Ignition nightmares

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Christopher Lounsbery

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Philadelphia, PA
Went from a crank no start to engine runs with intermittent stalling back to a no start. Plugs are fuel fueled and low power out of coil again. Another ballast resistor burnt out. Any thoughts on an upgrade to bypass this ballast? It's a 4 pin Ballast, I've looked at the TSP HEI Coil but will this be all I need? Or is there better options?
 
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You don't bypass stuff just because it burns out. You find out WHY. And if you bypass the resistor, you will just push the problem to failed coils or ECU's

Is this from "some other thread?" How about a back story?

If you insist on this, convert it to a 4 pin GM HEI module.

Have you measured system running voltage? If it is high, it might be the cause
Does the hood/ engine bay leak water? Do you wash down the engine? That can crack/ ruin resistors
Has the coil been replaced? Maybe it's bad and is drawing too much current?
How is it all mounted? Is this a factory setup or a conversion?
 
Yes it is. All circuits to the ballast s
Have less than a .1 voltage drops.2 years ago I replaced the alternator because of a bearing noise, during component inspection found the regulator melted, installed and AC Delco replacement and replaced the factory ignition module because the module was physically falling apart. I've been through a total of 3 ballasts since then. I had an overcharging concern which was repaired by replacement of the primary circuit from end to end. The last ballast operated ok but intermittent stalling occurred. About a week ago, I ordered a replacement ballast and installed its and recharged my battery. It cranks feels like it starts but stalls with the key released.Factory set up, the last time I detailed the engine bay was a year ago and I covered or removed all electronics. It is the factory coil.
 
Is this from "some other thread?" How about a back story?
Looks like this one and the others linked in it.
Overcharging
If OP you want to bring it by and we can troubleshoot it from scratch, that would be the easiest. Only difference now is it will have to be a nice day 'cause we will have to work outside.
 
........Just because it is a "factory coil" does not mean it is a 'good' coil. As in fully up to speed
 
I know that, but to be honest I never thought it would cause ballast failure.

Some will poo poo the statement I'm about to make but so what.:D

If you plan on keeping the car all stock then you might have to deal with what you get, but if you plan on driving that car on a regular basis dump that 50 year old ignition tech and get something you can rely on.
Things can only get worse with the quality of aftermarket parts going the way it is.
I swapped to GM HEI over 6 years ago and not had a single ignition issue since.
Or you could even go the OEM module case with the HEI built into it route.

I personally prefer the 8 pin module with weatherpak connectors.

DSCF0008.JPG


HEI.jpg


4Pin.jpg


8pin.jpg
 
What ballast PN are you ordering?
Do you have a voltmeter/ohmeter?

That TPS HEI coil is not designed to work with the stock Mopar system.
 
Gotta disagree on the "change everything" approach.
That's not for everyone, and only makes the troubleshooting more difficult.
 
Some will poo poo the statement I'm about to make but so what.:D

If you plan on keeping the car all stock then you might have to deal with what you get, but if you plan on driving that car on a regular basis dump that 50 year old ignition tech and get something you can rely on.
Things can only get worse with the quality of aftermarket parts going the way it is.
I swapped to GM HEI over 6 years ago and not had a single ignition issue since.
Or you could even go the OEM module case with the HEI built into it route.

I personally prefer the 8 pin module with weatherpak connectors.

View attachment 1715534357

View attachment 1715534358

View attachment 1715534359

View attachment 1715534360
I'm a GM tech, never experienced this kind of problems .
 
I'm all for the GM HEI upgrade. Normally I would not but the reason is because now, no one offers good replacement stock ignition parts for the old factory Mopar stuff anymore.
 
I'm all for the GM HEI upgrade. Normally I would not but the reason is because now, no one offers good replacement stock ignition parts for the old factory Mopar stuff anymore.

If you know where to look, good parts are still available for an OEM ignition.
 
This is a to each there own topic. Wiring is everything and any good ignition is acceptable IMO!

My pertronix III is basically a GM deal but hides and preforms Really great in my Mopar! Reason being is the wiring is top notch to start with!
 
Some will poo poo the statement I'm about to make but so what.:D

If you plan on keeping the car all stock then you might have to deal with what you get, but if you plan on driving that car on a regular basis dump that 50 year old ignition tech and get something you can rely on.
Things can only get worse with the quality of aftermarket parts going the way it is.
I swapped to GM HEI over 6 years ago and not had a single ignition issue since.
Or you could even go the OEM module case with the HEI built into it route.

I personally prefer the 8 pin module with weatherpak connectors.

View attachment 1715534357

View attachment 1715534358

View attachment 1715534359

View attachment 1715534360

I'm in the Poo Poo camp. :poke:
 
If you know where to look, good parts are still available for an OEM ignition.

Yeah they are hard to find. You could enlighten us and help your fellow members. It doesn't matter to me as I use points type ignitions and couldn't care less......but I'm in the minority there.
 
To the original poster:
Obviously something is amiss in your electrical system, to be burning through ballast's. I would go through the ignition system components, and see if I could figure out the problem. It could easily be a wiring problem as well. Have a new ecu, coil, ballast on hand. I also wouldn't fall for the gm end all be all bs. No cheby parts will ever touch my Mopars, period. Chrysler designed one of the finest ignition systems, with millions upon millions of proven miles.
 
To the original poster:
Obviously something is amiss in your electrical system, to be burning through ballast's. I would go through the ignition system components, and see if I could figure out the problem. It could easily be a wiring problem as well. Have a new ecu, coil, ballast on hand. I also wouldn't fall for the gm end all be all bs. No cheby parts will ever touch my Mopars, period. Chrysler designed one of the finest ignition systems, with millions upon millions of proven miles.

I don't disagree with that, but not everybody has a good quality Chrysler ignition parts tree in their yard like you seem to.
 
Yeah they are hard to find. You could enlighten us and help your fellow members. It doesn't matter to me as I use points type ignitions and couldn't care less......but I'm in the minority there.

Ebay, swap meets, craigslist, offer up, Google, A body's Only, Napa, On and on.
 
I offered up a really good setup for 383/400. with No bites.

Chrysler Gold Box and dizzy+ All the parts needed. Less than 1k on the dizzy. Just Need an FBO plate to tune it for your desires.

No-one wants these any more apparently!
 
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