Looking for a race quality non fluid dampener

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The innovators west dampers can also be bought with magnets for a crank trigger built in. If I ever have mine rebuilt I’ll have the front changed so I can run a crank trigger.

Both aftermarket dampers I’ve bought came with undersized hubs and had to be honed to fit. It’s no big deal, just something to be aware of.
Those are the best money can buy and
100% USA made .

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WHy non-fluid? Just curious


I think Pittsburghracer said it. When they first came out no one was honing the damper to fit. When running they would split at the key way. Also when they are that tight (or too loose) they don’t absorb harmonics like they were designed to. Also, some guys think the damper is on the front of the crank to make balance corrections on it. So on a crank balancer the rpm is usually too low to center the inertia ring and it looks like it’s always out of balance. I know the the guy who owns Scat cranks doesn’t care for the ATI damper. He doesn’t like the FD either but the reasons are different.
 
I've run an FD for 20 years, make over 600hp and spin to 7K. I'm sure people have different experiences though.
 
Whatever you choose, don’t skimp based on price. Don’t ask me how I know...

For me, it will always be ATI or nothing.
Skimp, lol yep that's why I'm buying a new one. I bought 440 source fluid damper. My buddy is seeing a rash of bad fluid dampers.
 
Well I guess the only good thing I can say about me buying parts twice is I'm nearing a complete 451 stroker as well for my 99 r/t Dakota (street)
 
Bought ati super damper. Got a deal through work & it was the most recommended.
Thanks guys!
 
Bought ati super damper. Got a deal through work & it was the most recommended.
Thanks guys!


Smart man. If for any reason it needs shimmed out (especially for big block guys) Summit Racing sells and stocks the shim to do so. Also the proper 40T socket for the bolts. (I think it’s a 40T). I know it’s special.
 
Smart man. If for any reason it needs shimmed out (especially for big block guys) Summit Racing sells and stocks the shim to do so. Also the proper 40T socket for the bolts. (I think it’s a 40T). I know it’s special.
Cool, I appreciate the extra info
 
I have run the Romac balancer on both Magnum & LA motors for many years, hitting 7100-7200 RPM occasionally with no problems.
 
I have run the Romac balancer on both Magnum & LA motors for many years, hitting 7100-7200 RPM occasionally with no problems.
I would have choose it as well, just was able to get a deal on ati
 
I think Pittsburghracer said it. When they first came out no one was honing the damper to fit. When running they would split at the key way. Also when they are that tight (or too loose) they don’t absorb harmonics like they were designed to. Also, some guys think the damper is on the front of the crank to make balance corrections on it. So on a crank balancer the rpm is usually too low to center the inertia ring and it looks like it’s always out of balance. I know the the guy who owns Scat cranks doesn’t care for the ATI damper. He doesn’t like the FD either but the reasons are different.
He may not like the ATI damper for reasons unbeknownst to me because I can tell you the vast majority of big power engine run them and ATI is a lot higher up the quality food chain than Scat is, LOL
 
He may not like the ATI damper for reasons unbeknownst to me because I can tell you the vast majority of big power engine run them and ATI is a lot higher up the quality food chain than Scat is, LOL
He mentioned in 1 post he runs ati on most of his race stuff
 
He may not like the ATI damper for reasons unbeknownst to me because I can tell you the vast majority of big power engine run them and ATI is a lot higher up the quality food chain than Scat is, LOL


He doesn’t like them because he says since it’s a 2 piece damper that isn’t...I can’t think of the word he used but it’s how the OE dampers are made with the hub and the ring actually fused together. Any way, he says you can see with test equipment the outer shell getting off center to the hub because they are not fused together. I have never seen it myself, but the guy says he’s seen it. That’s why he says to run a damper that is put together like an OE damper. And I disagree with that. There is too much data out there that an OE style damper has way too narrow a tuning range and any change made to any part of the crank, rods, pistons, pins, rings...any thing that is related to the crank changes what frequency needs to be controlled. No rubber damper can do that. I know they are everywhere at the track, but any track is a monkey see, monkey do situation.
 
What ever dampner you go with just make sure its not shiny ! Ever try to see timing marks in a mirror ? Urghhh...
 
I think Pittsburghracer said it. When they first came out no one was honing the damper to fit. When running they would split at the key way. Also when they are that tight (or too loose) they don’t absorb harmonics like they were designed to. Also, some guys think the damper is on the front of the crank to make balance corrections on it. So on a crank balancer the rpm is usually too low to center the inertia ring and it looks like it’s always out of balance. I know the the guy who owns Scat cranks doesn’t care for the ATI damper. He doesn’t like the FD either but the reasons are different.


Wasn’t me.
 
He doesn’t like them because he says since it’s a 2 piece damper that isn’t...I can’t think of the word he used but it’s how the OE dampers are made with the hub and the ring actually fused together. Any way, he says you can see with test equipment the outer shell getting off center to the hub because they are not fused together. I have never seen it myself, but the guy says he’s seen it. That’s why he says to run a damper that is put together like an OE damper. And I disagree with that. There is too much data out there that an OE style damper has way too narrow a tuning range and any change made to any part of the crank, rods, pistons, pins, rings...any thing that is related to the crank changes what frequency needs to be controlled. No rubber damper can do that. I know they are everywhere at the track, but any track is a monkey see, monkey do situation.
I can assure you when your talking 900,1000,1100 hp or more type engines and that's just N/A it's not quite monkey see monkey do it's more this is what has been proven to work without issue and or failure, guys at that level don't need to be experimenting and risk expensive damage.
 
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