Dartin for Divorce

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Another thing my uncle always said: "if you want to rebuild it twice, reuse the converter."

Hate to say it, but there it is.
 
Another thing my uncle always said: "if you want to rebuild it twice, reuse the converter."

Hate to say it, but there it is.

It's ok. I just broke the news to my wife. I'll have to figure out a converter. 500+ converter is out of the question, so I'll call the company in town about rebuilding mine or maybe someone has a 2500 stall 904 converter laying around
 
Yea aarcuda says the kits he likes are about 120-150. Now I'll have to figure out the converter situation too.

Pulling it is going to suck, I just got it back the car back together and I'm old!
Pulling the trans shouldn’t be to bad. And your not old! Sometimes we all fell old laying on the ground for to long tho.
 
I've actually got a converter for a 904 on my shelf. I'll head out to the barn and see what it is. It's red is all I remember at the moment :lol:
 
It’s one of those moments when you get that sour taste in your mouth . Hey could have been just a coincidence , it happens ! Filter looks like it has a build up blockage with mud (band and clutch material). Could have been worse you could have been 100s of miles out and It decides to take a dump than your up for towing costs.
 
Yea aarcuda says the kits he likes are about 120-150. Now I'll have to figure out the converter situation too.

Pulling it is going to suck, I just got it back the car back together and I'm old!
:rolleyes: i bet my oldest, (at 37) is at least as old as you...and if i get to work laying on my back, i'm happy. better for me than laying over a fender all day

I've actually got a converter for a 904 on my shelf. I'll head out to the barn and see what it is. It's red is all I remember at the moment :lol:
sounds like it will fit :thumbsup:
 
Hughes 27-20. Supposedly about 2k stall, but will depend on actual combo of course.. I bought it to lower my stall speed since my car came with a super loose 3800 stall converter and an anemic and worn out 318 so it sucked to drive.

Anyhow, I'll see if I can find out what shipping this beast would run. I'll PM you with some details later. But if you find something affordable with more stall I'd go for that. This one is probably pretty close to stock, but will work if something better doesn't show up.
 
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Hughes 27-20. Supposedly about 2k stall, but will depend on actual combo of course.. I bought it to lower my stall speed since my car came with a super loose 3800 stall converter and an anemic and worn out 318 so it sucked to drive.

Anyhow, I'll see if I can find out what shipping this beast would run. I'll PM you with some details later. But if you find something affordable with more stall I'd go for that. This one is probably pretty close to stock, but will work if something better doesn't show up.

Thanks! My stock one was 1800 so that's pretty close to it and would probably work! I've called trams companies. I think edge and cope racing transmissions torque converters at 2500 stall is what they recommend and they sell for about 400 shipped to me... how much trouble do I want to get in? Lol.
 
At least you just cleaned the floor :poke:
Sorry man, the trans breaking sucks

Right?! The floor didnt get to much spilled on it just now at least! So weird the trans died like this, but like others said better it died here than miles away with the kids in the car

Maybe I should paint the back half of the engine block now? :lol:
 
While you have the transmission out, you should drain the antifreeze from the motor and replace the 2 freeze plugs in the back of the block if you haven't already done so. 2 brass freeze plugs are cheap, and will prevent much cussing if they go bad in 2 months! Sorry the rabbit hole got deeper. I had a 71 Challenger a few years ago, and the freeze plugs in the back of the block were leaking. I pulled the 904 out to fix them, and stepped into the rabbit hole! 2 freeze plugs turned into the 904 getting swapped for a 727, 7 1/4 rear getting swapped for an 8 3/4, new driveshaft, Comp cam, valve springs, Cloyes timing chain, TTI headers, aluminum intake, and new exhaust, 15" Rallye wheels to replace the cheesy body colored Cop wheels on it when I got it, and probably other things I have forgot! Damn the rabbits and their holes....lol. Good luck Doc.
 
Doc....before you unbolt the converter from the flex plate, take any color of spray paint and spray it on 1 ear of the flex plate and the converter. When you start putting the new trans and converter back in, pull the flex plate off the crank and lay it up against the new converter. It will only line up one way. Take that same paint and mark the new converter to match the flex plate. Now, after you put the flex plate back on, you can easily line the converter bolts up correctly on the 1st try. Hope you saw this in time, but if you're getting a new converter anyway....just pull the flex plate and line it up and mark it before you put the trans in.
 
While you have the transmission out, you should drain the antifreeze from the motor and replace the 2 freeze plugs in the back of the block if you haven't already done so. 2 brass freeze plugs are cheap, and will prevent much cussing if they go bad in 2 months! Sorry the rabbit hole got deeper. I had a 71 Challenger a few years ago, and the freeze plugs in the back of the block were leaking. I pulled the 904 out to fix them, and stepped into the rabbit hole! 2 freeze plugs turned into the 904 getting swapped for a 727, 7 1/4 rear getting swapped for an 8 3/4, new driveshaft, Comp cam, valve springs, Cloyes timing chain, TTI headers, aluminum intake, and new exhaust, 15" Rallye wheels to replace the cheesy body colored Cop wheels on it when I got it, and probably other things I have forgot! Damn the rabbits and their holes....lol. Good luck Doc.

I was supposed to be coming out of the rabbit
hole. I was happy saving the transmission and floor shift until next year.
 
I was supposed to be coming out of the rabbit
hole. I was happy saving the transmission and floor shift until next year.


I thought you would have learned by now there is no way out, each time you start to see the light at the top you get sucked back down, deeper every time. - hopefully you still find something simple without having to pull and rebuild the trans.
 
I thought you would have learned by now there is no way out, each time you start to see the light at the top you get sucked back down, deeper every time. - hopefully you still find something simple without having to pull and rebuild the trans.

I am a hard learner... at this point though would rebuilding the trans and adding a TC really be a bad thing? Sucks to think about doing but would be nice for the rear end, trans and engine all to be done, I wouldn't have to take the car off the road for any major tear downs?
 
I am a hard learner... at this point though would rebuilding the trans and adding a TC really be a bad thing? Sucks to think about doing but would be nice for the rear end, trans and engine all to be done, I wouldn't have to take the car off the road for any major tear downs?

Chances of finding a small issue that can be fixed without a rebuild are slim.

How much does trans fluid cost? How many times you going to fill and drain and throw away that fluid before rebuilding anyway? How much time, labor, and smelling of trans fluid before having to break down and rebuild? Even if just one band or adjustment makes it work again, how long before it finally burns up complete? Hint: less time than if it was overhauled. Next time you may not be so close to home..

The kits are cheap and you'll score a converter one way or another. Tear into it with lots of pictures and a FSM on hand. It's really not hard and you'll learn a ton along the way... Just my $.02
 
Chances of finding a small issue that can be fixed without a rebuild are slim.

How much does trans fluid cost? How many times you going to fill and drain and throw away that fluid before rebuilding anyway? How much time, labor, and smelling of trans fluid before having to break down and rebuild? Even if just one band or adjustment makes it work again, how long before it finally burns up complete? Hint: less time than if it was overhauled. Next time you may not be so close to home..

The kits are cheap and you'll score a converter one way or another. Tear into it with lots of pictures and a FSM on hand. It's really not hard and you'll learn a ton along the way... Just my $.02

Converter is the hard part. A stock or even getting the 27-20 from you are on the lower cost end I think. The only problem is if I'm not happy with converter I'd have to tear into it again to replace it.

This is the speedometer (governor cable?). It was moved away from the firewall when I painted the engine, could this be the culprit?

Ps I think I fucked up my rear band adjustment. I guess I checked it wrong and now I have to try and figure out how to get it back to exactly how tight it was, which isnt that easy lol. The band's seem a little loose now :eek:

20200419_171141.jpg


20200419_171208.jpg


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The speedometer has nothing to do with the governor. That's just the speedometer cable... don't worry about it.

Thanks! I worry about everything since I dont know what the F caused this whole problem to even start and I worry that even with a new rebuild I'll have the same dang problem after.
 
I'll tell you right now, your other work probably isn't related to the transmission issue.

The lokar cable is often a "fix" for people struggling to adjust the factory linkage. I'd wager the previous owner was having transmission trouble and installed the lokar kit to "help" and it was likely set excessively tight to get the car to function.

When you reassembled, the cable likely started loose and that finished off the clutches that were already on their way out.. Couldn't be avoided really, the trans was probably already done so don't beat yourself up.

I got about the same distance (~500 miles) after I bought my car before the thing cooked the clutches. Found out later the previous owner had driven it around for weeks without the trans linkage installed because he couldn't find the right clip...

Hidden damage is a *****.

I hear you on the torque converter. I hope you can find something better than what I have because you already know you want more stall but if you get in a pinch with the wife, I'm sure I can help at least get the car back to running ;)

At least a converter swap is a LOT less work than a cam change!
 
I'll tell you right now, your other work probably isn't related to the transmission issue.

The lokar cable is often a "fix" for people struggling to adjust the factory linkage. I'd wager the previous owner was having transmission trouble and installed the lokar kit to "help" and it was likely set excessively tight to get the car to function.

When you reassembled, the cable likely started loose and that finished off the clutches that were already on their way out.. Couldn't be avoided really, the trans was probably already done so don't beat yourself up.

I got about the same distance (~500 miles) after I bought my car before the thing cooked the clutches. Found out later the previous owner had driven it around for weeks without the trans linkage installed because he couldn't find the right clip...

Hidden damage is a *****.

I hear you on the torque converter. I hope you can find something better than what I have because you already know you want more stall but if you get in a pinch with the wife, I'm sure I can help at least get the car back to running ;)

At least a converter swap is a LOT less work than a cam change!

Is it because I just read how to drop the trans and it seems like a beach, the thing is heavy and I hate being under the car for long periods of time.
 
I have that tranny jack.....I probably got enough parts on hand to rebuild the trans without buying a kit....

i will check my inventory......lol
 
I have a wonderful buy now...pay for the rest of your life plan.....and dont have to tell the wife either....lol
 
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