Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
Mopar Perf. ''Purple Shaft'' Hydraulic Camshaft KitHave the cam number? Make?
Mopar Perf. ''Purple Shaft'' Hydraulic Camshaft KitHave the cam number? Make?
Have the cam number? Make?
You mean the thermostat? Cause if that’s the case I removed it and still gets over 180Eliminate the bypass (pump to manifold) during break-in. This ensures ALL of the water makes it to the radiator, and you will be able to complete break-in without interruption.
I run mine that way all of the time.
BTW, Big blocks don't have them.
I’ve only let it get to about 195 then I let it idle and it’ll start going back to 180Sorry if I missed it.. how hot is it getting?
Before I messed with the timing it almost hit 210 then I turned it off195 isn't horrible given you're not cruising and getting lots of air flowing through the radiator. Has it gone above that?
210 can be a normal break in heat Spike..Before I messed with the timing it almost hit 210 then I turned it off
Before I messed with the timing it almost hit 210 then I turned it off
ill give it another try today should I keep it at 2000 rpms even when it’s at 210?210 can be a normal break in heat Spike..
220-225 is where I shut it off ..
You might be over thinking it..
Always over 2k with a little bit of up to 2500 and back down every couple of minutes.. slowly...ill give it another try today should I keep it at 2000 rpms even when it’s at 210?
You mean the thermostat? Cause if that’s the case I removed it and still gets over 180
Should I keep the radiator cap off even when the car is at 180 cause when I do that while holding the car at 2000 the coolant just starts to shoot out, not sure if you got to see the video I put before but when you get a chance please lmk if that’s the timing I’m supposed to have the indicator on the harmonic balancer only goes up to 10 So I wasn’t really able to get a 100% accurate reading on thatAlways over 2k with a little bit of up to 2500 and back down every couple of minutes.. slowly...
It can "spike" BUT it should go back down..
If it hit 220 and climbing shut down...
If you can have a home fan in front of the radiator, that helps..
Start it with the cap off and "see" the water circulating... keep refilling even if it overflows...
As heat is trying to spike have a water hose running slowly and carefully run it over the radiator.. some might hit the fan and fly..lol.. don't be afraid.. it's just water it ain't going to hurt nothin...
Setup looks good and I see the plugs and I get what your saying but right now I’m running the car without a thermostat so I have coolant going through at all timesNo, I mean the bypass. 90° hose between the pump and manifold. Put a 1" NP plug in the manifold, and tape the pump for 1/2 NP and plug it. See pic.View attachment 1715565768
Also, that 180° stat is where it begins to open. Get a 160° so that it is fully open by 170°
Setup looks good and I see the plugs and I get what your saying but right now I’m running the car without a thermostat so I have coolant going through at all times
Alright I’ll give that a try thank youUnless you block the bypass, not all of the water will make it to the radiator, it will bypass it. That loop has to be closed. Just saying..
Alright I’ll give that a try thank you
Lol yea that’s my worry I want to eventually put an efi system to be able to run it in the winter before it gets snowyIt takes some work, but well worth it. Big difference. I've been doing that 25 yrs or so.
I just noticed you live in NY... if you drive that in the cold weather, you might have trouble warming it up. Sorry, should have seen that sooner.
I had it at 210 and it was climbing so I just let it idle till it went down but is it supposed to get that hot cause of the fact that I’m just revving without moving?Always over 2k with a little bit of up to 2500 and back down every couple of minutes.. slowly...
It can "spike" BUT it should go back down..
If it hit 220 and climbing shut down...
If you can have a home fan in front of the radiator, that helps..
Start it with the cap off and "see" the water circulating... keep refilling even if it overflows...
As heat is trying to spike have a water hose running slowly and carefully run it over the radiator.. some might hit the fan and fly..lol.. don't be afraid.. it's just water it ain't going to hurt nothin...
So I was able to get it to to around 20 degrees on idle and it was able to idle at 180 without overheating but when I started to rev it at 2000 or over it began to go over 180 and when I stopped and let it idle it’ll go back to 180 is there anyway I can post a video?
View attachment 1715565677
Alright so in layman's terms how do I fix it because honestly I’m 22 years old this is my first carbureted car and also my first engine build and I’ve never messed with trying to rebuild a carburetor in my life so a detailed explanation in laymans terms would be very much appreciatedOk, I’m old (39 in jPar years) but it looks to me like the carb main body is on the base plate backwards.
I haven’t done dope or booze since 01/17/1993 so I know I’m not loaded. Is it a camera thing or what?
Edit: when you get the main body correctly oriented you’ll notice you have the fuel bowls on the wrong end as well.
Alright thank you I’ll drive it around and see if it stays between the 180-210 rangeI run mine at 207 ALL the time. The minimum is 205,lol.
During break-in, yur gonna need air flow, and lots of it.