Overheating issues on a rebuilt 360

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The choke tower usually faces the front, yours is to the rear. I cant think of a good reason anyone would do that on purpose.. but going through the steps to make the throttle linkage work, seems like a PIA.
 
I wonder if the jetting is even close? What about the power valve?
 
Owen Diaz said:
How would the carburetor Be able to start the car and keep the car on if it’s not on right?
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Your fuel injected cars have a sensor in the exhaust. That sends a signal to the fuel injectors to either add more air or add more fuel. That keeps it running pretty much perfectly at all times that's the nice thing about fuel injection. The carburetor generally has a primary setting and a secondary setting. And there set. They can be set a little off and still run relatively well.
So the where the carburetor works is like your toilet. You know how that little float inside the back of the toilet goes down when you flush it and it pulls water in until the float goes all the way to the top. That's how your carburetor works. It has a float in it or a couple floats that keep the fuel to a certain level in the float bowls. Then as air is drawn through by the Pistons going down and drawing are it also draws a little amount of fuel through a jet. Know if you put a bigger jet in it will draw more fuel and make a richer mixture.. and the opposite is true with a smaller jet. The idea is to get the perfect setting for the car that you're putting it on. of course I'm saying it this way because you're asking for layman terms and I want you to have an idea of how things work...
If it runs too lean as in not enough fuel in too much air it can run very hot. kind of like a blowtorch when you turn on the gas it just has a flame but when you add oxygen it turns into something that can cut steel...
It sounds like you started here with just a little bit of a heat Spike from a new cam break in. Careful this form can take you into untold in uncharted territories and have you more confused then you need to be. Now I'm not doubting the guys that are saying your carburetor is backwards or something like that but it seems like he probably just put it back on the way it came off? Let's just tackle one thing at a time here..
 
Total agreement Jpar. One thing at a time. It current starts and idles, get the temp issue covered first.
 
Gearhed73 said:
Total agreement Jpar. One thing at a time. It current starts and idles, get the temp issue covered first.
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The choke should really face the front of the engine. To fix what you have take the carb off the car and pull both fuel bowls. Then remove the screws that hold the main body to the base plate and separate them. Then flip the main body so the choke horn will face forward with the throttle linkage on the drivers side. Bolt the two together and then mount the fuel bowls on each end so the fuel lines are facing the passenger side of the car.
 
j par said:
Your fuel injected cars have a sensor in the exhaust. That sends a signal to the fuel injectors to either add more air or add more fuel. That keeps it running pretty much perfectly at all times that's the nice thing about fuel injection. The carburetor generally has a primary setting and a secondary setting. And there set. They can be set a little off and still run relatively well.
So the where the carburetor works is like your toilet. You know how that little float inside the back of the toilet goes down when you flush it and it pulls water in until the float goes all the way to the top. That's how your carburetor works. It has a float in it or a couple floats that keep the fuel to a certain level in the float bowls. Then as air is drawn through by the Pistons going down and drawing are it also draws a little amount of fuel through a jet. Know if you put a bigger jet in it will draw more fuel and make a richer mixture.. and the opposite is true with a smaller jet. The idea is to get the perfect setting for the car that you're putting it on. of course I'm saying it this way because you're asking for layman terms and I want you to have an idea of how things work...
If it runs too lean as in not enough fuel in too much air it can run very hot. kind of like a blowtorch when you turn on the gas it just has a flame but when you add oxygen it turns into something that can cut steel...
It sounds like you started here with just a little bit of a heat Spike from a new cam break in. Careful this form can take you into untold in uncharted territories and have you more confused then you need to be. Now I'm not doubting the guys that are saying your carburetor is backwards or something like that but it seems like he probably just put it back on the way it came off? Let's just tackle one thing at a time here..
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Appreciate that detailed explanation and 100% agree that I want to fix this issue before moving on to the carburetor problem but do appreciate yellow rose pointing that out I would’ve never noticed if he didn’t
 
Dana67Dart said:
You could always go get a radiator cleaning kit with the"T" that bolts into the heater lines and hooks up to the garden hose, has the yellow funnel thingy that hooks into the radiator cap location, and speed the water out of it.

Also I suspect your electric fans are not cutting it.

Recently I measured the air speed my stock mechanical 7 blade fan makes at about 2000 rpm and it was about 45 to 50 MPH
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I am going to buy that radiator cleaning kit it really helps when bleeding the radiator and about the fan you have any brands you’d recommend cause that and the radiator is something I was planning on upgrading
 
I'm a fan (pun intended) of mechanical fans OEM shroud if you must. Not a fan of thermostatic fans, I'm on the fence on electric fans BUT they have to be sized correctly and the shrouds that typically come with them typically are very restrictive, (a member had a shroud that was blocking about 50% of the air flow)

Just my opinion, others will have their own
 
Alright so I went around the block a few times at speeds between 25 and 35 car still went up to 210 and climbing which made me park it and leave it idling so the temperature can go back down not really sure what else to do besides change the radiator and fan if anyone has any other opinions on what i should try first please feel free to educate
 
Have you tried cruising at higher speeds, 45-50. See if it cools with more air flow and/or levels off?
 
At that point, Id be looking at the radiator. It sounds like the radiator could be clogged.
 
j par said:
Have those fans prove them self in the past? Like keeping a previous motor well into a happy temperature range? I had dual 12-inch fans that really didn't cut the mustard very well and I ended up putting one very good 16-inch fan in and now all is well...
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You remember what cfm was that electric fan? Cause I ordered a cold case Aluminum radiator And I’m about to order the fan shroud with it which is a single 16inch electric fan rated at 2500 cfm
 
Owen Diaz said:
I will try this today and get back to you
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As I recall when you look under fans and under 16 inch fans and puller fans for sure not pusher you want a puller fan but a lot of them are reversible. It was like the first one on the summit catalog or on Summit website under fans and I think it was like $140. You don't want to buy a cheap one because you get what you pay for. Definitely buy for $35 I think it is a adjustable thermostat and don't buy the cheap replacement one because that doesn't give you the bracket. And put it on a relay...
IMG_20200728_105324.jpg
IMG_20200728_105334.jpg
 
j par said:
As I recall when you look under fans and under 16 inch fans and puller fans for sure not pusher you want a puller fan but a lot of them are reversible. It was like the first one on the summit catalog or on Summit website under fans and I think it was like $140. You don't want to buy a cheap one because you get what you pay for. Definitely buy for $35 I think it is a adjustable thermostat and don't buy the cheap replacement one because that doesn't give you the bracket. And put it on a relay...
View attachment 1715569082 View attachment 1715569083
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Did you just get the fan instead of the fan with a fan shroud because the shroud didn’t fit? Cause I only have about 7 inches of space between the radiator support to the water pump pulley and since the cold case radiator I ordered is 3 inches thick and the fan shroud they sell is 6 inches it won’t be able to fit
 
Owen Diaz said:
Did you just get the fan instead of the fan with a fan shroud because the shroud didn’t fit? Cause I only have about 7 inches of space between the radiator support to the water pump pulley and since the cold case radiator I ordered is 3 inches thick and the fan shroud they sell is 6 inches it won’t be able to fit
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You can also look at fans by their thickness. I usually use Summit for a multitude of reasons.. I like electric pans and I don't like Factory fans. It was a personal preference.. I don't like what I call the whirling blade of death...
 
j par said:
You can also look at fans by their thickness. I usually use Summit for a multitude of reasons.. I like electric pans and I don't like Factory fans. It was a personal preference.. I don't like what I call the whirling blade of death...
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I usually use summit so I’ll check, any other way I can keep put the fan on the radiator without using zip ties?
 
Owen Diaz said:
I usually use summit so I’ll check, any other way I can keep put the fan on the radiator without using zip ties?
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Well I'm sure you could make some kind of bracket if you wanted to but the standard is to use not technically zip ties but they poke through the radiator and like a zip tie kind of zip on...
 
They look like this... put a washer on each side and poke it through the radiator and through the fan hold down a little foam piece between them...
Screenshot_20200801-203555.png
 
Owen Diaz said:
Would that come with fan or would I have to get that separately?
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It should say in the description with Summit... But if worst case scenario came you can get them at the parts store for about 7 bucks or order them...
 
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