j par
Well-hung Member
Then you turned it the wrong way..lol..
Overheating issues on a rebuilt 360
- Thread starter Owen Diaz
- Start date
-
j par
Well-hung Member
Sounds like you retarded it ...
j par
Well-hung Member
You have to turn it very slowly...
A little is a lot..
A little is a lot..
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
Might have to give that one a try cause I was looking at the cold case radiators and they’ll run me about 360
My build is obviously a 360 with Keith black .40 over pistons with eagle rods, 292 duration on the cam with .508 lift J heads
3800 stall converter, reverse manual valve body, 4.10 gears it was built for the 1/4 mile I’m slowly trying to bring it back to a street car
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
I’ll give it another try today
j par
Well-hung Member
Get rid of the 410's.. 355 for the street..
Duration@50??..
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
When you say to the left you mean counter clockwise right?
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
I plan on doing that especially with the 3 speed 904 I can barely go on the highway with that and the duration is 292
j par
Well-hung Member
Just saying left and right or counterclockwise or clockwise ain't cutting it... put it back where it was get it running again and then slowly turn it each way to get the maximum rpm... Go to Harbor Freight and buy a $32 timing light..make sure you read the instructions carefully on how to use it. And use it...
Do some research on your timing and how to set it.. the entire tune of your car depends on it...
j par
Well-hung Member
If your cam is aftermarket (and it is) stock timing settings are out the window...
It will likely want 18-20° at idle and 34-36° @ 3000rpm.. (or all in) maximum advance...
It will likely want 18-20° at idle and 34-36° @ 3000rpm.. (or all in) maximum advance...
j par
Well-hung Member
292 is advertised duration...
Which has not much to do with freeway speed.. duration@50????...
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
Alright I’ll update you
yea so then timing is definitely an issue cause I was going off stock timing settings
Got it, I thought you said WP was new I reread and see it is basically new as in it is what PO had on it.
How sure are you that you got all the air out of the block, filled a 96 318 and it ran really hot. The after it cooled to room temp I was able to add almost a gallon more fluid.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Before the Break-in;
> pressure test the crankcase to 3psi max, looking for oil leaks and escaping air.
> pressure test your fuel system to 5 or 6 psi
> pressure test your cooling system to 10 psi
> make sure the PCV is hooked up, and all non-used vacuum ports are plugged.
> make sure the pump and fan are correctly rotating for your application
> make sure the lower rad hose cannot be sucked flat
> make sure water runs out the bottom of the rad as fast as you pour it in, or close to it.
> find your IR gun; Don't got one?, Go get one
>and get your fire-extinguisher at the ready, not right next to the car dummy! If the car catches fire, you'll be back-pedaling in a hurry,lol and there may not be an opportunity to retrieve the thing. I usually get a helper to handle that.
>Install a restrictor washer in the stat house, so you don't have to deal with possible bad-stat issues.
>Run your garden hose into the top of the rad, and let it piss out the drain some,but at a slower rate than the fill rate to keep the rad full, so the engine has an unlimited supply of same-temp water.Do not get water on the fanbelt.
>Make sure the Vcan is functional, and hooked up, in a few seconds your engine is gonna need it
At Go-time;
> push the car outside
> know where your extinguisher is!
>Start it up, get the revs up, then just pull on the v-can until the revs stop climbing; leave the timing lite in the tool box! I mean it!
During the break in;
start the timer,lol
Leave the hood open,
Monitor for fluid leaks, I mean gas and oil,lol.
Monitor the engine temp with the stinking IR gun.
After a few minutes, push the Vcan back towards the firewall; when the rpm begins to fall stop and leave it there for the duration.
Do not get water on the fan-belt! it will slip and maybe it won't make noise.
Relax, everything will be all right.
Afterwards;
kick the fast-idle off or slow the engine down some, under 1000, then push the V-can back to lose 200ish
Take a breath.
Close the petcock,fill the rad,and shut off the water.
Take a breath
Now you can put the timing lite on her and set her to 14* with the V-can disconnected. Then set the idle speed to 750 minimum, and twiddle the mixture screws as may be required.
Take a breath.
With your IR gun, monitor the temp for a few minutes,as the rad heats up, checking for leaks and such while waiting.
Post break in
check the oil.
Set the transfer slot exposure
Millar-time.
If you have problems;
If you have a fuel leak; shut it off! Do not try to fix a fuel leak on a running engine.
If you have water leakage other than the petcock: as long as it ain't going into the engine or,flooding the fan, or getting on the belt; forgetabout it for now
If you have oil leakage, monitor it.
If the engine starts to blow smoke, something is wrong.
If the smoke is blue;
Pop the PCV outta the valve cover and let it dangle there.If after a minute or so the smoke don't quit, something else is wrong. You may have pumped the muffler full of oil, in which case, continue running it. But with open headers, continued smoke could be trouble, shut it off and think about it.
If the smoke is white;
shut it of,your engine is sucking water and needs to come apart.
If the smoke is black:
Shut it off and fix the carb.
It's best not to interrupt the break-in, but better not to burn the thing down. So if you gotta interrupt, just do it.
If the temperature climbs;
water in open air boils at 212 at sealevel. This engine has no stat and the rad is open. The water-temperature is governed by the ability of the fan to pull air thru the rad, and by your cold water running into the rad, and by the waterpump sending the water round and round. if the temp is rising;something is wrong, and you only have a few possibilities; either.
1) the waterpump is not circulating, or is spinning backwards,lol; or
2) the fan is not pulling air thru the rad, or
3) there is not sufficient water in the rad, or
4) the the water in the rad is not moving fast enough from top to bottom
5) something is wrong inside the engine
Do not wait for the water to boil before you shut it off.
IDK; I think I got it all
> pressure test the crankcase to 3psi max, looking for oil leaks and escaping air.
> pressure test your fuel system to 5 or 6 psi
> pressure test your cooling system to 10 psi
> make sure the PCV is hooked up, and all non-used vacuum ports are plugged.
> make sure the pump and fan are correctly rotating for your application
> make sure the lower rad hose cannot be sucked flat
> make sure water runs out the bottom of the rad as fast as you pour it in, or close to it.
> find your IR gun; Don't got one?, Go get one
>and get your fire-extinguisher at the ready, not right next to the car dummy! If the car catches fire, you'll be back-pedaling in a hurry,lol and there may not be an opportunity to retrieve the thing. I usually get a helper to handle that.
>Install a restrictor washer in the stat house, so you don't have to deal with possible bad-stat issues.
>Run your garden hose into the top of the rad, and let it piss out the drain some,but at a slower rate than the fill rate to keep the rad full, so the engine has an unlimited supply of same-temp water.Do not get water on the fanbelt.
>Make sure the Vcan is functional, and hooked up, in a few seconds your engine is gonna need it
At Go-time;
> push the car outside
> know where your extinguisher is!
>Start it up, get the revs up, then just pull on the v-can until the revs stop climbing; leave the timing lite in the tool box! I mean it!
During the break in;
start the timer,lol
Leave the hood open,
Monitor for fluid leaks, I mean gas and oil,lol.
Monitor the engine temp with the stinking IR gun.
After a few minutes, push the Vcan back towards the firewall; when the rpm begins to fall stop and leave it there for the duration.
Do not get water on the fan-belt! it will slip and maybe it won't make noise.
Relax, everything will be all right.
Afterwards;
kick the fast-idle off or slow the engine down some, under 1000, then push the V-can back to lose 200ish
Take a breath.
Close the petcock,fill the rad,and shut off the water.
Take a breath
Now you can put the timing lite on her and set her to 14* with the V-can disconnected. Then set the idle speed to 750 minimum, and twiddle the mixture screws as may be required.
Take a breath.
With your IR gun, monitor the temp for a few minutes,as the rad heats up, checking for leaks and such while waiting.
Post break in
check the oil.
Set the transfer slot exposure
Millar-time.
If you have problems;
If you have a fuel leak; shut it off! Do not try to fix a fuel leak on a running engine.
If you have water leakage other than the petcock: as long as it ain't going into the engine or,flooding the fan, or getting on the belt; forgetabout it for now
If you have oil leakage, monitor it.
If the engine starts to blow smoke, something is wrong.
If the smoke is blue;
Pop the PCV outta the valve cover and let it dangle there.If after a minute or so the smoke don't quit, something else is wrong. You may have pumped the muffler full of oil, in which case, continue running it. But with open headers, continued smoke could be trouble, shut it off and think about it.
If the smoke is white;
shut it of,your engine is sucking water and needs to come apart.
If the smoke is black:
Shut it off and fix the carb.
It's best not to interrupt the break-in, but better not to burn the thing down. So if you gotta interrupt, just do it.
If the temperature climbs;
water in open air boils at 212 at sealevel. This engine has no stat and the rad is open. The water-temperature is governed by the ability of the fan to pull air thru the rad, and by your cold water running into the rad, and by the waterpump sending the water round and round. if the temp is rising;something is wrong, and you only have a few possibilities; either.
1) the waterpump is not circulating, or is spinning backwards,lol; or
2) the fan is not pulling air thru the rad, or
3) there is not sufficient water in the rad, or
4) the the water in the rad is not moving fast enough from top to bottom
5) something is wrong inside the engine
Do not wait for the water to boil before you shut it off.
IDK; I think I got it all
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
So I was able to get it to to around 20 degrees on idle and it was able to idle at 180 without overheating but when I started to rev it at 2000 or over it began to go over 180 and when I stopped and let it idle it’ll go back to 180 is there anyway I can post a video?
If you have a Google account, you can create a link with Google photos and share the link.
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
Please let me know if you guys can see those pictures and videos
Its probably in the realm of 248°..
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
How would I be able to find that out so I can give him an exact number
Eliminate the bypass (pump to manifold) during break-in. This ensures ALL of the water makes it to the radiator, and you will be able to complete break-in without interruption.
I run mine that way all of the time.
BTW, Big blocks don't have them.
Have the cam number? Make?
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