to 972cfm to match if that helps at all. I wanted to invest alot into the head work as it helps produce the most out of the motor. I wanted alot more like 12.5 comp etc but he said i was building a bomb and wouldnt last very long so i went with 11.1 final comp. The shop raced at the same track (ford) and i had 2nd thoughts he knew it was gonna be strong competition but hence never finished the car until now its real close. Tubbed, 8pt roll cage, frame tied w 2x4 c channel qa1 up front. Full fiberglass front clip and fiberglass trunk. The 325/50/15 nittos look nice under there and should hook up good. Still gotta get a tranny together yet which is$$$ and gonna fire up the 71 challenger 340 4sp # matching car before moving back to it as that shouldnt take alot to get moving again. Thanks for the input to all. Love this site. Its as addictive as the mopars!
 
He did say he was doing the engine a little.
 
Rumble fish: Forgive me OP if I am hijacking, but since you know and I don’t know I thought I would ask. How exactly do you prime the oiling system? I have a 318 engine that’s in a car that has about 3000 miles on it but it has been sitting for about four or five years. Do I need a specific tool to put into the drill (which way do I turn the drill) or can I take an old distributor apart and use a distributor shaft in my drill to turn the pump?
 
Ensure you don’t have excess oil in the cylinders, oil doesn’t compress and could potentially cause a bent rod when you fire it up
 
Valiant63 said:
Rumble fish: Forgive me OP if I am hijacking, but since you know and I don’t know I thought I would ask. How exactly do you prime the oiling system? I have a 318 engine that’s in a car that has about 3000 miles on it but it has been sitting for about four or five years. Do I need a specific tool to put into the drill (which way do I turn the drill) or can I take an old distributor apart and use a distributor shaft in my drill to turn the pump?
Click to expand...
 
If you want to reprime it you can get a tool at summit racing or make 1 from an old pump gear. Rotate drill clockwise and rotate motor at least 2 full revolutions slowly while priming. Make sure you drop the gear and distributor back on tdc. Check gauge for psi to assure psi is present before firing. Thats what most people do.. you have to remove the gear under the distributor 1st turn counter clockwise with a screw driver and use a magnet to pull out when it pops up off the cam gear.
 
Valiant63 said:
Rumble fish: Forgive me OP if I am hijacking, but since you know and I don’t know I thought I would ask. How exactly do you prime the oiling system? I have a 318 engine that’s in a car that has about 3000 miles on it but it has been sitting for about four or five years. Do I need a specific tool to put into the drill (which way do I turn the drill) or can I take an old distributor apart and use a distributor shaft in my drill to turn the pump?
Click to expand...

Not the distributor shaft. Rrmove the gear from a intermediate shaft. Then weld a long Bolt to the top of it cut the head of the bolt off. Chuck it in the grill and spin it.
If you spin it backwards you will hear it blowing bubbles into the oil.
 
Dang! Take a nap and bam!

Nice job guys. Makes this picture useless.....
Ha ha ha ha

@Valiant63 Theres a shot of it. Pop in your drill and use the slow setting. It’ll be enough. Use a medium setting at max. The high setting is really spinning the pump! And as mentioned, have a buddy turn the engine over slowly and oil will flow.
Don’t forget to remove the spark plugs for ease of turning it over.

And yes, an old distributor will do well dismantled.

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Drill? I use a speed wrench with a socket to spin the prime shaft, while one of my sons spins the crank. My drill is too dirty to use over a a fresh engine.
 
Mopar Sam said:
Drill? I use a speed wrench with a socket to spin the prime shaft, while one of my sons spins the crank. My drill is too dirty to use over a a fresh engine.
Click to expand...
That's sounds like the time you inherited a ***** house and all the girls quit, had to run it by hand for awhile.
 
Alright guys, how do you get the cam gear and intermediate shaft out of the engine? I took a coat hanger and put a hook on the end of it and I got the gear lifted up to the opening, but I couldn’t pull it through because the gear is too big with the wire over the end of it. So how do you do it? A big magnet?
 
By the way, I got all the spark plugs out and shot oil and marvelous mystery oil into all the cylinders and let it set for a a few days, maybe a week, but I can’t turn the engine.
 
To get the oil pump drive out I usually use a bit screw to twist and disengage the distributor drive and then I use a telescoping magnet wand to lift it out. I have also used a looped piece of string to lasso the distributor drive when I did not have a magnet handy.
 
My telescoping magnet was not strong enough to lift the gear out. I already have it loose, but it still won’t come out the hole in the top. I’m going to go to the auto parts store and see if I can buy another one or maybe a stronger magnet.
Does it matter what orientation the gear is in when you put it back in after priming the oil?
 
To get the drive out, I put two flat screwdrivers in the slot and with the handles next to each other so the shafts are touching, squeeze them together and twist them counter clockwise, I think, and the gear will drive itself right up and out. Make take a few tries to get it.
 
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